JIC Magic FLT-A2 install...
Hello, I'm about to receive some JIC FLT-A2's for my 2003 EP. I was just wondering if any of you guys on here have any tips and instructions to help make my installation smoother. What concerns me most is the tie rod removal and re-installation. Also, do you guys have the torques for the various bolts on the install. I want everything with this install to go right. Any information would be cool. If the info is long, you can aim me on B1Roku or email me at Jegspeed@hotmail.com.
thanks
thanks
For torque specs you may want to get the helms manual or call your local honda dealership service department and ask them for that information. As for removing the tie rid if I remember correctly you will need a special tool that can remove the pin that is bent around it. I had to adjust that pin when I installed my Tein Flex on my DC5S. For more help you may want to just read the instructions.
Hi, i have the JIC coilovers on my EP as well. the install is really straightfoward & pretty easy if you've ever done a suspension install before.
of course the difference in the EP is the front.
the rear is double wishbone, easy.
you will need a tie rod puller.
got mine from pep boys($10). it's claw type with a threaded bolt in the center.
alot better design than a fork type. you won't pinch the rubber on the tie rod with the claw type.
(the pin isn't an issue. needle nose to undo it and tap it out. just the opposite to reinstall the pin. no biggie.)
biggest thing is to watch is the rotor when you pull the last bottom bolt on the strut.
it will fall down towards you, & in return will pull the axle with it. you'll have to turn the rotor slowly to try to slide it back in.
it WILL try your nerves to get it back in.
very first thing i had to do is go get the tow fixed. i had the most retarded tow in i had ever seen.
this is because of the tie rods being longer.
luckily there is a tire shop 2 blocks away. get an alignment immediately.
i thought for sure some thing was busted or the wrong part, but when i looked at it head on, you could actually see the tow in.
hopefully you have a camber kit for the rear.
im pretty low, to where i have tons of neg. camber in the rear. got a camber kit shortly after.
there are good articles on http://www.k-series.com & http://www.ephatch.com about installs of the suspension. look through those sites.
good luck
the JIC is awesome, you'll love it. changes the dynamics of the car completely.
of course the difference in the EP is the front.
the rear is double wishbone, easy.
you will need a tie rod puller.
got mine from pep boys($10). it's claw type with a threaded bolt in the center.
alot better design than a fork type. you won't pinch the rubber on the tie rod with the claw type.
(the pin isn't an issue. needle nose to undo it and tap it out. just the opposite to reinstall the pin. no biggie.)
biggest thing is to watch is the rotor when you pull the last bottom bolt on the strut.
it will fall down towards you, & in return will pull the axle with it. you'll have to turn the rotor slowly to try to slide it back in.
it WILL try your nerves to get it back in.
very first thing i had to do is go get the tow fixed. i had the most retarded tow in i had ever seen.
this is because of the tie rods being longer.
luckily there is a tire shop 2 blocks away. get an alignment immediately.
i thought for sure some thing was busted or the wrong part, but when i looked at it head on, you could actually see the tow in.
hopefully you have a camber kit for the rear.
im pretty low, to where i have tons of neg. camber in the rear. got a camber kit shortly after.
there are good articles on http://www.k-series.com & http://www.ephatch.com about installs of the suspension. look through those sites.
good luck
the JIC is awesome, you'll love it. changes the dynamics of the car completely.
There's lots of pics from when I did mine. You should find those and the instructions useful. Its pretty straightforward, getting them level side to side and even front to back is the time consuming part.
http://tools.ecn.purdue.edu/~k....html
http://tools.ecn.purdue.edu/~k....html
http://tools.ecn.purdue.edu/~k....html
http://tools.ecn.purdue.edu/~k....html
Well there you go, some people chimmed in and helped you out. One thing I remember the most on my install was the rotor wanting to fall toward me. Just make sure you have that held back properly or you will have to reinstall your axels. Mine almost popped out.
Good luck bro.
Good luck bro.
hey thanks sooo much guys. This is really cool. If you guys have any more information keep on posting, they would be great. Once again, thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boilermaker1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">getting them level side to side and even front to back is the time consuming part.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, left right is easy. i used to have a hard time with previous coilovers, until i finally happen to read the instructions on the JIC. it says to measure (with a tape measure) from the base of the threaded shock body to the bottom of the perch that the spring is resting on. this way, both left & right are set at the same heights.
front & rear is usually a one time take off & on the wheels affair. i set it where i thought would be good, & then made my adjustments from there.
you can kind of eye ball how much it will lower from the tape measure.
(to let you know, 1/8th inch doesn't lower an 1/8th of an inch)
you will see after the first time you move it, how much it lowers, when you move them.
mine sits beautifully now. the best part is, as low as i am, i have no rubbing at all.
i am running 17x7.5 SSR Type C's & 215/45 Kumho MX & they clear with no problem.
i'll take a pic this afternoon. sucks to hear stuff without actually seeing it.
Modified by civicgsir at 9:05 AM 6/23/2004
</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, left right is easy. i used to have a hard time with previous coilovers, until i finally happen to read the instructions on the JIC. it says to measure (with a tape measure) from the base of the threaded shock body to the bottom of the perch that the spring is resting on. this way, both left & right are set at the same heights.
front & rear is usually a one time take off & on the wheels affair. i set it where i thought would be good, & then made my adjustments from there.
you can kind of eye ball how much it will lower from the tape measure.
(to let you know, 1/8th inch doesn't lower an 1/8th of an inch)
you will see after the first time you move it, how much it lowers, when you move them.
mine sits beautifully now. the best part is, as low as i am, i have no rubbing at all.
i am running 17x7.5 SSR Type C's & 215/45 Kumho MX & they clear with no problem.
i'll take a pic this afternoon. sucks to hear stuff without actually seeing it.
Modified by civicgsir at 9:05 AM 6/23/2004
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sennavsprost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, how low did you lower your car? How does that feel? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the ride quality is very, very good. with any stiff type suspension, your going to feel alot more of the road.
if any, the harsh conditions one might feel, would be related to the tires & not so much the suspension itself. the smaller tire sidewall would contribute to that i believe.
even as low as it is, i have yet to "bottom out", & they have been on for about 6 month now. i am very careful as well. as the suspension, nore the wheels were inexpensive. the inverted front damper is huge in preventing that as well.
i wanted to run the cars first auto-X bone stock, to see how it was stock vs. a more aggressive suspension setup.
well, considering that the course would not be the same, i used my good friend as the gauge.
he has an 94 LS Integra with Tein coilovers, pads/rotors & some engine mods & we are pretty close as drivers.
bone stock, he beat me by 1.9 sec. at the next event, with just the JIC, wheels/tires, Hawk HP+ pads/rotors & 25mm Mugen rear sway bar, i got him by 2.2 sec. so, as you can see, i'm really happy with the performance of the suspension.
theorytically, with no engine mods, just suspension, i was able to pick up over 4 sec. vs. stock in an auto-X enviroment.
there is no physical/actual evidence of this, just a loose experience & comparison.
anyways, here are a couple of pics of the car with the suspension installed.
it has rained for the last week straight, so ***** dirty. but you get the idea.

the ride quality is very, very good. with any stiff type suspension, your going to feel alot more of the road.
if any, the harsh conditions one might feel, would be related to the tires & not so much the suspension itself. the smaller tire sidewall would contribute to that i believe.
even as low as it is, i have yet to "bottom out", & they have been on for about 6 month now. i am very careful as well. as the suspension, nore the wheels were inexpensive. the inverted front damper is huge in preventing that as well.
i wanted to run the cars first auto-X bone stock, to see how it was stock vs. a more aggressive suspension setup.
well, considering that the course would not be the same, i used my good friend as the gauge.
he has an 94 LS Integra with Tein coilovers, pads/rotors & some engine mods & we are pretty close as drivers.
bone stock, he beat me by 1.9 sec. at the next event, with just the JIC, wheels/tires, Hawk HP+ pads/rotors & 25mm Mugen rear sway bar, i got him by 2.2 sec. so, as you can see, i'm really happy with the performance of the suspension.
theorytically, with no engine mods, just suspension, i was able to pick up over 4 sec. vs. stock in an auto-X enviroment.
there is no physical/actual evidence of this, just a loose experience & comparison.
anyways, here are a couple of pics of the car with the suspension installed.
it has rained for the last week straight, so ***** dirty. but you get the idea.

yea get the tie rod puller and get the torque specs. everything else is basic tooling. get a couple friends to help yah too. makes time fly by
Hey, Jeggi,
Sorry I've gotten overy busy and haven't written lately, but If you get ahold of the Helms manual pages, everything is layed out for you. Here are somet things they dont cover however:
---------
When you are taking off the two big knuckle bolts on the front, use a bungie cord or something to secure the HUB with pressure pulling inward toward the transmission... a support underneath it wont do, you need to keep it tight in there.
---------
I say do the fronts first, as you can ride around with the back in the air for a day if you need too, but not vice-versa. Once you have one stock front strut off, use it as a guide to set your new JICs to the hieght you want... I'd recommend no more than 2" lowered. Measure from the knuckle bolt to the top mount to make your adjustments.
---------
Be sure that every aspect of both Fronts or both rears are set exactly the same on each side before you install, and it will save you some wondering after you put them on.
----------
DONT preload JIC springs! just make the collars one or so turns past touching at full droop... that will be firm enough to keep them from "rattling".
-----------
Get some good grease and grease the tops and bottoms of the springs before you install. Be generous with the grease! GOOP IT UP!
-----------
Tie rods are not a problem if you use a real Tie-rod tool, not a "prying fork". You can get the tool for $5-$10
-----------
On the rears, attach the large bottom bolt first, then using a jack, raise the assembly the rest of the way up and mount the top two 14mm bolts on the inside last.... its WAY easier to do it in this order... the other way is very difficult! Also, you will need a DEEP 14mm socket and a 8" extension to get to those bolts back there in the trunk.
That's all I can think of right now, but there may be more.... feel free to contact me while you are installing. I'll PM you my phone #
Sorry I've gotten overy busy and haven't written lately, but If you get ahold of the Helms manual pages, everything is layed out for you. Here are somet things they dont cover however:
---------
When you are taking off the two big knuckle bolts on the front, use a bungie cord or something to secure the HUB with pressure pulling inward toward the transmission... a support underneath it wont do, you need to keep it tight in there.
---------
I say do the fronts first, as you can ride around with the back in the air for a day if you need too, but not vice-versa. Once you have one stock front strut off, use it as a guide to set your new JICs to the hieght you want... I'd recommend no more than 2" lowered. Measure from the knuckle bolt to the top mount to make your adjustments.
---------
Be sure that every aspect of both Fronts or both rears are set exactly the same on each side before you install, and it will save you some wondering after you put them on.
----------
DONT preload JIC springs! just make the collars one or so turns past touching at full droop... that will be firm enough to keep them from "rattling".
-----------
Get some good grease and grease the tops and bottoms of the springs before you install. Be generous with the grease! GOOP IT UP!
-----------
Tie rods are not a problem if you use a real Tie-rod tool, not a "prying fork". You can get the tool for $5-$10
-----------
On the rears, attach the large bottom bolt first, then using a jack, raise the assembly the rest of the way up and mount the top two 14mm bolts on the inside last.... its WAY easier to do it in this order... the other way is very difficult! Also, you will need a DEEP 14mm socket and a 8" extension to get to those bolts back there in the trunk.
That's all I can think of right now, but there may be more.... feel free to contact me while you are installing. I'll PM you my phone #
hey thanks a lot man, for sure i'll give you a ring if i run into any problem. Thanks guys for all the info, if you guys have anything else feel free to post it. The JICs should be here really soon and i'm anticipating the install. Anyways, once again thanks guys.
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