My LS build!!!!! Its close to being done.
Here is my LS build so far, it still needs some stuff like um installation, which I will do when I get free time.

Yeah the cam seal is a lil crooked, the insignia will prolly wear off anyways.

MMMMmmm Bumpsticks dual valve springs, titanium retainers, you can KIND OF see my port and polish, Ill get more pics of that later

Oh Skunk 2 gears

Sexy DIY valve cover

OMG I love this wrench, best 250 bux Ive ever spent!!! It does N/M In/Lbs and Ft/Lbs
Ported and polished B20 head
crower dual valve springs
crower titanium retainers
crower 403 cams
skunk 2 cam gears
Hondata IM gasket
3 angle valve job
DC JDM 4-1
carsound 2.5 high flow cat
2.36 cat back
Magna flow muffler
(still need resonator)
SAFC
Custom designed and hand made by me and my friend who does CF work intake / icebox (dont ask yet)

Yeah the cam seal is a lil crooked, the insignia will prolly wear off anyways.

MMMMmmm Bumpsticks dual valve springs, titanium retainers, you can KIND OF see my port and polish, Ill get more pics of that later

Oh Skunk 2 gears

Sexy DIY valve cover


OMG I love this wrench, best 250 bux Ive ever spent!!! It does N/M In/Lbs and Ft/Lbs
Ported and polished B20 head
crower dual valve springs
crower titanium retainers
crower 403 cams
skunk 2 cam gears
Hondata IM gasket
3 angle valve job
DC JDM 4-1
carsound 2.5 high flow cat
2.36 cat back
Magna flow muffler
(still need resonator)
SAFC
Custom designed and hand made by me and my friend who does CF work intake / icebox (dont ask yet)
Well as of now the bottom end is staying stock because it is my daily driver and I cant afford the down time, cuz I drive 45 miles one way to school, AND I am pretty much broke now also cuz of school. But if I ever get the money together I want to do a B20 with higher compression pistons. Or I might boost on this set up since Ive heard of people boosting on 404's
You know you will have to pull the cam caps and cams to bolt the head on right? 
Looks good though.
Did you mill the head at all, or plan on running a thinner head gasket?

Looks good though.
Did you mill the head at all, or plan on running a thinner head gasket?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know you will have to pull the cam caps and cams to bolt the head on right? 
Looks good though.
Did you mill the head at all, or plan on running a thinner head gasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe yeah I know that now, This was my first actual build, and I got done and my buddy came over and says, "You gotta pull it apart to put it on anyways" so I learned something new
By the way style teg your my hero!!! haha all motor LS 
I dont think I am gunna run the thinner head gasket only because I already bought the OEM head gasket, and the head was just trued not machined, I am not too sure if I wanna go with a B20 block and all motor or SC I am building it hopefully to do track racing if I can get time.
DC Lefty - I do like the mugen lip its all sanded and ready to go but I need to save money for paint
<-------good seller BTW guys

Looks good though.
Did you mill the head at all, or plan on running a thinner head gasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe yeah I know that now, This was my first actual build, and I got done and my buddy came over and says, "You gotta pull it apart to put it on anyways" so I learned something new
By the way style teg your my hero!!! haha all motor LS 
I dont think I am gunna run the thinner head gasket only because I already bought the OEM head gasket, and the head was just trued not machined, I am not too sure if I wanna go with a B20 block and all motor or SC I am building it hopefully to do track racing if I can get time.
DC Lefty - I do like the mugen lip its all sanded and ready to go but I need to save money for paint
<-------good seller BTW guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thrillhouse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> By the way style teg your my hero!!! haha all motor LS
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, thanks. I try
You can easily pull the middle layer out of your OEM headgasket. In fact thats really the only way to get a thinner headgasket for the B18B (that I know of). When you use cams with more duration, you bleed off more compression since the intake valve is left slightly open during the compression stroke. Because of this it is a really good idea to up the compression to compensate for it. (This is referred to as dynamic compression).
Of course you don't have too, and its not dangerous not to or anything, its just a good idea for performance
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol, thanks. I try

You can easily pull the middle layer out of your OEM headgasket. In fact thats really the only way to get a thinner headgasket for the B18B (that I know of). When you use cams with more duration, you bleed off more compression since the intake valve is left slightly open during the compression stroke. Because of this it is a really good idea to up the compression to compensate for it. (This is referred to as dynamic compression).
Of course you don't have too, and its not dangerous not to or anything, its just a good idea for performance
The valve cover was just two coats of high temp engine paint as a primer, and then three coats of GM gunmetal, and 3 coats of high temp clear.
How do I go about removing the middle layer?
How do I go about removing the middle layer?
There are little tabs holding the gasket together.
From what people tell me, they are so wimpy you can simply pull them apart with your fingers. I have never tried though, since I simply milled my head.
Once you remove all of them you can take out the middle layer. Put the dowl pins on the block itself, and stack the two remaining layers on top. (Make sure to take note which direction they were facing, and which direction "up" is on the gasket).
The gasket doesn't need to be connected by the tabs, so don't worry about reattaching it or anything.
From what people tell me, they are so wimpy you can simply pull them apart with your fingers. I have never tried though, since I simply milled my head.
Once you remove all of them you can take out the middle layer. Put the dowl pins on the block itself, and stack the two remaining layers on top. (Make sure to take note which direction they were facing, and which direction "up" is on the gasket).
The gasket doesn't need to be connected by the tabs, so don't worry about reattaching it or anything.
Yup, as long as you don't damage the head gasket peices you shouldn't have any problem.
If you want too, you could put a few light coats of spray on copper gasket, to make sure it seals real well.
If you want too, you could put a few light coats of spray on copper gasket, to make sure it seals real well.
Haha, nice wrench, just make sure its on when your trying to torque something, if it turns off it wont beep/vibrate when your torque and that can result in overtorque...ex. over torqueing rod bolts and ruining them. ive still got my trusty click type 
Nice build too!
-sander

Nice build too!
-sander
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup, as long as you don't damage the head gasket peices you shouldn't have any problem.
If you want too, you could put a few light coats of spray on copper gasket, to make sure it seals real well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah if you pull the 4 retaining rings with some pliers, take out the middle layers and it will seal fine, even with out copper spray. But you can use it if you feel the need. you can actually do the oppisite too if you wind up having too much static compression (as a result of poor piston choice) ..you can add layers (it reduces effiency big time but it works)
-sander
If you want too, you could put a few light coats of spray on copper gasket, to make sure it seals real well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah if you pull the 4 retaining rings with some pliers, take out the middle layers and it will seal fine, even with out copper spray. But you can use it if you feel the need. you can actually do the oppisite too if you wind up having too much static compression (as a result of poor piston choice) ..you can add layers (it reduces effiency big time but it works)

-sander
I run a very similar setup on my LS. It pulls hard from 5k to redline. I'm going to be upgrading to the 404's soon. Nobody makes a thinner HG for the B18B?
nice looking head! i like the valve cover color as well. and yes the Snap-On digital torque wrench is very nice to have. my friend uses it, and i hope to one day afford it.
thx, I am hoping to actually put it on my car soon but I dont have much time, any idea how long this should take? im guessing like a weekend.



