https://honda-tech.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=877965


will it work on a CRX?

if so, i'll buy it right now!

 

bump.

 

You would also need the GSR brake booster to use it in an ef. And would need to customize the brake lines to work with it too.

 

f ...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW


would that work then? the whole ITR master cylinder swap....

 

Yes, that's what I run in my car 98 ITR MC/booster. You still have to do some custom work on your brake lines though. They will need to be bent a little to mate up to the fittings on the MC.

 

OR you can get the MC out of a 90-91 EX 4 door which is a 15/16 and you don't have to change the booster or lines and you still get more pressure and slightly better braking,

 

Or you can also get a direct swap 90-93 Teg MC and BB with no ABS.

 

What's your brake setup?

I'm curious why you think you need a different MC?

 

my brake pedal goes half way down when im on the brakes...

my pads/rotors/ss lines have less then 2k miles on them....the m/c is the only thing it could be.

edit:

the goods are

axxis ultimates, powerstop x-drilled/slotted/ and earls ss lines....with fresh fluid.

 

Did you bleed the brakes?

 

that is the reason you have to swap the booster as well.. mounting holes are angled differently.

 

yep, brakes were bled with the rotor/pad install

 

my master cylinder has 135k miles on it...and i happen to do some "high speed" driving either at the track, or on the large highways late at night or early in the morning...

 

MC that goes bad normally sinks to the floor. The fluid leaks by the seal inside the MC and the pedal just keeps on going until you hit the floor.

Stock calipers?

 

89 accord lxi mc. 15/16 and bolts up to civic and crx brake booster.
F the integra brake booster/mc setup.


DEF

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ceLtic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep, brakes were bled with the rotor/pad install</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I'm not mistaken, brakes need to be bled once more after about a week of driving to remove any "missed" air that got knocked loose while driving. If I were you I would do it one more time to see if that helps. Could be a cheaper fix than you think.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If I'm not mistaken, brakes need to be bled once more after about a week of driving to remove any "missed" air that got knocked loose while driving. If I were you I would do it one more time to see if that helps. Could be a cheaper fix than you think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's what I'm thinking too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I'm not mistaken, brakes need to be bled once more after about a week of driving to remove any "missed" air that got knocked loose while driving. If I were you I would do it one more time to see if that helps. Could be a cheaper fix than you think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point. You can also tap the caliper with a small plastic/rubber mallet while bleeding the brakes to get out any trapped air bubbles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Good point. You can also tap the caliper with a small plastic/rubber mallet while bleeding the brakes to get out any trapped air bubbles.</TD></TR></TABLE>thats a new one, gotta try that

 

bled them several times....i do notice i have to keep on filling up the M/C with brake fluid though....so i guess like you said, i have a leak around the seal in the cup.


and for the person who asked, yes they are stock calipers.