91 CRX HF, rebuilding suspension, OEM, ES, prothane or combo bushings?
After a lot of investigation, I am in the process of rebuilding the suspension on this car. I will use ground control coil-overs and koni yellows. I will NOT race or autocross. This is a street car only. I would like the suspension to be 'sport'. That is firm but not uncomfortable.
I have identified and priced OEM, prothane, and ES bushings. I have purchased a 20 ton press amongst other things. I will be ordering shocks and springs on Monday. Bushings will come soon after once I decide.
I have not decided what to do engine wise with this car. I have no experience with high power front wheel drive. I have considered everything up to a $12k crate motor from payn (2 liter dart block and head-.. called the 'beast'). I do not want to spend a bunch of money and end up with a car that is a pain to drive because of torque steer and/or wheel spin. But anyway, the suspension should be able to handle the heavier motor depending on what way I go.
BTW.. this is a bone stock 91 that I bought new in 91. Is pretty clean. I took a hard look at the underneath this weekend and it is pretty clean (no rust in Georgia). I has about 110k miles. I have used it as a second car for most of its life.
I may decide to basically restore the body and interior to 'as-new' and keep the HF motor. Gets about 45 mpg on regular. I have a WRX as a primary car right now.
I have identified and priced OEM, prothane, and ES bushings. I have purchased a 20 ton press amongst other things. I will be ordering shocks and springs on Monday. Bushings will come soon after once I decide.
I have not decided what to do engine wise with this car. I have no experience with high power front wheel drive. I have considered everything up to a $12k crate motor from payn (2 liter dart block and head-.. called the 'beast'). I do not want to spend a bunch of money and end up with a car that is a pain to drive because of torque steer and/or wheel spin. But anyway, the suspension should be able to handle the heavier motor depending on what way I go.
BTW.. this is a bone stock 91 that I bought new in 91. Is pretty clean. I took a hard look at the underneath this weekend and it is pretty clean (no rust in Georgia). I has about 110k miles. I have used it as a second car for most of its life.
I may decide to basically restore the body and interior to 'as-new' and keep the HF motor. Gets about 45 mpg on regular. I have a WRX as a primary car right now.
ok when i rebuilt my suspension, i used all honda oem bushings, actually i bought new rear lcas from honda so i didnt have to press them in, and i bought an oem rear trailing arm bushing...i have loved it ever since...
im going to be buying new honda rear compensator arms as well...
im going to be buying new honda rear compensator arms as well...
>>>a z6 w/ obd-1 swap would be a decent setup for a daily driver. wouldnt' cost >>>much either.
It's not the cost so much as its the payoff. Would drive me nuts to pay 12k for the dart beast that payn makes and then have it basically suk because the wheels spin and/or there is too much torque steer.
However, if it would give me Z06 beating performance and be a pleasure to drive too.. I would seriously consider buying it.
IF.. IF.. I had unlimited funds, I would have a custom turbo Dart block with .. say Hondata engine management and a custom 5 speed posi with the last gear being real tall for interstate cruising...
But I am seriously considering buying a C6 Z06 when it comes out in 2005 as a 2006 model and so I will prolly conserve my funds.... and clean the CRX up and rebuild older parts and continue to use it as a second car...
But who knows.
It's not the cost so much as its the payoff. Would drive me nuts to pay 12k for the dart beast that payn makes and then have it basically suk because the wheels spin and/or there is too much torque steer.
However, if it would give me Z06 beating performance and be a pleasure to drive too.. I would seriously consider buying it.
IF.. IF.. I had unlimited funds, I would have a custom turbo Dart block with .. say Hondata engine management and a custom 5 speed posi with the last gear being real tall for interstate cruising...
But I am seriously considering buying a C6 Z06 when it comes out in 2005 as a 2006 model and so I will prolly conserve my funds.... and clean the CRX up and rebuild older parts and continue to use it as a second car...
But who knows.
Just buy the master kit and since you said your not into autox or drag racing. You can just get the rear trailing arm bushing for like $20-25 because they are not in the kit. And since we all drive around in 15 year old economy boxes your rear trailing arm bushing are probably shot with the rest of the bushing. I did the kit about 2 months ago and it was a PITA, to say the least. Oh yeah don't forget to grease ALL the bushing with the gease in the kit because my rear lower control arms are squeeking now because I didn't use the gease on them.
A z6/w obd-1 swap means a 1995 Single Overhead Cam VTEC head with a P28 ECU...NOT a Corvette.
It will cost about $700 to $900 to do it the Right way...but it puts down about 140 to 150 whp if you do it the right way.
It will cost about $700 to $900 to do it the Right way...but it puts down about 140 to 150 whp if you do it the right way.
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