95 honda accord 58mph bouncing
my 95 honda accord bounces only at 56-59 mph, below 56 smooth ride above 59 smooth ride. the bounce appears to be coming from the front of the car. alignment checked ok, wheels were balanced and new front axles put in...what could it be?
They have a new type balance machine that puts pressure on the tire, the advantage is it helps to find lumpy tires. Roadforce is 1 brandname. It won't find loose lugnuts though.
motor mounts are fine, but the struts need replacing, i was assured that the struts would not cause that problem..it is the specific speed that stumps the mechanics..only happens in that small range of speed...
What do you mean by bounce?
I have seen some vibration on other cars caused by driveshafts, axles and such. But bouncing???? Are you feeling it in the steering wheel or something?
fs
I have seen some vibration on other cars caused by driveshafts, axles and such. But bouncing???? Are you feeling it in the steering wheel or something?
fs
HEAVY VIBRATING IN THE FRONT YES IT IS FELT IN THE STEERING WHEEL AND THE RIDE IS NOT SMOOTH BETWEEN 56 + 59 MPH. BOTH FIRESTONE AND HONDA ARE CLUELESS WHAT THIS IS.
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had the struts replaced and the vibration is ten times better, but no completely gone. talked to honda tech at two different honda's dealerships..they did not know why..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by groucho »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HEAVY VIBRATING IN THE FRONT YES IT IS FELT IN THE STEERING WHEEL AND THE RIDE IS NOT SMOOTH BETWEEN 56 + 59 MPH. BOTH FIRESTONE AND HONDA ARE CLUELESS WHAT THIS IS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
FYI:
don't use all caps, it seems like your yelling (and you have no need to).
FYI:
don't use all caps, it seems like your yelling (and you have no need to).
yes i switch the front tires to the back and the back to the front. No change..
I replaced the struts and most of the vibration is gone, about 85% gone. but the small vibration left has me and firestone and the local honda dealer stumped.
I replaced the struts and most of the vibration is gone, about 85% gone. but the small vibration left has me and firestone and the local honda dealer stumped.
it is it possible you have used fix a flat????? i had the same problem and i tried everything and it turned out to be that i used fix a flat and some how thats what the problem was it all clummped together causing the tire it act up got a new tire and no problem since!!!!
I actually have the exact same problem on my 95 LX Accord. There is a strong vibration between about 55-60 mph. (nothing above, nothing below) My car is lowered 1.25" with an Eibach camber kit and 16" wheels. I figured it had to do with lowering the car and the balance between off. I have had my tires balanced and alignment done at a proper shop, so I guess that couldnt be it.
When I get some time I will work on the struts and let you know how it goes.
When I get some time I will work on the struts and let you know how it goes.
I have stock strut..new...not lower etc..but the shimmy decreased alot when I replaced the strut about 90 percent of the shimmy went away. but still between 55 and 60...
I have the same issue.
this is what I have done so far:
Struts ($84)
coil springs (certified used $20)
tie rods ($26)
camber set (freebie friend had did not like gave to me never installed)
energy suspension kit Hyperflex ($71 w/sway bar set front and rear $105 total)
At this point it is still there. Not as bad but still there. Its a combo thing. One part no, when it happens that means that there are many parts that are bad. Just finding the right ones is a pain in the but. So far I have stuck about $260 into this. And that includes some of the parts still waiting to be installed.
This is next:
Wheel bearings ($32)
ball joints (uppers too if I can find someone that has the part number and company name for these as not need the upper control arm as I have already replaced the camber sets on these) ($26 for lowers front)
energy suspention motor mount incert ($15)
inner tie rods ($26)
I am aslo going after the belts (all four) and I found that my oil seal is shot so going to do just a full lower gasket set (found for $41 bucks).
This is all on a <U>1991 Honda Accord EX F22A4 2DR 5spd</U>
this is what I have done so far:
Struts ($84)
coil springs (certified used $20)
tie rods ($26)
camber set (freebie friend had did not like gave to me never installed)
energy suspension kit Hyperflex ($71 w/sway bar set front and rear $105 total)
At this point it is still there. Not as bad but still there. Its a combo thing. One part no, when it happens that means that there are many parts that are bad. Just finding the right ones is a pain in the but. So far I have stuck about $260 into this. And that includes some of the parts still waiting to be installed.
This is next:
Wheel bearings ($32)
ball joints (uppers too if I can find someone that has the part number and company name for these as not need the upper control arm as I have already replaced the camber sets on these) ($26 for lowers front)
energy suspention motor mount incert ($15)
inner tie rods ($26)
I am aslo going after the belts (all four) and I found that my oil seal is shot so going to do just a full lower gasket set (found for $41 bucks).
This is all on a <U>1991 Honda Accord EX F22A4 2DR 5spd</U>
I have the exact same problem on my 95 EX coupe. On smooth highways between the speeds of 59 and 65 i get a rediculous vibration in the front end. Its not like its going to fall apart but its very annoying. I had the same problem on my 90 Maxima at speeds of 72 to 80. I have asked many people about this and there only answers are always that the wheels need balanced. I find this untrue because I have had wheels balanced many times and it has not fixed the problem. I have also heard that it could be bad belts in the tires. (again i thought balancing would have noted this problem) I would say jack the front end up and support everything very securely and away from the wheels. Run the car and get the wheels up to the speed of the problem and see if u notice the vibration. Then take the wheels off and try it with just the rotars spinning. See if you can pin point it from that. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK though! be careful.
If anyone comes up with any answers also let me know...
If anyone comes up with any answers also let me know...
one thing most people are forgetting about is the blancer shaft.
If the belt is worn or out of adjustment it can cause the same issue at certin speeds.
Seeing as I don't want to drive the hour it takes to the closest Honda dealership to ask. I am just working on rebuilding my front end and other issues with the motor that could be causing it.
Best thing to do is to check with people that have fixed this problem already. So far no one seems to have just one answer for it.
And seeing as I don't want to wait until one shows up, I am knocking out all the causes.
everthing from,
struts (normally cause wheel hop at highway speeds) and tires (have them spun and checked off the car)
coil springs (bent or warped caused by bad struts)
ball joints (upper and lower)
Tie rods (inner and outer)
wheel bearings
Rotors
sway bar bushings (bushings and links using Energy suspension hyperflex kit)
Torsion bars
Timing belt
balancer shaft belt
pully's for those belts
Axel shafts
and finally an alignment cause getting the factory specs after replacing the inner and outer tie rods is close to impossible.
This all if you can do most of it yourself, parts so far are $400 guessing without adding it all up.
If had to send this in for work, then OUCH looking at about $2000 in labor cost with the way they love to RIP for an import at about $85 an hour.
If the belt is worn or out of adjustment it can cause the same issue at certin speeds.
Seeing as I don't want to drive the hour it takes to the closest Honda dealership to ask. I am just working on rebuilding my front end and other issues with the motor that could be causing it.
Best thing to do is to check with people that have fixed this problem already. So far no one seems to have just one answer for it.
And seeing as I don't want to wait until one shows up, I am knocking out all the causes.
everthing from,
struts (normally cause wheel hop at highway speeds) and tires (have them spun and checked off the car)
coil springs (bent or warped caused by bad struts)
ball joints (upper and lower)
Tie rods (inner and outer)
wheel bearings
Rotors
sway bar bushings (bushings and links using Energy suspension hyperflex kit)
Torsion bars
Timing belt
balancer shaft belt
pully's for those belts
Axel shafts
and finally an alignment cause getting the factory specs after replacing the inner and outer tie rods is close to impossible.
This all if you can do most of it yourself, parts so far are $400 guessing without adding it all up.
If had to send this in for work, then OUCH looking at about $2000 in labor cost with the way they love to RIP for an import at about $85 an hour.
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hb_guy
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Dec 12, 2007 03:18 PM





