Advance Auto Parts, brake Rotors??
yes. all the time, on my PS-1 Ford Probe. they tend to last about 3 sets of race brake pads (about 5 to 6 days). then they generally crack completely thru to the hub. a standard wear item, in my opinion.
they are less than $30 for the Probe, which seems really good, considering the pads are over $100 a set and only last 2 days!!!!
they are less than $30 for the Probe, which seems really good, considering the pads are over $100 a set and only last 2 days!!!!
thanks!! I'm using brembo blanks right now and get 7 to 8 track days before they cracked all the way through at $50 a pop. I'm going to give the Advance auto parts rotors a try then...
My brake pads tend to last about 5 days, and I thought that was bad.
My brake pads tend to last about 5 days, and I thought that was bad.

Advance quoted me about $50/rotor last year for the same brand I got at Car Parts Warehouse for $17.25 a piece. They were autospecialty, and I've had no problems with them through about 18,000 miles of driving and 13 autocrosses.
Found the cheapest rotor from a lcl shop here in ABQ. Fronts were 23.33, rears are 20.14. Ran a full season last year on them. Only thing i did not like is the rusty hat syndrome. Painted the new ones with walmart bar-b-que pit flat black, good to 1200 deg.
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Hey Walter - this is Dave, the guy that was hanging out with your brother at Beaverun last weekend. Thanks for some of those tips.
So none of you guys warp these cheapy rotors? I screwed my brembos up after 2 days at Beaverun but I didn't have track pads, just Ultimates (pad material transfer??). I tried a few hard stops to see if anything would burn off but no luck. Has anyone had luck with that special paper you can supposedly use (I forgot the name - not sand paper). Guess I should just try that or a re-surface
Modified by Yield at 7:27 PM 6/12/2004
So none of you guys warp these cheapy rotors? I screwed my brembos up after 2 days at Beaverun but I didn't have track pads, just Ultimates (pad material transfer??). I tried a few hard stops to see if anything would burn off but no luck. Has anyone had luck with that special paper you can supposedly use (I forgot the name - not sand paper). Guess I should just try that or a re-surface
Modified by Yield at 7:27 PM 6/12/2004
We used autozone $25 rotors for race #6 at Willow Springs since our Power Slots had hairline stress cracking... rotors seemed to work just as good. No warping, good wear.
looks like i know what i'm putting on my crx now
have the Axxis ultimates ready and waiting, just need the rotors. quick question, if my rotors war do i need to replace the pads with them?
have the Axxis ultimates ready and waiting, just need the rotors. quick question, if my rotors war do i need to replace the pads with them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick question, if my rotors war do i need to replace the pads with them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope. My rotors "wear" quite a bit and pads area always fine
I'm on my 3rd set of rotors this year...

Nope. My rotors "wear" quite a bit and pads area always fine

I'm on my 3rd set of rotors this year...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if my rotors war do i need to replace the pads with them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like RJ stated. Additionally, your pads will need to set (bed-in) to the new rotor. Usually 3-500 miles on street use but much less on race use. Basically a new rotor should be perfectly milled so your pad will now have to wear even with the rotor since they were previously bed-in on your old rotors which probably weren't perfectly milled.
Like RJ stated. Additionally, your pads will need to set (bed-in) to the new rotor. Usually 3-500 miles on street use but much less on race use. Basically a new rotor should be perfectly milled so your pad will now have to wear even with the rotor since they were previously bed-in on your old rotors which probably weren't perfectly milled.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KENLUDE97 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Will the OEM ones last longer? I know that they are $$.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Who needs OEM with all the cheap Brembos out there
Jon
(who warps/cracks 'em all... but seems to get longer out of Brembos)
Who needs OEM with all the cheap Brembos out there
Jon
(who warps/cracks 'em all... but seems to get longer out of Brembos)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KENLUDE97 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Will the OEM ones last longer? I know that they are $$.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
No point in getting one more race out of it for $30 more.
No point in getting one more race out of it for $30 more.
I use the Aimco brand rotors from AutoZone for $21.99 a pop (10.3" Integra rotor). I have two sets sitting in my garage, each with two track days on them; I was using Cobalt Spec-B pads and there's a lot of wear on the rotors, but no cracking. I might try another day on each set...
But beware of the ValuCraft brand (also available at AutoZone)... They were only $15.99 each for me, but they cracked all the way through from not even 2 months of street driving and 1 or 2 autocrosses; pads were Axxis Ultimates. Total junk if you ask me.
I stick to the Aimco rotors and love them.
But beware of the ValuCraft brand (also available at AutoZone)... They were only $15.99 each for me, but they cracked all the way through from not even 2 months of street driving and 1 or 2 autocrosses; pads were Axxis Ultimates. Total junk if you ask me.
I stick to the Aimco rotors and love them.
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