Anybody Get Their 15K Mile Service Done?
I just had mine done and they did a lot of inspecting. After looking over the receipt and checklist, it seems like all they did was:
a.) Lube Job (lubricate trunk hinges and latches, door hinges (upper & lower), door opening detents, fuel filter lid, engine hood hinge and latch, tailgate hinges and latch)
b.) Replace brake fluid.
c.) Add windshield washer fluid.
My clutch feels "tighter" though...it feels close to what it felt like when I first drove the car off the dealer lot. I didn't get an oil change or get the tires rotated because I do that myself. The whole thing cost me $55. Is it really worth it???
[Modified by CPR, 9:49 AM 11/13/2001]
a.) Lube Job (lubricate trunk hinges and latches, door hinges (upper & lower), door opening detents, fuel filter lid, engine hood hinge and latch, tailgate hinges and latch)
b.) Replace brake fluid.
c.) Add windshield washer fluid.
My clutch feels "tighter" though...it feels close to what it felt like when I first drove the car off the dealer lot. I didn't get an oil change or get the tires rotated because I do that myself. The whole thing cost me $55. Is it really worth it???
[Modified by CPR, 9:49 AM 11/13/2001]
$55?
Well, that's not too bad considering I've seen some go for $300 or so...
In the words of steve: "I'd never let those service monkeys touch my car!"
But you could do all that **** yourself and have a nice dinner and a couple tanks of gas for that price. They prolly also threw in a free detail with car wash and gave you some nice swirl marks too.
Sorry for my negative post, I'm not a morning person...
If you're happy, then that's what counts.
Well, that's not too bad considering I've seen some go for $300 or so...
In the words of steve: "I'd never let those service monkeys touch my car!"
But you could do all that **** yourself and have a nice dinner and a couple tanks of gas for that price. They prolly also threw in a free detail with car wash and gave you some nice swirl marks too.

Sorry for my negative post, I'm not a morning person...
If you're happy, then that's what counts.
Well, I'm happy about the clutch having that new tight feeling again. For some reason, that doesn't sound right.
Anyway, I thought they were going to do a valve adjustment.
My friend's cousin hooked me up on the pricing so maybe that's why it's so low. I wish I could do it myself because it seems like a lot of these things are just plain ol' inspecting, but I would have the slightest clue as what to look for if I inspect it myself. I'm planning to take car mechanic classes once I find the time because I'm a hardcore wanna be wrencher.
Anyway, I thought they were going to do a valve adjustment.
My friend's cousin hooked me up on the pricing so maybe that's why it's so low. I wish I could do it myself because it seems like a lot of these things are just plain ol' inspecting, but I would have the slightest clue as what to look for if I inspect it myself. I'm planning to take car mechanic classes once I find the time because I'm a hardcore wanna be wrencher.
they'll rip you on the price of a valve adjustment, spend the money on a helm manual and do it yourself, not hard.
value of doing it yourself = priceless
I was quoted over $300 for the 15k mile service, which included a valve adjustment. I drove to Charlotte instead, and spend my saved money on beer and food. Dealer has not touched my car in over a year.
Yeah, I'm always wary about bringing the my car to the dealership. I have this image that all they do is bring the car into the garage, look at their watch, and wait for 30 mins to roll by and then call me at the waiting room when enough time has passed to make me think that they really did do something. I think I'm going to bring it to a friend's shop next time so I can get better customized service.
[Modified by CPR, 11:15 AM 11/13/2001]
[Modified by CPR, 11:15 AM 11/13/2001]
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they'll rip you on the price of a valve adjustment, spend the money on a helm manual and do it yourself, not hard.
hum...isn't there also like a 3750 mile service too? or some bullsh!t like that...all I know is I have 4200miles on my car and I still didn't get my 1st oil change yet
i did mine 2 months ago.. they charged me around 260... the steering wheel feels lighter, cluctch feels new again, rotate tires..and whatever thing they do for 15k miles maintanence.. it's a lot of money,i think, but it's off my head at least. and it's important if you're thinking of selling your car sometime later...
I used to go to the dealer for all of the services. Then when I read what the 2yr service is all about, just basically inspection ! and for $400 !!!! So, now, I will only go to the dealer for oil change ($20). I will probably go to my tire place for the alignment and a friend for the timing. And buy my own lube gun, look in the helms and lube the car myself. As for the other benefits (tighter clutch, tigher hand brake, etc.) this is a simple turn of nut on a cable or whatever and should be shown in the Helms manual.
The 15k is usually only $55-$65. Acura recommends the valve adjustment at 100k. I know, I know the valves need to be done much earlier than 100k, more like 30k. Acura dealerships have to follow Acura's recommended service intervals in the service manuals.
The 15k is usually only $55-$65. Acura recommends the valve adjustment at 100k. I know, I know the valves need to be done much earlier than 100k, more like 30k. Acura dealerships have to follow Acura's recommended service intervals in the service manuals.
SO exactly what is the 15 K service? What about changing the fuel filter? Think its a little overkill to do a radiator, power steering, and transmission fluid change as well?
SO exactly what is the 15 K service? What about changing the fuel filter? Think its a little overkill to do a radiator, power steering, and transmission fluid change as well?
Enough of my valves were out of spec at 15k that i wouldn't want to have gone to 30k....401-2001's was similar, about 60 percent needed some tweaking, with a few too loose and one too tight. You don't need a tool of any sort, just a 10mm deep socket, a narrow (but not too small) flathead, and some valve tappet tools, the craftsman ones come in .001 increments from .005 to .030 in a set...perfect for B18C. Get a valve cover gasket from your dealer, some hondabond or other soft-gasket stuff for the corners, and you're set. Torque wrench is nice, but not necessairy...i've found it takes less time without a tool that theoretically allows you to turn the locknut while keeping the screw stationary...i take a measurement to find if it's loose or tight, undo the locknut, tighten it so gently that you're barely thinking about it, adjust the screw slightly, retorque the locknut, and check it. Repeat as necessairy....i got most of mine on the first try, 2 or so took a couple of trys.
SO exactly what is the 15 K service? What about changing the fuel filter? Think its a little overkill to do a radiator, power steering, and transmission fluid change as well?
That's what I'm wondering now since I just got it. From the checklist that my dealer uses, it seems like it's a lot of inspecting and not a whole lot of doing. On my receipt, I got charged $11 for a 203 MI3 Deposit Control. WTF is that??? Is that the brake fluid?
That's what I'm wondering now since I just got it. From the checklist that my dealer uses, it seems like it's a lot of inspecting and not a whole lot of doing. On my receipt, I got charged $11 for a 203 MI3 Deposit Control. WTF is that??? Is that the brake fluid?
Enough of my valves were out of spec at 15k that i wouldn't want to have gone to 30k....401-2001's was similar, about 60 percent needed some tweaking, with a few too loose and one too tight. You don't need a tool of any sort, just a 10mm deep socket, a narrow (but not too small) flathead, and some valve tappet tools, the craftsman ones come in .001 increments from .005 to .030 in a set...perfect for B18C. Get a valve cover gasket from your dealer, some hondabond or other soft-gasket stuff for the corners, and you're set. Torque wrench is nice, but not necessairy...i've found it takes less time without a tool that theoretically allows you to turn the locknut while keeping the screw stationary...i take a measurement to find if it's loose or tight, undo the locknut, tighten it so gently that you're barely thinking about it, adjust the screw slightly, retorque the locknut, and check it. Repeat as necessairy....i got most of mine on the first try, 2 or so took a couple of trys.
i'll post this pic again...the weirdo looking screwdriver with nut holder....(that didn't sound too good)
Be done soon if you want pics to go with the walkthrough at Bseries.net
[Modified by BudMan, 2:32 PM 11/13/2001]
I just read the how-to on valve adjustments on the bseries.net site and here is the part that gets me wondering.
If there is too much or not enough drag, use the valve adjustment tool to
loosen the locknut, adjust the screw to either increase or decrease the
clearance, and retighten the locknut. Check the clearances of both adjusters
again. The amount of drag on the feeler should be consistent on all adjusters
you check.
What is too much or not enough drag? Can someone in the NoVA area show me how to do this, puhlease?!
If there is too much or not enough drag, use the valve adjustment tool to
loosen the locknut, adjust the screw to either increase or decrease the
clearance, and retighten the locknut. Check the clearances of both adjusters
again. The amount of drag on the feeler should be consistent on all adjusters
you check.
What is too much or not enough drag? Can someone in the NoVA area show me how to do this, puhlease?!




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