I have a 1984 Honda Aero 125 moped and like 20 mins ago I just put a new starter motor on it. Before I replaced the starter, the old one wouldn't even turn. The starter relay would just click when I tried to start it.

After replacing the starter motor, it will turn ( the starter motor) but the actual motor of the moped doesn't do anything.

Any ideas/suggestions? The battery is charged, horn and blinker work fine. But when I turn the key, press on the brake and push the start button, the starter motor turns and that's it?

Is there any possible way I could have put the starter motor in wrong? I'm not sure how I could do that since you just slip it in there and match up two bolt holes.

HELP A MOPED-RETARDED GUY OUT

 

Anybody? Come on guys, I need help!

 

sounds like the starter isnt grabbing the flywheel to turn the motor over. I would check installation again.

 

Okay, well I took the starter motor out and there was a metal ring that restricted it from coming out far enough to catch the starter..... if that makes sense?

Well, the moped FINALLY works, expect for when it starts it runs at WOT and I can't figure out why. I checked the throttle cable and all that **** but who knows. Just another ******* problem lol.

 

glad you got it started.

 

God damnit. The moped starts fine now, but after it starts it just runs at WOT and sounds like it will blowup if I don't turn it off? Any advice from anyone now???

The throttle cable works. I can see it moving inside the motor when I twist the throttle. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

 

check the butterfly on the carb or throttle body whatever it has...sounds like something might be holding it open...

 

Hmmmm.... how would you describe what a " butterfly " looks like. lol. Thanks for the replies guys

I had a friend drive next to me last night to clock it. Got going 60mph and was still climbing. Hello Darwin.

 

Its a two stroke right? Did you check it out and make sure theres no seals leaking? It runs fine at partial throttle? Did you take apart the carb and make sure the main jet is not clogged?

After you get it running good I'll run you for slips with my Yamaha!

 

It looks like a circular plate. When you open the throttle this plate opens and allows more air into the engine. if its stuck open then the engine will not idle at a proper RPM it will idle very high...

Sounds like you got it worked out though...60 seems pretty good for a moped.

 

$20 says his crank case seals are leaking some where. Any takers?

 

Just to clear up some confusion. After the moped starts, it will take off at full throttle, without even twisting the throttle. I plan on taking off the carb today and cleaning that out.

Someone mentioned something about the crank case seals..... after taking the crank case off to check the starter motor.... i did notice the seal was a little off-center and wasn't lining up right. I'll make sure sure to check that too, but why would that make the damn thing just take off at full speed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a two stroke right? Did you check it out and make sure theres no seals leaking? It runs fine at partial throttle? Did you take apart the carb and make sure the main jet is not clogged?

After you get it running good I'll run you for slips with my Yamaha!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it is a two stroke. I'll be taking apart the carb in a little while and cleaning it with carb cleaner.

As for the slips.... you are on!....... I mean, I don't know man, I would probably lose.......

 

Here is the same moped on ebay

The guy has a buy it now for 1,200 dollars. I bought mine with 2,000 miles on it for $150 and I have only spent like 250 buying new mirrors and panels and the starter motor. Not the best looking moped in the world, but it's fun as hell to ride

I'll check back in after I replace the spark plug, clean the carb, and check the throttle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92prelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'll make sure sure to check that too, but why would that make the damn thing just take off at full speed? </TD></TR></TABLE>

cause if air is getting in without going thru the throttle then the throttle is useless. if the thing takes off when started then its got a leak after the throttle. this is probably dangerous and will burn it up.

happens on 4-stroke engines when you do not install carbs properly and will burn a piston/valves.

 

I bought the same scooter for my wife (84 aero 125 - this model was avail in USA for only that year btw). Just did a total restore of ours, it's a pretty rare scoot now so I wanted to do that.

First, get yourself a service manual - then you can fix this thing up best.
It covers everything pretty well and will teach you about the scoot.

This scoots smaller carb doesn't use a "butterfly" valve, it uses a needle valve.
It is sticking open (probably due to improper assembly when you were messin with it). Make sure the spring, needle and slide cylinder, and guide clip are intact and installed properly. Make sure the needle and slide open and automatically close when testing the throttle (probably why it's WOT when you started it).
Then adjust the throttle cable (which also operates the auto 2-stroke oil feed - important)
See service manual - hard to describe in text.
Don't lose that clip install it correctly, make sure the slider is installed correctly and throttle cable is adjusted just right, the oil feed indicator is adjusted per spec, all via the adjust and base nuts for the throttle cable.
Should solve the WOT at start problem.

Other ****\tune up\maintanance:

- check your compression somewhere between 120-170 should be sufficient. Service manual calls for 171 (but that's a high approx typical of hondaback then). If it's bad, you probably got some bad scoring\ring seal happening OR a damaged\warped head gasket. Looking at a rebore, piston\ring set for the new rebore, and install if it's all scored up in there (or a new head gasket if not the case). Not that hard to do, but do it slow and right the first time.

- related to above. Make sure you have all your engine air cooling shrouds intact. Alternator fan shroud, engine shroud, etc and installed correctly. This is how your engine keeps cooler, so don't run it without these shrouds or risk buring it up everytime. See manual.

- Hearing or feeling any strange sound from tranny\clutch area?
This scoot has a record for final drive gears chewing up (due mainly to worn needle bearings actually on the tranny cover and opposite needle bearings on engine side of tranny). Make sure you're final drive (tranny) gasket is ok and holding oil, cover is sound and all bearings intact - REALLY INSPECT.
Cehck that you've got the reccomended 10w-40 sae (not 2-stroke) oil in there. See service manual, there are drain and fill screws on the tranny cover. Change that tranny oil EVERY YEAR (or even sooner I feel), fill in the fill screw hole until it starts to flow out the fill screw with scoot on center stand. I add a bit of lucas oil stabilizer in there - get's f'n hot in there.
The replacement gears aren't available anymore so stay on top of this.

- Use a decent 2-stroke oil in the oil resovoir and make sure it never runs out. I just use Hondas 2-stroke GNC (blue label) but some use synthetic. Avoid using any cheap 2-stroke oils.

- check the CVT (all pulley faces, roller weights, clutch\springs\main spring, drive belt).

- clean carb thoroughly (all jets and passages - everything). Remove all rubber parts (hoses, gaskets,etc) then use berrymans chem dip or berrymans B-12 carb clean. Blow out all passages with compressed air, reinstall correctly.

- install a new spark plug every year (or sooner) - important with 2-strokes.

- clean the foam air filter with hot water and soap, allow to dry. Then soak in 2-stroke oil and squeeze out excess really well. Reinstall. Dont break the foam filter, it slides off the filter holder.

- adjust air screw (on carb) to 1 3\4 turns out from closed (fac setting - and don't over tighten to closed position. Lightly turn to seat and close, then open to fac setting), then adjust in very small increments either way until you get the fastest idle. Back off a hair from fastest.
Then adjust idle screw to a proper idle speed.




Modified by jd99 at 3:52 PM 7/5/2004

 

you're doin better than me i cant seem to find the hot wire for my coil. but it sounds like falconGSR is right. check your carb

 

Damn.... thanks for all the good info.

Where do you order all your parts from? I have been looking online for a while but can't find anywhere. I'm stuck having to go to the honda place.

I took off the carburator and cleaned it with a shitload of carb cleaner and all that, then when I went to but the rubber ring back on it, it was too big. I think I might just order a new carb depending on the price of it.

 

Thats what I did to mine. Threw the old cv carb in the trash and slapped a flatslide on there.

 

Well, I finally got her to run pretty good. I did most of the stuff JD99 told me to do. I also ordered new gaskets for the carb. and a new seal for the crank case. I also took off the exhaust and torched that to try and clean it up a bit.

mos- you mentioned you threw the cv carb in the trash and put a flatside on there? could you explain that more? I would like to get rid of the carb thats on there and put something else on but I have no idea what would fit/work for better performance.

I have a guy who would like to buy it from me for $400 but i kind of want to play with it a while before I just sell it. $400 would be nice right now though. Going to college is going to suck.

 

Well if you dump the airbox, the only thing you need to worry about is the diameter of the carb spigot that pushes in to the rubber flange on your cylinder. As long as the flatslide spigot is about the same size as the oem carb, you should be able to use it. Also, you may have to resolder an end fitting on your throttle cable. The end fitting needed to be smaller on mine. Slap on a k&n and the rest is just dialing in the jetting. Tooning. This is the only part that really takes up any amount of time.

An new oem replacement carb is either not available, or its going to cost more than your whole scooter is worth. A used one is going to take forever to locate, and when you do find it, chances are it will be just as bad as the one you've got.

 

A picture of the carb.


The throttle needle or whatever you call it seems to be working fine.


Could this be the problem? I'm not sure its fitting into the carb correctly. Then again im not sure what it does.....

 

Looks to be some kind of automatic enrichener setup. The "choke."

Sucks. Your carb bolts onto your cylinder, therefore you will be unable to use most aftermarket carbs. Unless you use a rubbery adapter that bolts to the cylinder and allows the carb to push into it. Or you could just machine some thing out of aluminum that bolts to the cylinder and has a spigot sticking out, then use a piece of hose to couple your carb to the adapter.

I'm suprised a 125cc 2stroke is using a carb so small. I'm using a 28mm flatslide on mine, and its only a 175cc 4stroke.