daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0!
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From: drink for health
daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0!
i picked up these nice lugnuts from bluer tonight. you can see the obvious weight advantages. they are also open ended for extended studs and have a knurled end to help get them on/off by hand. if you want them, im bluer and he'll hook you up.
da stock
locking lugnut
mcgard lugnuts from summit, big black bitches!
daiyama sweetness
the product
da stock
locking lugnut
mcgard lugnuts from summit, big black bitches!
daiyama sweetness
the product
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From: drink for health
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (magic hat #9)
red x! oh well, you'll have to wait until wee-todd gets moving again.
the cliff notes: stock lugnuts = 30g, stock locking nuts = 52g, daiyama = 22g
the cliff notes: stock lugnuts = 30g, stock locking nuts = 52g, daiyama = 22g
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From: Mustafar
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (magic hat #9)
Are they tapered-seat, or stock "acorn" style? If they're tapered, they shouldn't be used with stock Honda/Acura wheels. 
From what you described, they do sound nice though, and of course there's the ~ 1/3 lb. total weight reduction.
From what you described, they do sound nice though, and of course there's the ~ 1/3 lb. total weight reduction.
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Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (Mr.Fairlady)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Fairlady »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much(even though I can't see ****)---and are the Acorn?? COLORS?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are conical and only for use with aftermarket wheels (with conical seats). the lugnuts are "titanium gold," otherwise known as gunmetal.
it's strange because the pictures show up fine on wee-todd but not here
they are conical and only for use with aftermarket wheels (with conical seats). the lugnuts are "titanium gold," otherwise known as gunmetal.
it's strange because the pictures show up fine on wee-todd but not here
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the skunk2 lugs, which are pretty similar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Come to think of it, he's run off w/my Skunk2 lug nuts, too.
Come to think of it, he's run off w/my Skunk2 lug nuts, too.
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Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (Padawan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are they tapered-seat, or stock "acorn" style? If they're tapered, they shouldn't be used with stock Honda/Acura wheels.
From what you described, they do sound nice though, and of course there's the ~ 1/3 lb. total weight reduction. </TD></TR></TABLE>
1/3 lb total rotational weight reduction!
... what is that...actual 1lb dead weight loss? 
From what you described, they do sound nice though, and of course there's the ~ 1/3 lb. total weight reduction.
</TD></TR></TABLE>1/3 lb total rotational weight reduction!
... what is that...actual 1lb dead weight loss?
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From: Mustafar
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (Captain Commando)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Captain Commando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1/3 lb total rotational weight reduction! ... what is that...actual 1lb dead weight loss? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Located that close to the center of rotation? Probably less.
1/3 lb total rotational weight reduction!
... what is that...actual 1lb dead weight loss? </TD></TR></TABLE>Located that close to the center of rotation? Probably less.
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Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (Padawan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Located that close to the center of rotation? Probably less. </TD></TR></TABLE>
think weight savings + longer lug nut to bite onto more stud threads + open ended for longer studs + sweet color = the shizzy, y0!
Located that close to the center of rotation? Probably less.
</TD></TR></TABLE>think weight savings + longer lug nut to bite onto more stud threads + open ended for longer studs + sweet color = the shizzy, y0!
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (magic hat #9)
If you are after these and trying to decide, I'd get the Daiyama before the Skunk.
The Daiyama have a very definite and easy to use grippy area that makes them easier to get on and take off than the Skunk2.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magic hat #9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">longer lug nut to bite onto more stud threads + open ended for longer studs </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, you won't bit into more stud threads unless you have longer studs.
If you get longer studs, you do introduce some other issues. A Porsche instructor talked me into getting longer studs for the ITR, and cited a couple of valid reasons.
You never stop to really think about things like this, but the advantages of having the longer studs for the average recreational track user is offset by how much longer it's going to take to change your wheels.
Moreover, since a lot of us resort to power tools of some kind in this event, your power tool will cause the lug nut to continue to put pressure on the extended stud as you wind it off and wind it on.
This causes a gradual stripping of the threads of whichever item has the softer metal (lug or lug nut) and you will eventually find yourself with a frustrating experience if you're not very careful.
Also, when you find yourself graduating to a racing class (for those few of us who intend to do that), you will be asked questions if your lug nuts do not entirely cover the studs. It's considered an additional safety problem in some series.
I had extended studs (Skunk2) and extended lug nuts (Skunk2 and Daiyama) last season.
It was just too much trouble, and since the car was going to be in the shop for a long time anyway, we switched back to shorter studs and regular lug nuts.
We do not feel especially slower as a result.
The Daiyama have a very definite and easy to use grippy area that makes them easier to get on and take off than the Skunk2.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magic hat #9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">longer lug nut to bite onto more stud threads + open ended for longer studs </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, you won't bit into more stud threads unless you have longer studs.
If you get longer studs, you do introduce some other issues. A Porsche instructor talked me into getting longer studs for the ITR, and cited a couple of valid reasons.
You never stop to really think about things like this, but the advantages of having the longer studs for the average recreational track user is offset by how much longer it's going to take to change your wheels.
Moreover, since a lot of us resort to power tools of some kind in this event, your power tool will cause the lug nut to continue to put pressure on the extended stud as you wind it off and wind it on.
This causes a gradual stripping of the threads of whichever item has the softer metal (lug or lug nut) and you will eventually find yourself with a frustrating experience if you're not very careful.
Also, when you find yourself graduating to a racing class (for those few of us who intend to do that), you will be asked questions if your lug nuts do not entirely cover the studs. It's considered an additional safety problem in some series.
I had extended studs (Skunk2) and extended lug nuts (Skunk2 and Daiyama) last season.
It was just too much trouble, and since the car was going to be in the shop for a long time anyway, we switched back to shorter studs and regular lug nuts.
We do not feel especially slower as a result.
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From: Jasma
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Moreover, since a lot of us resort to power tools of some kind in this event, your power tool will cause the lug nut to continue to put pressure on the extended stud as you wind it off and wind it on.
This causes a gradual stripping of the threads of whichever item has the softer metal (lug or lug nut) and you will eventually find yourself with a frustrating experience if you're not very careful.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I find that reasoning a bit dubious. The winding/unwinding of the lugnut shouldn't put any significant stress on the stud (as long as the threads are clean.) Was this just a theory, or has this ever happen to anyone?
Matt
Moreover, since a lot of us resort to power tools of some kind in this event, your power tool will cause the lug nut to continue to put pressure on the extended stud as you wind it off and wind it on.
This causes a gradual stripping of the threads of whichever item has the softer metal (lug or lug nut) and you will eventually find yourself with a frustrating experience if you're not very careful.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I find that reasoning a bit dubious. The winding/unwinding of the lugnut shouldn't put any significant stress on the stud (as long as the threads are clean.) Was this just a theory, or has this ever happen to anyone?
Matt
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (El Pollo Diablo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I find that reasoning a bit dubious. The winding/unwinding of the lugnut shouldn't put any significant stress on the stud (as long as the threads are clean.) Was this just a theory, or has this ever happen to anyone?
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, it happened to me. You're right that winding/unwinding by hand doesn't put much pressure on the studs.
However, after a while, the kids will talk you into investing in power equipment, and I theorise that what caused the problems is that they could not use the power tool to take the lug nuts straight on and off the way you would by hand.
I think that the power tool would put undue pressure on the studs as the lug nuts were put on and taken off, until the threads were damaged enough to make putting on and taking off the lug nuts a problem.
Corey witnessed this...you can ask him what he thinks caused it, but that's what I think.
Good job always questioning, Matt. A lot of weird theories get spread around Honda Tech without any real proof or even evidence.
I find that reasoning a bit dubious. The winding/unwinding of the lugnut shouldn't put any significant stress on the stud (as long as the threads are clean.) Was this just a theory, or has this ever happen to anyone?
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, it happened to me. You're right that winding/unwinding by hand doesn't put much pressure on the studs.
However, after a while, the kids will talk you into investing in power equipment, and I theorise that what caused the problems is that they could not use the power tool to take the lug nuts straight on and off the way you would by hand.
I think that the power tool would put undue pressure on the studs as the lug nuts were put on and taken off, until the threads were damaged enough to make putting on and taking off the lug nuts a problem.
Corey witnessed this...you can ask him what he thinks caused it, but that's what I think.
Good job always questioning, Matt. A lot of weird theories get spread around Honda Tech without any real proof or even evidence.
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From: Jasma
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, it happened to me. You're right that winding/unwinding by hand doesn't put much pressure on the studs.
However, after a while, the kids will talk you into investing in power equipment, and I theorise that what caused the problems is that they could not use the power tool to take the lug nuts straight on and off the way you would by hand.
I think that the power tool would put undue pressure on the studs as the lug nuts were put on and taken off, until the threads were damaged enough to make putting on and taking off the lug nuts a problem.
Corey witnessed this...you can ask him what he thinks caused it, but that's what I think.
Good job always questioning, Matt. A lot of weird theories get spread around Honda Tech without any real proof or even evidence.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What kind of power t00l are we talking about here? Were the lugnuts started by hand? Were the threads clean? What stripped, the lugnuts or the stud?
-Matt, who is full of questions today
Yes, it happened to me. You're right that winding/unwinding by hand doesn't put much pressure on the studs.
However, after a while, the kids will talk you into investing in power equipment, and I theorise that what caused the problems is that they could not use the power tool to take the lug nuts straight on and off the way you would by hand.
I think that the power tool would put undue pressure on the studs as the lug nuts were put on and taken off, until the threads were damaged enough to make putting on and taking off the lug nuts a problem.
Corey witnessed this...you can ask him what he thinks caused it, but that's what I think.
Good job always questioning, Matt. A lot of weird theories get spread around Honda Tech without any real proof or even evidence.
</TD></TR></TABLE>What kind of power t00l are we talking about here? Were the lugnuts started by hand? Were the threads clean? What stripped, the lugnuts or the stud?
-Matt, who is full of questions today
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (El Pollo Diablo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What kind of power t00l are we talking about here? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Some kind of electric impact thing. It was expensive. High voltage battery so it can be used at events.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were the lugnuts started by hand?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Were the threads clean? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sometimes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What stripped, the lugnuts or the stud?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It must've been the studs, because Corey is still using my Daiyama and Skunk2 lug nuts and he's not complaining.
What kind of power t00l are we talking about here? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Some kind of electric impact thing. It was expensive. High voltage battery so it can be used at events.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were the lugnuts started by hand?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Were the threads clean? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sometimes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What stripped, the lugnuts or the stud?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It must've been the studs, because Corey is still using my Daiyama and Skunk2 lug nuts and he's not complaining.
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Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, it happened to me. You're right that winding/unwinding by hand doesn't put much pressure on the studs.
However, after a while, the kids will talk you into investing in power equipment, and I theorise that what caused the problems is that they could not use the power tool to take the lug nuts straight on and off the way you would by hand.
I think that the power tool would put undue pressure on the studs as the lug nuts were put on and taken off, until the threads were damaged enough to make putting on and taking off the lug nuts a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
GK, I think the problem is the stud quality, not them being longer.
The Skunk2 studs are junk. I broke 3 out of 5 in one hub. I ended up getting the Spoon stronger and 10mm longer studs and never have a problem since.
My poor lug nuts:
However, after a while, the kids will talk you into investing in power equipment, and I theorise that what caused the problems is that they could not use the power tool to take the lug nuts straight on and off the way you would by hand.
I think that the power tool would put undue pressure on the studs as the lug nuts were put on and taken off, until the threads were damaged enough to make putting on and taking off the lug nuts a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
GK, I think the problem is the stud quality, not them being longer.
The Skunk2 studs are junk. I broke 3 out of 5 in one hub. I ended up getting the Spoon stronger and 10mm longer studs and never have a problem since.
My poor lug nuts:
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From: drink for health
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (Wai)
i use a lower power cordless drill to take the lugnuts off/on. it's so underpowered i must break the lugnuts loose and i always torque them properly. no stud problems, although i do now have arp studs.
can anyone host the lugnut pictures for me? i can email them right over, thanks!
can anyone host the lugnut pictures for me? i can email them right over, thanks!
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From: Siege Perilous
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (Wai)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
GK, I think the problem is the stud quality, not them being longer.
The Skunk2 studs are junk. I broke 3 out of 5 in one hub. I ended up getting the Spoon stronger and 10mm longer studs and never have a problem since.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. I never even looked at Spoon, but I'll do that next time I want longer studs.
GK, I think the problem is the stud quality, not them being longer.
The Skunk2 studs are junk. I broke 3 out of 5 in one hub. I ended up getting the Spoon stronger and 10mm longer studs and never have a problem since.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. I never even looked at Spoon, but I'll do that next time I want longer studs.
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From: IL
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (George Knighton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks. I never even looked at Spoon, but I'll do that next time I want longer studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unfortunately Spoon has discontinued those a while ago....
However, johng found a really good alternative OEM part that sure exceeds the quality of the Skunk2 studs (previsouly called Z-Speed) --- TL rear studs as .RJ mentioned:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=244036
Modified by Wai at 3:57 PM 6/15/2004
Thanks. I never even looked at Spoon, but I'll do that next time I want longer studs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Unfortunately Spoon has discontinued those a while ago....
However, johng found a really good alternative OEM part that sure exceeds the quality of the Skunk2 studs (previsouly called Z-Speed) --- TL rear studs as .RJ mentioned:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=244036
Modified by Wai at 3:57 PM 6/15/2004
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: daiyama lug nuts - the lightness, y0! (Wai)
ARP studs are really nice also - they've got a non-threaded portion at the end of the stud that makes it much easier to get the lugs on.