On my 88 crx i have GR-2 struts and Eibach Pro-kit springs (1.25-1.5" drop). With no camber kit.

I just got it aligned and my camber is..

-.9 deg on front left (drivers)
-1.7 deg on front right (pass)

The wierd thing is that the drivers side wheel has LESS tire to well gap than the passenger side! I am also having a problem with a load banging/knocking noise when i make hard left turns or when the passenger (right) tire is under heavy load, ie. a bump in the road.

Can anyone explain this to me...can the front 2 tires be this much different in camber!? Especially if the one with more camber shows a larger wheel gap?

Please help somebody...

Vince

 

Hmmm, maybe they need to align the car with you in it?

 

Thats odd. I at our shop we never have to align the car with anyone in it. Maybe you should get a camber kit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EyelessCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats odd. I at our shop we never have to align the car with anyone in it. Maybe you should get a camber kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Planned on it...but doesn't it seem like something else is wrong?

 

Have you had anyone look at the suspension yet. Call up a company called shox.com they may be able to help you.

 

yeah i've have minekee and firestone-bridgestone drive/shake down/look at everything on my suspension/drivetrain and they don't know what it is. What is shox.com, do they sell camber kits or just troubleshoot suspensions?

Vince

 

you dont have that much camber to be worried about, its caster and toe that will eat your tires...

how are your front bushings? maybe the one lca bushing for the shock is worn causing the shock to sit lower and making that noise on a turn...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont have that much camber to be worried about, its caster and toe that will eat your tires...

how are your front bushings? maybe the one lca bushing for the shock is worn causing the shock to sit lower and making that noise on a turn...</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're all poly , i really need to figure this out...i don't understand it. Everything under my car has been replaced besides upper ball joints (still tight) and wheel bearings (been told twice they are fine).

Vince

 

try torquing everything to spec...i had a clunking noise and i left my lca bolt to the chassis a bit loose...

 

Ha...sorry, have retorqued everything at least 3 times loose and back to spec. I'm really **** about everything i do to the car and i even bought a new steering rack...still the same problem.

I'm wondering if my knuckle could be bent? UCA? Something in the geometry can't be right if i have more (-) camber and more wheel gap on one side. Just doesn't make sense...

Vince

 

Need some more help...

Would the difference in camber from both front wheels be this much different normally?

-.9 deg on front left (drivers)
-1.7 deg on front right (pass)

Do i just need a camber kit or is a .8 deg difference A LOT and i have more to worry about...Come on anyone work at an alignment shop??

Help a brotha out,

Vince

 

I work in the parts department at a Subaru dealership. I will ask one of the alignment specialists if there is anything you can do about the akward lopsidedness. (I think I made a new word) Ne ways I have the same problem. My drivers side is lower than my passenger side. I just put brand new shocks and springs on the car. That didnt fix my problem but I am about to get new bushings and a camber kit if it keeps acting up. Ill let you know....

 

Yeah i've been looking at camber kits and think i've decided on the SPC adjustable ball joints up front (up to +1.5deg) and the adjustable upper control arms for the rear. Hopefully should fix it but i have a feeling something else is wrong...

Thanks for checking it out for me,

Vince

 

Pretty sure i found the problem for those who care. I took off my springs/shocks and when i jack up the knuckle (simulating a hard left turn) i found that the axel becomes totally compressed and therefore is bangin/grinding either in the CV joints, differential or bearing surface...

I found this by removing the axel hub nut and checking it had some play...as i raised the knuckle at one point it would not press in anymore. Catch my drift?

I'm hoping a camber kit will help a little...hopefully whoever did my swap used the correct axels.

Vince

 

haha I have the same problem, your not alone !

My situation is that the fender gap of the rear tires aren't equal. The front however has similar tire gap BUT the passenger side wheel sticks out noticably further. I've got camber kits all the way around. shox.com wont be any help, they'll just refer you to the manufacture, who then will tell you to get a tech to look at it.

I've never noticed any noises while making a turn until i got a new front cross member. When I make a SHARP turn I hear a knock and I can feel it in the steering too. I dont notice anything wrong with the suspension performance wise with this problem but the noise does raise a brow .

bushing are all poly too, 17 inch wheels 205/40.

funky stuff, you wont believe how many times I've had my car aligned.

P.S. have you figured out that tire - fender gap problem yet ?

 

Talked to one of the technicians in the shop and he said that it is most likely a camber or bushing problem if you have already replaced the suspension. He said switch bushings first if that doesnt completely fix it get a camber kit.

 

Yeah all my bushings are Poly as of 2 months ago so i know it's not them. Like i posted above i'm 99% sure it's my axel getting completely compressed as the knuckle and right wheel are under heavy load. Either the axels i have are too long or my camber is that bad where a kit will be able to allow more play for the axel.

Thanks guys i'll let you know in a week or so once i get my SPC balljoint kit and put it in. Just need some 89-91 upper control arms if anyone has them...

Vince

 

Well I have the same rattle problem but is more on the passenger side
I have new UCA's/Ingalls camber kit/Lower Ball Joints/Wheel Bearings/Prothane bushings just had the tie rod ends replaced and the damn rattle still there everytime i go over a bump
I was told by the Honda technician who worked on my car that to change the strut mounts and see what happens.
I was so concerned bout what they were doing to my car at the dealer that the whole time I was right next to the technician as he worked on my car
It just makes me so angry to hear that damn wheel rattle
Im gonna replace the strut mounts and see what happens
Im also gonna check out the thing with the axle that Agent is talking about.

 

I think a lot of us think that we have the same problem but I think its all because of different factors. I am pretty sure that my car needs new bushings and a camber kit. If I figure out whats wrong with mine I will let you know.

 

Find out yet Eyeless

 

yeah i'm waiting on my upper control arms still...prob wont get them till next week and install next weekend. I sure hope this fixes the problem!

I just hope that +1 deg camber will free up my binding axel....

Vince

 

Agent I have a camber kit on my hatch and it still makes that damn sickening rattle noise

 

1 degree camber is not a lot, if anything it will free up like 1/8th of an inch...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1 degree camber is not a lot, if anything it will free up like 1/8th of an inch... </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm doomed...maybe i have the wrong axles?

PS - who's next car is going to be brand new...i can't take used cars anymore!!!

Vince

 

sounds like your upper control arms are not right? I would say pull them off fix the tops and then make sure they are even on both sides and put them back on. I had same problem with my one crx. If you look at the cars throw fender when car has load on it. You will see that the upper control arms are sitting at different angles because when you probably reinstalled it you didn't set it. That was my problem at least.

DEF