I'm just curious; I have(had) a big system in my 300zx and i'm wanting to take 2 of the woofers and my amp and put it in one of my big boxes (so its removeable) and put it in my 90si hatch just for the hell of it. My amp is a jbl bp1200.1 and it's fried 120 amp fuses before; I know the alternator can't supply that much juice but i have a optima red top i'm going to put in there to help out.

But anyway how big are our alterntors? and how much abuse can they take before they kill over dead.


Modified by ComputerJLT at 11:07 PM 6/17/2004

 

There are High outputs Alternators out there. But it cost way more than the average one.

 

They are crap, IMHO. Owned 88 CRX DX, 89 CRX SI.
Both of them had the alternator go around 180k miles with no extra loads.

Rebuilt ones from Murrays are junk, FYI. Had 4 of them fail for various different reasons. (diode pack, brushes loose, armature worn, regulator) This is in about 40k combined miles.

The rebuilt mitsubishi seem a bit more tolerant of abuse than the denso labeled ones, but I think the stock alternator is still better.

As far as upgrading it, haven't looked at it. I'm poor with no kick *** system like you. Put a capacitor next to it and call it good till you fry your alt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Labor_of_Love &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are crap, IMHO. Owned 88 CRX DX, 89 CRX SI.
Both of them had the alternator go around 180k miles with no extra loads.

Rebuilt ones from Murrays are junk, FYI. Had 4 of them fail for various different reasons. (diode pack, brushes loose, armature worn, regulator) This is in about 40k combined miles.

The rebuilt mitsubishi seem a bit more tolerant of abuse than the denso labeled ones, but I think the stock alternator is still better.

As far as upgrading it, haven't looked at it. I'm poor with no kick *** system like you. Put a capacitor next to it and call it good till you fry your alt.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had a cap but its crap; they're truly useless in most cases.
I fried a 60 and a 90 amp alternator in my Z with this stereo (my stock NA then a TT with like 40k miles i bought for cheap ) and i was working on the rebuilt version of the 60 amp one i had :D then the head gasket in that bitch blew &gt;


but yeah; i dont know if i'm going to put my stereo in there; if i do i may pick up a cheapo GM 1 wire and convert it and make it work if i melt this one. It's still the oe alternator and the engine it goes to (i'm asuming its the alt that came with the motor) has 145k miles so if it does go it'll go soon :-/

 

the system has to be pretty mighty to take out alternators....your average $500-$1000 POS systems don't do that :-D....dont forget to get an Optima deep cycle battery

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jester88Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the system has to be pretty mighty to take out alternators....your average $500-$1000 POS systems don't do that :-D....dont forget to get an Optima deep cycle battery </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey dipshit; how many cheapo systems melt 120 amp fuses?

i had a 100a breaker; tripped it all the time; bought a 120a fuse; melted 2 (kit came with them) of them after you'd listen for a while; bought a big *** ANL 150a fuse and so far so good.

 

here is my POS system...

 

that looks like a jbl 1200.1 which doesnt use that much power as far as amperage. The best way to upgrade your electrical system is to get a bigger alternator and better battery. Count the total amperage of your fuses(on the amp) and get an alternator to match that and you will no longer have a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hahagasdcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that looks like a jbl 1200.1 which doesnt use that much power as far as amperage. The best way to upgrade your electrical system is to get a bigger alternator and better battery. Count the total amperage of your fuses(on the amp) and get an alternator to match that and you will no longer have a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jeez what is up with this forum... is reading overrated now?
i've already said this thing is a 1200.1 and has melted 120a fuses...... that is a lot of ******* amps!

i just want to know how many amps the stock alternators are and how much abuse they can handle.

 

honda's have the smallest alternators of all cars made, they put out about 60amps at 2000RPMS..

 

Why dont you just get a capacitor or two? With a nice system like that you'd think you'd already have one. I say dont be cheap and hope your alternator can withstand the current and relieve it from all that juice with a good farad capacitor.

 

caps help for the initial "hit" when you first play the system, after that they are just a drain on the electrical system

 

I bought a 135 amp alt from ALTERSTART on ebay, they not just rewound oem ones that die shortly, there brand enw with a 3 year warranty

It holds my 2 1000 watt Clarion amps and my chassis neons

200 bucks and it solved all my problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hey dipshit; how many cheapo systems melt 120 amp fuses?

i had a 100a breaker; tripped it all the time; bought a 120a fuse; melted 2 (kit came with them) of them after you'd listen for a while; bought a big *** ANL 150a fuse and so far so good.</TD></TR></TABLE> you misunderstood me I wasn't talking about your system obviously 1200.1 is some serious power . just saying so everyone wont start thinking my alt is gonna fry AWW, when they have small systems.

 

mmmmm 48 amps of power..... sooooo Puny...... i tested the output on mine, 48amps price of quality high amp alternator, 250$+ ehhhh..... i wish they tought us how to rebuild and rewind a alt in school.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bought a 135 amp alt from ALTERSTART on ebay, they not just rewound oem ones that die shortly, there brand enw with a 3 year warranty

It holds my 2 1000 watt Clarion amps and my chassis neons

200 bucks and it solved all my problems</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what i had in my old setup i was running a JBL 1200.1,80.4,80.2 and never had a problem. To solve you fuse problem use a 150amp or bigger circuit breaker.

 

that tiny 1200.1 shouldn't pop even an 80 amp fuse. check your wiring and make sure its done right.. Unless you're burping your subs for extended periods of time, those fuses should not be blowing.

Also, are those shivas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vitrox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that tiny 1200.1 shouldn't pop even an 80 amp fuse. check your wiring and make sure its done right.. Unless you're burping your subs for extended periods of time, those fuses should not be blowing.

Also, are those shivas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes they are shivas; and this thing did burn up 2 120a fuses and would trip my 100a breaker if i turned the volume up very loud for very long.
i checked my voltage coming out of the amp with a true RMS multimeter and took a resistance reding with the woofers warm after a 20 second 50hz tone @ max power (for the woofers at least) and that amp was pushing about 1390somthing watts... REAL WATTS; not ebay poweracoustik amp watts.
even at 100% efficiency and a supply voltage of ~ 13v continous thats over 110amps of draw. you add in innefficiency and you will have blown 120a fuses.
what amazes me though, is the amp has 3x 40a blade fuses in the side; but those hav never blown. they got really freakin hot that time i tested the output but they've never blown.

 

For the clueless: It takes power to make power. The alts in our rexs/civics
will barely do 60 amps...basically just enough to run the stock equipment
in the car. Now add to this equation a upgraded audio system and its only a
matter of time before something fails not good. I have looked into upgraded
alternators ( Stinger/Ohio Generator / Irraggi / Powermaster ) 200-300 amps are going for $600.00 retail . Double ouch...but if this is what you need to
run all the gear and not run through bats and alts every few months..so be it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what amazes me though, is the amp has 3x 40a blade fuses in the side; but those hav never blown. they got really freakin hot that time i tested the output but they've never blown.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They wont, unless you **** up wiring it (I.E. wire power and ground backwards or something). The fuse's in the amp are designed to protect the amp, the fuse's in the power wire are to protect the wire and car's electrical system from melting down because of a short.

On a side note those BP1200.1's are beefy amp and have been tested at &gt;1400wrms @ 14.4v, still one of the best buys on the market as far as power goes.

 

You should be fine im running a 1500 watt sony xplod amp pushing 2 12inch 800watt pioneer IMPP woofers with 4 6inch 200 watt pioneer mids and 2 6 inch tvs and a DVD player... my alternator is a bosch 70amp and the full size yellow top optimia...no farad cap or any thing....4 guage amp kit and 2 100 fuses in the amp...all is great.

 

You're probably fine there Paybac because Sony Lies on its power claims....I'd be surprised if that amp got any more than 800 watts, MAX. As for the JBL, I'd suggest a 2 Farad Capacitor and a 120a alternator to go with that red top of yours, when it comes to electrical protection, the mores the merrier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paybac4223 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should be fine im running a 1500 watt sony xplod amp pushing 2 12inch 800watt pioneer IMPP woofers with 4 6inch 200 watt pioneer mids and 2 6 inch tvs and a DVD player... my alternator is a bosch 70amp and the full size yellow top optimia...no farad cap or any thing....4 guage amp kit and 2 100 fuses in the amp...all is great. </TD></TR></TABLE>

1500w my ***

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paybac4223 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should be fine im running a 1500 watt sony xplod amp pushing 2 12inch 800watt pioneer IMPP woofers with 4 6inch 200 watt pioneer mids and 2 6 inch tvs and a DVD player... my alternator is a bosch 70amp and the full size yellow top optimia...no farad cap or any thing....4 guage amp kit and 2 100 fuses in the amp...all is great. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sony Xplod is trash.....hes running a mono block 1200watt amp...much more power than a 1500watt (PEAK) sony xplod

 

i just noticed i said "out" instead of "our"


:-/ oops