B185c over rev'd problems???
I have a B18c5 with jun 3 cam & valve gear I buzzed my engine to 10,600rpm its all in one bit still but I want to know what kinda stuff I should be checking & replacing
I'm thinking testing the compression & using a bore scope to check the pistons would be a good start? anything else?
Please help as Im racing in 5 weeks & really need to get this sorted to put my mind at ease!
BillB
I'm thinking testing the compression & using a bore scope to check the pistons would be a good start? anything else?
Please help as Im racing in 5 weeks & really need to get this sorted to put my mind at ease!
BillB
How did you get it that high? Miss-shift? The crank should be ok, and I think the bearings should be fine. You might check your valve clearance. That would be a good sign of valve failure. CHANGE YOUR OIL, and cut your filter in half to see if there are any metal shavings (this could tell you if you scarred a journal--crank or cam) And just keep your ear open. GOod luck though. Hope you didn't stay that high for too long!
that sucks dude listen to nathan. But I honestly don't think anything to bad happened if all those things check out and it drives the same you should be fine. But always listen to your car she will always tell you if something is wrong. Good luck with the car.
Cheers I miss-shifted into 2nd rather than 4th (found out my arm hits my seat pushing my arm across
after moving stuff around).
The LM-1 logger shows it was up there for 1/2 a second or so at least my reactions arnt bad I just need to learn to shift
Anymore tips or ideas?
BillB
Modified by BillB at 7:57 PM 6/24/2004
after moving stuff around).The LM-1 logger shows it was up there for 1/2 a second or so at least my reactions arnt bad I just need to learn to shift
Anymore tips or ideas?
BillB
Modified by BillB at 7:57 PM 6/24/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRXDelSol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why JUN 3????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who the **** cares. What does that have to do with this thread?
Who the **** cares. What does that have to do with this thread?
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Please do a search theres loads of info abt all the different cams. This post is due to me miss-shifting & now needing help to work out what I need to do & check before I run my engine again
BillB
BillB
check retainers for cracks. and valves for being bent. also check your piston releifs for any nicks the valves might have touched them at that speed
i did the same thing and ended up having cracked a retainer due to the lift of the cam and the springs binding up at that high of RPM.
hope that helps,
good luck.
i did the same thing and ended up having cracked a retainer due to the lift of the cam and the springs binding up at that high of RPM.
hope that helps,
good luck.
Well for the people giving me flames..I don't see any of you helping this guy out. I'm sorry for my dumb post.
First thing >I< would do is get my compression checked first. How did the #'s come out if you checked it yet? Does the car still run fine?? I guess these are factors to people should know to help you out. Best of luck with racing. I'm sure everything is fine unless the car feels sluggish, different in some way.
First thing >I< would do is get my compression checked first. How did the #'s come out if you checked it yet? Does the car still run fine?? I guess these are factors to people should know to help you out. Best of luck with racing. I'm sure everything is fine unless the car feels sluggish, different in some way.
I've checked so far
1. The LMA's for smooth operation as app they can bind at those kind of rev's even tho there the ITR LMA's + had a look around for any metal & thats fine
2. Took the oil out into a nice clean tray + cut the oil filter open to check for metal in there & its a fine there too
3. I also took the sump off to have a look for metal around the oil pickup filter etc which was all clear
4. Checked the PAS, ALT, cam & crank pulleys to make sure there all tight & ok
I hope to be able to borrow a bore scope to have a look at the valves & pistons + I'll check the retainers up close to make sure (thanks for that tip)
I'm gona swap the cam belt & fit a new water pump just incase. I want to check the tranny oil for metal + take a look around the clutch/flywheel to make sure thats all ok. After that I'll rebuild the bits I've took off & fit some ARP rod bolts (I'll check the shells for wear then also) once I get my torque wrench back for being checked then I'll do a compression test.
BTW the engine pulled & ran fine after & the tranny was fine too I just dont like risking these things as parts over here are hard to get & moneys tight after all the stuff I've got!
Thanks for all your help, I'll post once I get her running again & some vid's etc of my racing i hope!
BillB
1. The LMA's for smooth operation as app they can bind at those kind of rev's even tho there the ITR LMA's + had a look around for any metal & thats fine
2. Took the oil out into a nice clean tray + cut the oil filter open to check for metal in there & its a fine there too
3. I also took the sump off to have a look for metal around the oil pickup filter etc which was all clear
4. Checked the PAS, ALT, cam & crank pulleys to make sure there all tight & ok
I hope to be able to borrow a bore scope to have a look at the valves & pistons + I'll check the retainers up close to make sure (thanks for that tip)
I'm gona swap the cam belt & fit a new water pump just incase. I want to check the tranny oil for metal + take a look around the clutch/flywheel to make sure thats all ok. After that I'll rebuild the bits I've took off & fit some ARP rod bolts (I'll check the shells for wear then also) once I get my torque wrench back for being checked then I'll do a compression test.
BTW the engine pulled & ran fine after & the tranny was fine too I just dont like risking these things as parts over here are hard to get & moneys tight after all the stuff I've got!
Thanks for all your help, I'll post once I get her running again & some vid's etc of my racing i hope!
BillB
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