Just finished installing the C&R radiator a couple days ago. Fitment is awesome. There was only one modification that needed to be done, it's real easy to do and it's only if your using the stock cross-member. You have to bend part of the cross-member up to get the drain plug to clear it. I just used a vise grip to bend the crossmember--(little pic on the right). Also you have to bend the wingnut part of the drain plug--(little pic on the left), it works just fine if you do these things. Check out the pics to see what i'm talking about.
(p.s. the hose just looks kinked b/c of the lighting. It's really not.)








Modified by spcrxracer at 2:34 AM 6/23/2004


Modified by spcrxracer at 3:04 AM 6/23/2004


Modified by spcrxracer at 9:26 PM 7/3/2004

 

[ace ventura] Like a glove [/end ace ventura]

 

upper rad. hose looks like its not going to flow well......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bserieskllr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">upper rad. hose looks like its not going to flow well......</TD></TR></TABLE>

whoa didnt notice that, chop like 1-2 inchs off each side and it should work fine

 

how much was it?

why didn't you get the new C&R shorty?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why didn't you get the new C&R shorty? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd only get that if I needed space for a turbo, but thats just me. More surface area on the radiator means better cooling, and I'll probably be going with the full C&R whenever I upgrade.

 

how much thicker is C&R full radator vs the EF is one?

 

just eyeballin it i'd say about 1 3/4 to 2 times as thick

 

Looks good. If those are integra radiator hoses, you should trim about 2" off the front of both the top and bottom hoses. Thats what ive always done anyhow...

BTW, if anyone is interested, i have a C&R "shorty" style radiator for sale. Check my sig

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much was it?

why didn't you get the new C&R shorty? </TD></TR></TABLE>

It was $485.90 from http://WWW.MOREPOWERRACING.COM
i didnt get the shorty because im going all motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spcrxracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It was $485.90 from http://WWW.MOREPOWERRACING.COM
i didnt get the shorty because im going all motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
holy crap!

http://www.thezam.org/kam/rad.html
http://www.absoluteradiator.co...rod=9
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for 88-91 Honda Civic/CRX
4 Cyl. 1.5/1.6L M/T & A/T Hatchback DX/SI & Sedan/Coupe (DX/LX/EX)
This radiator has rugged, all metal construction(brass and copper with a black finish), not plastic tanks like the factory OEM radiator. The radiator core is twice as thick as the factory radiator, (1 5/16 instead of 11/16), providing twice the cooling capacity. This radiator also has twice the number of cooling tube rows as the factory radiator, (2 instead of 1), providing twice the flow. Although this radiator does not have the maximum cooling capacity of the All-Aluminum Radiators, it is an excellant choice for hard driving, high heat conditions. This is a direct replacement radiator, no modifications required.
Made By: CSF
Warranty: Limited Lifetime


Price: $ $122.00 </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Good **** bro .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
holy crap!

http://www.thezam.org/kam/rad.html
http://www.absoluteradiator.co...rod=9


</TD></TR></TABLE>


Brass = crap. Full aluminum ones can be had for 300-350.

 

Damn I want one now!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brass = crap. Full aluminum ones can be had for 300-350.</TD></TR></TABLE>
aluminum IS better than brass...

except that mine has lasted:
going on two years
6 track events
30 autocrosses
120degree Vegas temps
and has never let my car's water temp rise above 220'...

but, you're right, brass is crap... especially when it's HALF the price of aluminum rads and provides nearly the same performance. oh wait, it doesn't LOOK pretty...

 

I don't care what looks pretty, I would still rather have a quality aluminum one. Your right, the brass is cheap and can work pretty good. However I have seen too many crack and corrode, especially those 75 dollar ones.