lug not comming loose. wat's next
My lug is crossthreaded and now it doesn't want to come out. The lug seems to turn but quickly tighten up when I turned it further ccw.
Should I just shear it off or drill it out?
I'm worrying about stripping the splines in the hub if shearing it off.
Why type of bit is good for drilling into lugs? They are pretty hard...
Modified by david90 at 4:42 AM 6/29/2004
Should I just shear it off or drill it out?
I'm worrying about stripping the splines in the hub if shearing it off.
Why type of bit is good for drilling into lugs? They are pretty hard...
Modified by david90 at 4:42 AM 6/29/2004
Grab up your ingersoll rand 2131 impact and it will snap the stud right off.
If you give any clue as to what year accord you have someone might be able to give you info to replace the lug stud.
If you give any clue as to what year accord you have someone might be able to give you info to replace the lug stud.
good call.........being destructive is bad especially if its gonna make you have to replace parts later......try to lube it up first and see if it moves.......if not.....well......then when all else fails.....beat it with a hammer
even if you do get the lug off that stud needs to be replaced cuz if you try and put a new lug on that stripped stud its going to happen all over again
Replacing that lug isn't very hard. First you're gonna have to loosen up the axle nut. Do it while its on the ground or else you'll have a real hard time turning it in the air. A six foot pry bar would help. After you have the nut off jack up the car and remove the brake caliper bracket. No need to remove the caliper itself, it'll come off with the bracket. Just set it off to the side on the sway bar. (Don't let it just hang suspended by the hose!). Loosen up the four bolts holding the rotor to the hub, be careful not to strip them. Remove the nut and cotter pin on the lower ball joint and find yourself a nice and heavy hammer. You can get a ball joint fork from an auto parts store, but I never use them, they just tear up the boot. Anyway, bang the steering knuckle a few times next to the ball joint, don't hit the balljoint. That should loosen it up a little. You should be able to remove it by either prying at it between the hub and the knuckle or just keep hitting it. It may be frustrating at first, but it'll come off. After you have that off you have to have a slide hammer tool to remove the piece that holds the lugs. Auto part stores should rent them out. Once you have it off you can just place it on a piece of wood and hammer the old one out and hammer the new one in. Then just put everything back together making sure its nice and tight. You should probably put some loctite on the bolts. Hope this helped, good luck!
**Couldn't reply because of the 24 hr 5 post limit, so I'll just add it here. You can use the slide hammer tool in reverse to pound it back in.
Modified by h22acrd at 8:41 PM 7/2/2004
**Couldn't reply because of the 24 hr 5 post limit, so I'll just add it here. You can use the slide hammer tool in reverse to pound it back in.
Modified by h22acrd at 8:41 PM 7/2/2004
If i'm required to use a slide hammer to remove the hub which holds the studs in, how am I going to put it back together? Hard coming out so will it be hard to put in back into the knuckle?
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It's a trapped rotor, you don't have to pull the bearing. drive the old stud stub in, till it's loose, remove the brake caliper, remove the 4-14 mm bolts holding the rotor to the hub. Slip the new stud in, use an oversized nut as a spacer, then the new lug nut to pull the stud into place.
didn't realize you could just slide it out like that. wish i'd known that earlier, even though it only takes about half an hour my way. he means that the rotor can't be removed without taking the hub off because its bolted to it, but if you loosen the bolts it'll just be loose between the hub and the knuckle.
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