What is the differance in the weight of the engines? Also what is the differance in swapping the two in an 91 Si

Thanx

 

I think the difference is 60lbs. You need different mounts.

 

Is there a big differance in the swap other the mounts and axels?

H22 200 whp 161 lb-ft torque 7200 redline
B16a SiR2 170whp 116 lb-ft 8200 redline

I am looking to change engines and run my car in SM next year so I'm leaning towards the H22.

What do you guys think?


Modified by vbspec at 10:52 PM 6/28/2004

 

The HP is measured @ the crank not the wheels...so b16 is going to give you about 150-158 @ the wheels. b16 stops making power at about 7.5k

H22 will give 145-150 or so @ the wheels but you have a much better torque curve right up to the 7.2k rev limit.

 

sir2 all da way!

 

I forgot to mention.... I went with the sir 2 myself.... H22 is a bitch to squeeze in but the sir 2 is also a obd1 engine so plan accordingly... If you need any help just PM me....

 

If you got the $ - why not just go for the B18c? Better torque than the B16 and also a lot less of a beaaatch to install compared to the H22.

 

i have b16a2 from a 99 civic si in my 91hf bought it for $1500 complete....40k im using 0obd chipped. and its obd2 motor for emission i guess

 

H22 145-150 to the wheels????? WTF! where do you get your info. Torque is the application of horsepower to the wheels. So let's think.......if the 22 has an assload more torque, than it has more power to the wheels. B16sir2 is at about 143 to the wheels stock, h22 is about 165-168 to the wheels, both motors are a good choice, you can't go wrong either way, but take it from people who have both swaps done. We have a b16sir2 in a 92 hatch that runs 14.6 with intake and header, exhaust at 3700ft elevation, and we have a 90 hatch with an h22 that runs 13.9 stock no bolt ons, but both motors are the ****. H22 is a harder swap,but you got torque, and trust me , it never falls on its face between shifts. Your choice, they're both good!

 

horsepower is torque over time. so with a higher rev limit the b16 could have a higher PEAK hp, but lower sustained.

h22a is a big pain to install. dont forget the h22 trans is CABLE shifted not a linkage.

i say go the best of both worlds, b18c1.

 

Yup if you have the money B18C5.

 

Man do you know how many H22 swaps ive been apart of @ least 5.... Just put the stock H22 on the dyno....and you will know what im talking about.... we have lined these two swaps up countless times and the only place the h22 out performs the sir 2 is 1st and 5 gears.... now dont get me wrong if i was just going to bulid a 1/4 mile swap then i would go with the h22 but since i like twisties and every day driving i dont appriceate the understeer that the hatches encounter as a daily driver. you can drop a sir 2 in w/ a 50 shot if you really need to make up for the torque and still have a fat wallet. while the h22 will have you broke and borrowing gas money ....LOL its all good bro.... out here damn near everyone has some sort of swap so you tend to get a first hand knowledge of various setups....
and if you shift so that your power band stays in vtec then it wont fall on its face.... but depending on your application both swaps are very good....


Modified by paybac4223 at 8:59 AM 6/30/2004

 

True on the twisties, but where I'm at , we just don't have anywhere to do road race **** like that. We're all 1/4 mile here. We just put an H22a in a 90 hatch ourselves, and as far as 1/4 mile goes, the sir2 just doesn't cut it. Me and my friend could do 4th gen h22 swaps like nothing now, and trust me, it's worth it. We've been doing this **** for about 6 years now, and as far as swaps go, not a problem. Third gear is the strongest gear of the H22. Im sorry but the sir2 just can't hang unless you put quite a few mods on it, and a bone stock H22. We have both, we know! We got sir x 2, sir2, 18c1, 18c x 2(jdm), ls/vtec, H22....list goes on! Im not arguing with you bro, just stating ****! Unitl you do an H22 , it is hard justifying doing one, ya know!

 

I actually wanted to do an H22 swap into my rex, bu everyone says its so hard.

How hard is it actually? Didnt Hasprt release a mount kit for the h22 into an ef?

What about this cable tranny ****? I dont know anything about that at all

Isnt a h22 cheaper then the b16 to?

Have an estimate on how much it would cost to get it into my car?

 

Here's the whole thing about it, as long as you can weld it's pretty easy. We made our own mounts, are own crossmember. The clutch conversion can be done with a prelude clutch master cylinder welded reverse behind the clutch pedal with new lines. With motor, it cost us about 2900.00. Not bad for 13 second bone stock car.

 

we're doing another one as we speak!

 

The cable transmission issue is so easy!

Since they're cable, you can route them pretty much anywhere you want. Just like a cable clutch line.

This means you can also mount the shifter base wherever you want (as long as you're leaving enough slack).

I also love the way the cable tranny feels compared to the rods. It feels so much smoother and more linear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VeeTekCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The clutch conversion can be done with a prelude clutch master cylinder welded reverse behind the clutch pedal with new lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have any pics of this? Is it done using the stock cable transmission pedal assmebly?

And lastly, does the stock dash fit back over it properly?

 

You don't use the cable at all! you'll disconnect it from the pedal. The master cylinder is not that big. Get one without a resevoir attached to it though. The push rod will be attached to the top of the pedal so it can be pushed in when you step on the clutch. Just run hydraulic lines up to the slave cylinder and a hose to the clutch resevoir. Bada Bing!

 

My boy is going to do an h22 swap into his EF i'll try to post a writeup with full pics.... its not going to happen until late aug-sep but i will make a write up on it....

 

We have another one that uses both cable and hydro. It works on a lever type system that a friend of mine thought up. It's held up like a champ too. Took it to the track and ran about 8 or 9 passes and it was just fine!

 

i would like to see pics of the H22 setup in the 4G

 

I'll see if i can post the pics on here tonight. Everytime i try, i have problems doing it. Damn computer!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VeeTekCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't use the cable at all! you'll disconnect it from the pedal. The master cylinder is not that big. Get one without a resevoir attached to it though. The push rod will be attached to the top of the pedal so it can be pushed in when you step on the clutch. Just run hydraulic lines up to the slave cylinder and a hose to the clutch resevoir. Bada Bing!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was asking if you used the stock pedal assembly.

I didn't know there were any clutch master cylinders without a resevoir attached to it...what cars do these come from, and what all do I need? Do you mount the resevoir externally? Or is there not one at all?

I think a picture would just explain it all to me. For some reason I'm having a tough time getting a mental picture.

I'm really interested in doing this!

Have you had any issues with firewall flex?

TIA!

 

Putting that engine in your ef is going to kill it handling wise. And I think the H22 is a little more then 60lbs compared to a b-series. Your car is going to push like crazy in the front believe me. I"m in SM right now and I have a 88std model with a b16 and it still pushes in the front, ever so slightly with my 225/45/13 hoosiers. And my suspension isn't crap so its not because of that its because the b16 weighs some 70-80 more then the d-series.
If you were into drag racing the h22 would be fine but not for turning my friend. You will regret it when you do it. Even trying to park that car is going to be a PIA. You never want more weight over the front wheels specially for autox weight is the enemy. And we need everything we have to our advantage to chase down those damn M3's.