we made it through half of practice today, but had to pull in after pace lap of qualifying and completely missed the race.

we NEED to make the race tomorrow! please help us figure out this problem!

car is a 1988 civic hatch std. 1st gen b16 swap, fully built. just recently converted the car from obd0 - obd1 using a boomslang harness. using obd 1 distributor and 4-wire O2.

here's the problem:

car seems to missfire, lose power, almost like the car has been stalled. this only happens at partial throttle. this happens under a load and sitting in neutral. car will run fine at around 50-100% throttle. when i am gradually getting back on the gas through a turn, this partial throttle failure will occur and once this happens engine looses all power and rpms drop no matter how much throttle. the only way to get around it is to push the clutch back in, rev the **** out of it, let clutch out, and floor it.

it is throwing a random VSS code, and speedo is jumping around.

already tried a new distributor, new conversion harness, new ecu (chipped p28) and chip

that's all of the symptoms/info i can think of now

ANY help is appreciated!

 

My first thought would be a TPS sensor (after years of use they can create flat spots on the contacts that will cause the signal to cut out). My next thought would be something in the dist....


Good luck

 

check your wiring on your o2, a wire may have gotten disconnected and is grounding itself out. the reason i say this is because i had a similar problem.

i got a vss code, fuse blew, speedo would sometimes work and at other times not work, vtec didn't work until about 7 grand. come to found out my secondary o2 was sorting out to the exhaust.

 

try with another map sensor, but i also think is the TPS.

 

buy a massive jeep and crush the competition!

or check the tps... really good suggestion... put your voltmeter on it and test it with the key on and car off while gradually pressing and depressing the pedal.... or you can unplug the harness and measure the resistance across the... damn it i forget which pins... someone help me out here.... either way, just play with it and see which two pins show fluctuation while adjusting throttle position.... it should be continuous and smooth... if it jumps a lot (press pedal slowly if you've got a meter that has a delay before it displays... most do) time to replace that tps.

i'd also consider checking the crank angle sensor and dizzy.... easy to test tps though so do that first.

-Erik <---- who'd give up, go home, sell honda, and buy a jeep, haha

 

I CRUSH RICERS, haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik_Pb_Foot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I CRUSH RICERS, haha



</TD></TR></TABLE>

:WTF face:

dude, come on he needs help!

 

yea he does, he needs to get that jEEp of his jacked up and rednecked out!

-Erik &lt;---- who thinks Hunter has probably fixed it by now anyway

 

DANG if its not one thing its another - i hope by now you've got it figured out

 

double double check all the ground wires.

check the ground wire that is on the thermostat.

make sure all the grounds are tight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik_Pb_Foot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-Erik &lt;---- who thinks Hunter has probably fixed it by now anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>

problem SHOULD be fixed... we railed the pee pee out of it this afternoon and didn't show any sign of the problem.

now a new question... we adjusted the angle of the tps using the slots on the sensor... what is this supposed to do? it apparently fixed the problem... it seems as if it were designed to be adjusted for some reason.


Hunter - who's using road atlanta's wifi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hunter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now a new question... we adjusted the angle of the tps using the slots on the sensor... what is this supposed to do? it apparently fixed the problem... it seems as if it were designed to be adjusted for some reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, the only thing it does it raises the voltage or decreases, but the weird thing that i'm thinking right now is......the TPS on every honda i have seen are ribbeted(spel?) in place not like any other car that you have screws to adjust it.

Anyway, when you had WOT what where your readings like? it should be between 4.5V to 5.0V

 

my civic has sort of the same thing going on.not all the time but some times I will be just driving like a old man in town..(as to not get a ticket) and my car will putter for a sec and I have to stomp the gas.whats up with that?

 

I had that EXACT!!!! same problem with my b20.

problem was Fuel...or lack of it. I accidently was running D-series injectors instead of b-series.. so that sucked. i wasn't getting enough fuel or anything.


If you end up having that problem again check ur fuel.

 

now see I have a b18b1 in my 99 civic 4dr lx.but it didnt start happening till like 6 months ago. i need to change the plugs befor anything. go to the drag strip everyother week kills them fast.

 

the tps sensor on the usdm motors are riveted but the jdm motors are bolted on and they r slotted so u can adjust them to read right

 

the only thing we did was adjust the tps to the opposite extreme ( it was screwed not riveted on) and that seemed to clear up the problem.

problem is not fuel... running a walbro 255 pump w/ rc 310 injectors

 

oh ok cool deal.

 

actually they are screwed on on usdm motors too. they use tamperproof screws. all you need to do is catch the edge of the screw head with a chizel to get it started then unscrew it by hand.

 

yeah i called it a revit but its actually called a sheer bolt i believe