Hi guys, I've done the dyno tune last thursday on my H22A Accord, and the tuner help me tune down the Vtec to 4500rpm.
After everything's done, I can hear the vtec kick in at 4500rpm, however, until the car go up to 5000rpm(stock setting), I finally can feel the vtec is pulling.
I was just wondering do they need to input more fuel or air if they tune down the vtec, or everyone have the same result after dyno tune? If so, there's actually no point to have vtec down tune. Am I right?

 

the problem is that vtec advances your timing when it engages, and most aftermarket piggyback systems can't advance the timing down to a lower rpm...the vafc's can't, that's for sure...you can play with the air fuel maps all you want, but it's the timing that's creating the sudden surge...

 

AEM EMS can control vtec while also adjusting fuel and timing. timing makes a big difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b_ron007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AEM EMS can control vtec while also adjusting fuel and timing. timing makes a big difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats why stand alone &gt; piggy back

 

Hey Guys, here's my dyno graph. Please advise.Thanks.

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/...2.jpg

 

looks like you're running pretty rich on the top end. I don't have much experience with tuning (unfortunately) but I'd imagine that if you leaned out your top end a little you could get some more power

 

what i would like to know is why on this dyno, the tourque and horsepower curves don't cross at 5252 as they should, and do on every other dyno i've ever seen....

giving it a big wtf?

 

is this an auto or a manny? btw i like your torque jump between 4.7-5.2k

 

ya thats what im saying the torque and the horsepower curves are gonna cross at 5250 sup wit that???

 

you only got 148 WHP out of an h22a and u say thats tuned!??? wow.. ur motor is fucked then.. cuz a stock h22 has about 180WHP bone stock untuned... and i think you should set Vtec engagement back at 5g's because you have an insane torque dip between 4500 and 4800 rpm.. i dunno where u got this tuned or.. baselined at.. but i'd wonder about that motor.. ur only putting out the same power as a stock b16... those numbers are terrible

 

I would run a base set minus the piggy back vafc and see what you're running...then tune accordingly.

148whp out of a h22=very weak

 

Thanks guys, that's totally what I think, 148 WHP is too weak from H22A.
Does auto tranny make any different from manuel? Coz mine is an auto.

btw, I tuned my vtec back to the stock setting

I'm now looking for a shop in midwest area to do dyno tune for me. Any one got suggestion?

 

that is the shittiest tuning ever.....sorry to say......

you loose torque as your approach 5K.......you should be making hella amounts of torque (comparitive to honda engines) around there.........did they mess with the A/F maps and such??....cause honeslty, you shouldnt loose power @ vtec engagemnt point (which you are)

 

wait just a ******* second....this is the stupidest dyno i've ever seen...take a look:


tourque is on the right, horsepower is on the left...you can't even compare the two because they are measured on the graph using a different scale...that's why the ******* curves don't cross at 5252 rpm's....i'd say this particular dyno is kinda fucked up...you may even want to go to a different dyno because this one is inaccurate considering the stupidity of the graph...your numbers may not be as bad as they show on this particular dyno...hopefully not anyways...good luck

 

regardless, i love how he lost power once vtec engaged.....

if they messed w/ the AF alot, id ask for my money back

 

also, what kind of tuning tools were used in this tuning session...

 

Just normal wide band O2 senor

 

it will have a lil more loss to the wheels, but it shouldnt be that much. maybe a new tuner is required? would you be willling to come to kc?

 

my friend's auto prelude dynoed at around the same numbers..like 150ish with i/h/e...always wondered about those motors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azian21485 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my friend's auto prelude dynoed at around the same numbers..like 150ish with i/h/e...always wondered about those motors</TD></TR></TABLE>
which h22 did he have

 

i have an h22a with bolt ons (mugen header, 2.5" testpipe and exhaust, oem intake w/o filter, chipped GimpyRom p28, vafc, and butterfly system removed that dynoed 203 at the wheels...my motor might be a little healthier than most, but 150ish is abnormally low...i'd say 175-180 is normal for an h22a with bolt ons...

*edit, also, when i asked about the tuning, i meant how was the car tuned? piggyback system? chipped ecu? standalone, what?

 

AMS is local...i've heard nothing but great things about them so i dunno.

Maybe this proves the whole "auto's come with different cams" arugument.

This is brian from clac right?

 

Thanks every one
So, should I tune my car in other shop again ?
BTW, I'm tuning with VAFC-II

 

Sorry to get off topic but, what exactly is the Butterfly system? Is it easy to do?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick H &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have an h22a with bolt ons (mugen header, 2.5" testpipe and exhaust, oem intake w/o filter, chipped GimpyRom p28, vafc, and butterfly system removed that dynoed 203 at the wheels...my motor might be a little healthier than most, but 150ish is abnormally low...i'd say 175-180 is normal for an h22a with bolt ons...

*edit, also, when i asked about the tuning, i meant how was the car tuned? piggyback system? chipped ecu? standalone, what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I don't mind going to KC as long as the tune shop is good.

btw, Both tune shops are located in MN.
Any one have experience/heard about them?

1.Propolsion
2.Elite

Thanks.