Any pros and cons on Mugen 26mm sway bars??
Con's ... they've been backordered through King for MONTHS!
Depending on which car you put it on and which suspension you're using, watch out for a bit of extra oversteer.
Depending on which car you put it on and which suspension you're using, watch out for a bit of extra oversteer.
The current shipment of Mugen 26mm rear sway bars at King Motorsports is the last. They are no longer available. I ordered mine in February, and received it the end of May.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomcat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The current shipment of Mugen 26mm rear sway bars at King Motorsports is the last. They are no longer available. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info.
I just made arrangements to get a used one from Kelly (kkim).
Mahalo â nui
Ed
P.S. Looks like I'll be calling Scott at King tomorrow and canceling that bar order/crediting my account.
Thanks for the info.
I just made arrangements to get a used one from Kelly (kkim).
Mahalo â nui
Ed
P.S. Looks like I'll be calling Scott at King tomorrow and canceling that bar order/crediting my account.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoonR617 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone with Mugen 26mm sway bars, how do you like it? Pros and cons?</TD></TR></TABLE>
probably not necessary.
probably not necessary.
in most cases i think its overkill. however i am the minority on this one though. I think it (the sway bar size) should correlate with your spring rates.
ex if your running 550lbs springs in the rear i thinks its way over kill and to much sway bar. now i have absolutely no factual evidence for my opinion, and i have no degree in physics, and im not a pro-race car driver, im just a road racing enthusiast. So take it for what you will.
I was running 250lbs springs in the rear (OTC GC Integra coilovers) and I have a 19mm bar which I felt complemented everything nicely, I have since increased my rear spring rates to 450lbs, I haven’t driven the car like this yet, but I will see how it feels and work form there.
I guess im one for having suspension parts that work well together.
ex if your running 550lbs springs in the rear i thinks its way over kill and to much sway bar. now i have absolutely no factual evidence for my opinion, and i have no degree in physics, and im not a pro-race car driver, im just a road racing enthusiast. So take it for what you will.
I was running 250lbs springs in the rear (OTC GC Integra coilovers) and I have a 19mm bar which I felt complemented everything nicely, I have since increased my rear spring rates to 450lbs, I haven’t driven the car like this yet, but I will see how it feels and work form there.
I guess im one for having suspension parts that work well together.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in most cases i think its overkill. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a lot cheaper to just switch the spring rates. Even buying more expensive springs and having somebody else install them is cheaper than the purchase of the swaybars.
At some point, you will want to be careful about transferring the load to the other side.
For example, if you're already up around 800# in the rear, you will probably want to go to a thicker swaybar at the same time or even before you go with heavier springs in the rear.
IMHO the issue is that you're making the springs carry more of the load than they'd necessarily have to, thereby decreasing the effectiveness of the spring rate change.
I have 700# in the rear and would probably go w/a different swaybar if I wanted to up the spring rate from there.
Certainly, if you're on stock springs, I would change the spring rates to 400/500 before I even considered buying the Mugen swaybar(s).
This is all in my humble opinion, based on feeling and not mathematical Scott-like analysis, your mileage may vary, standard disclaimer applies, and in the event of capture Her Majesty disavows any knowledge of the operation.
It's a lot cheaper to just switch the spring rates. Even buying more expensive springs and having somebody else install them is cheaper than the purchase of the swaybars.
At some point, you will want to be careful about transferring the load to the other side.
For example, if you're already up around 800# in the rear, you will probably want to go to a thicker swaybar at the same time or even before you go with heavier springs in the rear.
IMHO the issue is that you're making the springs carry more of the load than they'd necessarily have to, thereby decreasing the effectiveness of the spring rate change.
I have 700# in the rear and would probably go w/a different swaybar if I wanted to up the spring rate from there.
Certainly, if you're on stock springs, I would change the spring rates to 400/500 before I even considered buying the Mugen swaybar(s).
This is all in my humble opinion, based on feeling and not mathematical Scott-like analysis, your mileage may vary, standard disclaimer applies, and in the event of capture Her Majesty disavows any knowledge of the operation.
I guess you forgot about last time you asked. there was a bunch of good thoughts. comment and advice.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=892632
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=892632
just installed mine last weekend.
setup:
zeal b6 10kg/mm front, 6kg/mm rear
front and rear upper strut tower bars
26mm rear mugen sway
probably the best mod i have done yet. car feels planted during turns and feels as if on "rails".
i've yet to drive it on the track. i'm sure i'll be "tuning" it then; adjusting the front/rear damper settings, tire pressures, etc. can't wait till that day!
all in all, i don't see any real cons (unless you dial in too much oversteer) to the 26mm rear mugen sway. great upgrade for the money!
kepani-who couldn't wait for kms and got his used.
setup:
zeal b6 10kg/mm front, 6kg/mm rear
front and rear upper strut tower bars
26mm rear mugen sway
probably the best mod i have done yet. car feels planted during turns and feels as if on "rails".
i've yet to drive it on the track. i'm sure i'll be "tuning" it then; adjusting the front/rear damper settings, tire pressures, etc. can't wait till that day!

all in all, i don't see any real cons (unless you dial in too much oversteer) to the 26mm rear mugen sway. great upgrade for the money!
kepani-who couldn't wait for kms and got his used.

The Mugen 26mm rear sway adds a fair amount of oversteer when combined with my Mugen Lowdown suspension. Working on getting a new alignment and adjusting the front and rear camber. I am going to start with -2 degrees front and -1.5 in the rear. I am running Hoosier R3S04s, which require significant negative camber. Primary use for the car is HPDE, not daily driven.
setup:
Mugen Lowdowns
Mugen 26mm Rear Sway
JDM Front Tower Bar
Spoon Rear Tower Bar
Conptech Rear Lower Tie Bar
Skunk2 Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms (new style)
SPC Rear Camber Kit (not installed yet)
setup:
Mugen Lowdowns
Mugen 26mm Rear Sway
JDM Front Tower Bar
Spoon Rear Tower Bar
Conptech Rear Lower Tie Bar
Skunk2 Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms (new style)
SPC Rear Camber Kit (not installed yet)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomcat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Mugen 26mm rear sway adds a fair amount of oversteer when combined with my Mugen Lowdown suspension. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Then, I'd suggest adding the 26mm front Mugen bar as well.
Then, I'd suggest adding the 26mm front Mugen bar as well.
I have the Mugen 22mm bar. I've had nothing but bad luck with it, and it was even installed by King. I've had both sides of the bar rip out of the sub-frame, and now have a busted bracket. However, when it is actually connected to the car, it works great.
The car is lowered with H&R Sport springs, so I'm rather surprised at my issues.
The car is lowered with H&R Sport springs, so I'm rather surprised at my issues.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shmeek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the Mugen 22mm bar. I've had nothing but bad luck with it, and it was even installed by King. I've had both sides of the bar rip out of the sub-frame, and now have a busted bracket. However, when it is actually connected to the car, it works great.
The car is lowered with H&R Sport springs, so I'm rather surprised at my issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It may be your (relatively) soft lowering springs that are causing the bar to be overworked relative to the rest of the suspension and end up breaking things... perhaps, try controlling body roll with stiffer springs and use the bar to tune vehicle balance?
FWIW, my car has been running a 22mm Progress bar with a BSQ mount kit for several years with no problems.
Christian, who hasn't heard about subframe rip-outs on cars that run higher rate springs...
The car is lowered with H&R Sport springs, so I'm rather surprised at my issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It may be your (relatively) soft lowering springs that are causing the bar to be overworked relative to the rest of the suspension and end up breaking things... perhaps, try controlling body roll with stiffer springs and use the bar to tune vehicle balance?
FWIW, my car has been running a 22mm Progress bar with a BSQ mount kit for several years with no problems.
Christian, who hasn't heard about subframe rip-outs on cars that run higher rate springs...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shmeek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the Mugen 22mm bar. I've had nothing but bad luck with it, and it was even installed by King. I've had both sides of the bar rip out of the sub-frame, and now have a busted bracket. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Was this on an ITR?
I've heard of problems like this when people don't use the reinforcement kit when ugraded bars are used w/o stuff like the BSQ kit.
I'd guess this could be one of the "Cons".
Was this on an ITR?
I've heard of problems like this when people don't use the reinforcement kit when ugraded bars are used w/o stuff like the BSQ kit.
I'd guess this could be one of the "Cons".
With the stock ITR spoiler and stock ITR rear swaybar there was nice rotation IMO. But with the Mugen spoiler, it was harder to induce the same amount of oversteer at higher speeds. With the 26mm swaybar, the car rotated very nicely, both at low and high speeds.
This is with Zeal Super Functions, 14k in the front, 18k in the back. RA1s were used.
This is with Zeal Super Functions, 14k in the front, 18k in the back. RA1s were used.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Was this on an ITR?
I've heard of problems like this when people don't use the reinforcement kit when ugraded bars are used w/o stuff like the BSQ kit.
I'd guess this could be one of the "Cons". </TD></TR></TABLE>
This was on a GSR. When I had King do the install, I asked them about all the tear outs that were happening and they said I'd have no problems with my H&R Sports (note these are not the H&R OE Sports that perhaps Xian was referring to). King claimed it to be the stock spring rates that people were having problems with. Even so, they claimed to build some reinforcement.
Short story is that they didn't, and so it ripped out. When I took it back for them to fix (which they did for free) they also then claimed to put some extra reinforcement on the other side, in addition to the side they fixed.
Another short story is that they again didn't. The unreinforced side ripped out. Again, they fixed it for free. Great job on the welding, although they didn't paint it and it's now rusted, and it required two vacations days for me to make a trip to their shop.
Needless to say, it's doubltful I'll be back to King anytime soon. And I'm still considering dumping the Mugen bar to go with the Comptech Sway/Tie Bar combo.
Was this on an ITR?
I've heard of problems like this when people don't use the reinforcement kit when ugraded bars are used w/o stuff like the BSQ kit.
I'd guess this could be one of the "Cons". </TD></TR></TABLE>
This was on a GSR. When I had King do the install, I asked them about all the tear outs that were happening and they said I'd have no problems with my H&R Sports (note these are not the H&R OE Sports that perhaps Xian was referring to). King claimed it to be the stock spring rates that people were having problems with. Even so, they claimed to build some reinforcement.
Short story is that they didn't, and so it ripped out. When I took it back for them to fix (which they did for free) they also then claimed to put some extra reinforcement on the other side, in addition to the side they fixed.
Another short story is that they again didn't. The unreinforced side ripped out. Again, they fixed it for free. Great job on the welding, although they didn't paint it and it's now rusted, and it required two vacations days for me to make a trip to their shop.
Needless to say, it's doubltful I'll be back to King anytime soon. And I'm still considering dumping the Mugen bar to go with the Comptech Sway/Tie Bar combo.
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jr_istheman
Acura Integra Type-R
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Jun 4, 2003 08:33 PM




