Well I was going to stay quite on this one...but then I saw that guy making copied Placeracing conversion harnesses for around 85 shipped and you have to donate the male plugs and the female plugs.

I have been making these harnesses for a while now and have sold about 20 just on this website alone. I will do 100 shipped and you dont have to donate anything. I must have 3 buyers to get this price. FYI, I dont make Placecopies..I have alot of references. If I get 8 buyers = 75 shipped. LEt me know

Turbo_EF@yahoo.com

 

Haven't done these yet. I still have the first set to make. I should have the first two of them 3 weeks time.

 

I have conversion harnesses in stock and ready to ship out.

Jason

 

so what applactions will this work on i have a 89 hatch with duallpoint i have the dual point conversion but can i put a 93-95 b18a/b in now?

 

I can make you a multi point if you want too. Cost = 100 bucks for the DX to Si conversion(dual-point to multi-point). This OBD0-OBD1 harness will allow you to run the 93-95 B18a/b injectors, distributor, and ecu. My harness will work on any 88-91 civic/crx. It will allow you to run all OBD1 ecus.

Jason

 

so what harness is this? the one on the motor or like a jumper type deal to the ecu? what else would i need to change out, my distributer, and ecu, how does the 4 wire o2 hook up? right now im running a 91 non ls distributer and ecu, just curious if i would have to touch my engine wire harness. thanks and let me know im intereted in going obd1

btw i have a 91 si hatch w/ 95 b18b,


[Modified by One8Hatch, 9:29 PM 11/17/2001]

 

I can make any harness you want. This thread is for the (88-91) to (92-95) conversion. You will keep your stock Si harness and run the OBD1 ecu, injectors, and distributor. The 4wire O2 sensor is easy. There are 4 wires coming off my harness that you will plug the O2 into. Let me know.

Jason

 

if you get eight buyers i'm definitely in. maybe on the $100. for sure on $75. can you do OBD-2?

 

Do you just cut off and change the plugs for the distributor, injectors, ecu and add the o2 and knock sensors? You solder and heat shrink everything right?

 

I take it this is if I make you a DX to B16a harness? Yes, it will have all the Sir plugs soldered and heat shrunk.

Yes, I can do OBD2 harnesses. If I can get 3-7, I can do them for 160 and for 8 or more = 100.

 

Still confused and the distributor part, Do you make a adaptor plug so you can plug the grey style(obd 1 gsr) distributor into the milky white ef plugs? And do you provide me with the injector plugs to run the obd 1 injectors or do obd 1 injectors plug right into the ef clips with no modification. This will be for my 90 si hatch to run a p72-ao1 / hondata stage 4. I would just run pr3/hondata 4 but I wont be able to run 2 o2 sensors with my smsp header, plus I need to run a heated 02 cause the smsp collector sits back 17.5 inches measuring from the oil drain plug to the back of the car

people lets get a head count, if we get the 8 I'm in for sure so count me as 1.(as long as the answer is yes to my questions)

 

This isn't easy stuff guys. There are many differences between the 92-95 Models and the 88-91 Models....adn within the 88-91 Models there's DPFI (DX/LX) and MPFI (Si/HF/EX). So your bound to have differences and a lot of confusion. Let alone VTEC and Knock Sensors.

I am not willing at this time to make a SOHC VTEC Harness...although I have already made a DX and Si Mockup, I did this from what I beleived the wiring to run. I learned alot from it too. However I am going to buy the swap harnesses and make copies of them because they have been found to work. I never did verify mine, and the DX SOHC VTEC harness is only partially finished.

However, I am looking at $120-$130 for a DX Swap harness in the next 3 months time if everything goes well with the Engines and such.

In fact I will be selling 3 D16Z6 Engines all with Headers and These wiring Harness and ECU Adaptor....but short of the Distributor and ECU for $1000-$1200 depending on whether I do anything more to them. They will all be setup for DX Models as well.

---------------------------------

As far as what these OBD 1 adaptors for the ECU's are good for....you can run basically any 92-95 Engine....or any 96-00 Engine as a 92-95 engine (since they are almost entirely the same). I am going to give some recommendations below for upgrades.

Engine Bad, DX, Si or whatever...just wanting a newer engine.....install a D15B7 (basically an 88-91 Si Engine with a little bit less displacement, but still a good engine...don't let the fact that it is a D15 scare you...it moves about the same as the Si, just doesn't pull quite as hard).

Want something for a quick replacement - no money - D15B7 engine or 96-00 D16Y7 engine.....the D16Y7 is a SOHC 1.6 liter like the Si engine....however you will have to use the D15B7 Distributor and the D15B7 ECU to make it run like our 88-91 Si motors. I recommend using the D16Z6 Intake Manifold however. Exhuast manifold...you will need a set of 96-00 Factory Exhuast manifold and A-pipe....you will need to modify the exhuast pipe length because the cat will be pushed back...and the reason the exhuast manifold is needed to be used is the different shape of the oil pan.

Want something fast like your old Si...something you can run turbo on...something that has been worked up already and proven to be fast. The D16Z6. The Greddy Turbo Kit bolts up to it with no modifications required other than a modified Downpipe. Turbo kits go for under $2000 by Greddy right now. Basically get an Si tranny, 700lb or more Clutch Kit, Lightened Flywheel, MSD Ignition, Fuel Pump, and the Complete Engine with Distributor and ECU, and the ECU Adaptor and Swap Harness.....and you'll be looking at $2200 for this and $2000 for the Turbo...if you can install it...you'll run a 13.9-13.4 from there at 8lbs. I believe the Greddy supports up to 11psi as well, and can be adjusted mechanically for boost gain. That's hellafast for under $4500. So buy yourself a Beeter Civic Hatchback for $900, Get an Integra Parts car and upgrade the Brakes and Front Sway Bar from it for $300, Get a set fo Si Rear LCA's and a 18mm-20mm Rear Sway, get an 2.5" Exhuast, and Tokico Struts and 1.5" Lowering Springs.....and for another $2500 you'll have the car for the engine. $7000 to run a mid 13-second car is an amazing value if you ask me.

Then there's B18B with B16 VTEC Trans. Awesome combination for an everyday fast car. Not B16A Fast, but you'll never disagree with the setup.

B18B Turbo....basically a spinoff of the above.

You can even run the B18C as long as you wire in the IAB single wire, get a taller hood, and use the recommend Place Racing B18C Install Motor Mount Kit.

Actually there's really no engine you would be limited to that a 92-00 Civic couldn't handle. But those are some ideas of where you can take this stuff.


[Modified by NC_Rex, 11:19 PM 11/17/2001]

 

The D16Z6 has the following diferences from the Si:

Distirbutor Plugs different
Injector Plugs Different
Fuel pressure Different
Air Intake Temp Sensor Relocated a bit
Coolant Gage Temp Sensor Relocated Fwd a bit
Coolant ECU Temp Sensor Relocated to T-Stat Housing
Map Sensor - 3 wires relocated from Firewall to TB
Purge Solenoid, relocated from firewall to Manifold Plenum at #1 runner, jsut above on backside of plenum
4-wire O2 sensor - 3 extra wires...3 goto ECU, 2EA have to be shielded...position of sensor migrates downward for stability, readability and longer lifetime.
VTEC Assembly....Oil Pressure Switch - 2 wires, VTEC Solenoid - 1 wire.
No longer need the Injector resistor - 92+ Civic Injectors are of a higher impedance and injector resistor is bypassed at the manifold.

Now if you own a DX model....your gonna get really confused:

DX models, your gonna need to add two injector wire...run them to manifold injectors, route outgoing wires to a yellow wire splice to MPFI relay.
Add two wire to distributor for CYL sensor...white and orange. Position will change anyways since the D16Z6 Distributor Connector is being pinned for the OBD1 Distributor.

...basically your gonna want to take a D16Z6 Wiring Harness cut at both sides of the manifold....left and right where they run to the firewall.....and jsut pull off the tape and conduit....use the existing D16Z6 connectors....and route the wires to the correct side. Note: The D16Z6 wires run to different sides of the firewall.....but it makes it easier to use their wiring because you will have less splicing to do....far less.

If I was to explain the reolcations needed for the DX to Si...you'd be surprised. The following however do move:
Air Intake Temp
EACV
And the ones mentioned previously.
...basically every sensor on the DX manifold has to be respositioned.

There is other hardware a DX/LX owner needs to address:
Si or ZC Fuel Line from Fuel Filter
Si or CRX HF Throttle Cable

There's enough there to definately cause a problem if you miss something. You would definately want to buy a $300 premade harness or get a good copy. Not to mention...doing it yourself...how are you going to insulate soldered connections? And secondly...have you ever soldered before...it's not jsut adjoining wires, but getting a good solid solder joint as small as possible. Also heat shrink does not do a very good job at insulating. You will need an Electrical Insulator coating. Something not many people can address or would bother with. And thirdly, the wiring needs to look cleanly done and there has to be very few bends and routed correctly to avoid chaffing on the manifold itself.

When I do these harnesses, they will be built right. That is part of the reason I am taking a while to build them. I had learned quite a bit in how the DX harnesses route the injector wiring already and a couple of other differences with the firewall plugs and such.

In fact, don't think that a Swap harness is just a plug-in. Oh no....you are reolcating sensors off the firewall. The 5 wires form the Map sensor and Purge Solenoid need to be crimped onto the swap harness wires and secured onto the main harness....this needs to be addressed in instructions that comes with the harness. Also you will have another 7 wires (approx..I need to address over again on harness when I make the copies) ...another 7 wires that need to be crimped onto the ECU Adaptor for things like:
4-wire O2 Sensor
VTEC SOlenoid and Oil Pressure Switch
(Knock Sensor...not D16Z6 However)
(IAB...not D16Z6 However)

So it's not something I advise anyone to just one day decide to do. I will ahve more information when I make the first DX Harness. Also I believe the harness will be better built then the D16Z6 Place Racing Harnesses.....and I will use the stock wires...and the harness may not require a Core either. That is the important thing. Let me address this...because this is confusing.

A core will not be needed if you have an Si...just the Distributor connector, VTEC Connectors, Fuel Injector Connectors and 4-wire O2 Sensor Connector. You can provide these or pay $35 extra on the harness.

If you are getting a DX Swap Harness....I have cores already and can get them readily. I will make the harness for you with the core D16Z6 harness you provide or if you opt to buy the connectors I have available for it. The Harness costs between $120-$130 at this time...may cost less and I will have to see how cheap I can get it before I release them. Shoudl be solid at least at $130 or less.

I will also have a Harness Buyback for DX models at $15 dollars - $20 for shipping included. As well as an ECU buyback for $5 (for OBD0 Internal Connectors). And a Buyback for 92-95 Cabin ECU Harness Connectors with 8 inches of wiring attached....minumum of 2 sets...2 sets = 5 bucks, each additional for $2 bucks. So you can make something back on this. That's $20 bucks quite easily if your willing to take the time to package and find connectors at a junkyard and pocket them.

I will have more info on this when I get the adaptors done...and the harness copies started for the DX models here in the next two months.

 

For changing over the O2 Sensors from OBD0 to OBD1...requires a repositioning of the entire sensor. As far as a header is required. There is one oddity in this I have identified.....Honda reuses the D15B2 and D16A6 88-91 Exhuast manifold (same manifold between these models)....reuses it on the 92-95 DX and LD D15B7 motors....the MPFI 1.5 liter engine. The 4-wire Heated O2 OBD1 sensor is in the same position as as the older OBDO 1-wire sensor. So it's a simply plug-in and not complicated at all!

***This actually also means a D16Y7 engine can reuse the DX and Si 88-91 Exhaust manifold....and if needed, reuse the Si Intake Manifold as well. This is actually a very easy swap for an Si Model. Really the only changes would be the:
Repinning of the D15B7 Distributor Connector to the Si Harness
Adding the Extra 02 Sensor Wires
And that would be it.

Back to the Header O2 Sensor relocation....simply find a large nut with the same thread pitch as your O2 Sensor....goto a fastener store that specializes in this...or take your sensor into Lowes and look at their bins and benchstock in that isle with all the fasteners. The simply look at pictures of headers and figure out what the difference is between their OBD1 and OBD0 positions. I really can't be specific on this...might take some actual searching in fact. However most headers are almsot always the same distance in O2 sensor placement from the exhuast manifold ports.

The relocation procedure is easy....bolt up the old hole with a stubby bolt---grind down the end of it...use antiseize to seal and allow it to be removed later down the road. On the new position....marked it...drill a pilot hole (small)...then drill a larger hole big enough for only the tip of the sensor to pass through...then weld the nut directly over center of the hole...make sure you do it right the first time or you will need a dremel to correct. Then simply install the O2 sensor with antiseize compound on threads.

 

For you...changing to a newer ECU...I beleive the Cam changed a bit in the 94+ B18B...so you may want to get this, the B18C Distributor that mounts to the older style B18A head....and the P74/75 Manual ECU. You will also need the 4-wire O2 sensor.....however i beleive you do not need to run the newer injectors because the impedance is abotu the same with the odler ones and the injector resistor.

>> But you will need to repin your distributor connector for the new Distributor
>> Add the 4-wire O2 sensor...."may" have to relocate the O2 sensor...hwoever you may be able to just run the newer exhuast manifold - or hell just buy a newer header...comes with a new O2 sensor anyways - most do.
>> Add the ECU Adaptor

That should be it. I beleive you pick up like 8hp form the Cam, 94+ Exhuast Manifold, and newer ECU. (however I would get a header...only use the newer exhuast manifold if different - not sure it is...and if you are on a budget and do not want to relocate sensor).

 

Yeah you could install the newer B18B engine. Basically the same as the above reply....however you will need to follow the DX to Si wiring conversion instructions in general.

One note about the D16A6 Si engine to B18A1 engine upgrade...the wiring harness is exactly the same! Almost identical. There is only an extension of the Air Intake Temperature Sensor by a bit and may not be required and possibly the EACV on the back fo the manifold plenum.

For the DX upgrade to B18B...I recommend getting the Si upgraded harness and going from there....whether you do it yourself or not....Actually though, since it costs about the same, and since you have a DX model, I would have Place Racing build you the swap harness. The DX Model swap ahrnesses are often quite complicated.

 

You will take your OBD1 grey style distributor and pull the pins out. Then you will take your OBD0 distributor plugs and unpin them. Take the OBD0 plugs and pin the OBD1 pins into the OBD0 plug. It is really easy and I have some cool pics for instructions. I have a 90 civic hb and I test all my harnesses in there. I have a 98 B18c in it. As far as your injectors go, I take it your are not running stock. You will be fine if you arent.

Jason

 

No I will either be going with rc 310 or 370 cc , it depends on if I get the hondata or not and if I decide I am going to further upgrade in the future( which I think this will be my last attempt cause i'm not getting any younger and I need to think about getting a house )
[QUOTE]I have a 98 B18c in it.[QUOTE]
mine is a 2001 but I'm currently using a pr4 with a skunk vtec program and just using my vafc to activate vtec. It was originally a pwo set up so I am using the jdm b16a distributor. Between the rich skunk ecu, todb b's, and not having a provision on the skunk intake man for a fast idle valve, I cant get this car to idle for **** in the cold. I lean out the vafc 25 % at idle

 

Does Hondata have an application for 92-95 motors and ECU's.

 

Okay, so you are going to get some OBD1 injectors from RC. Then your Stock Si injector clips will work fine.

I have a wife, daughter, and I am a full time college student....plus doing all this car stuff = no time.


[Modified by Blown90hatcH, 9:40 AM 11/18/2001]

 

Nc rex, yes the do thats what I am getting. I'm having them do the work to a 95 gsr ecu, thats why I need the obd0-obd1 conversion harness.
http://www.hondata.com/


[Modified by Tbone, 4:27 PM 11/18/2001]

 

so we got eight yet??? come on guys...its freekin cheap.

 

So do i get a 51 dollar check back with the new pricing? I sent you a 151 dollar check saturday.

Steven

 

Yeah...if you can get the buyers....I will send you the loot back. You are the only one so far. Must have atleast 3 people prepay by this weekend (November 25th) for this price. The 8 people price is good for until Dec 10th.

Jason

 

Sweeeeet.... Come on guys, I am the first, cough up the cash fellas, you know this is one hell of a deal. Two more people come on down.

Steven