Big brake conversion problems...
basically i have put bigger discs and calipers all round on my UK VT..
the fronts are now 282mm with matching calipers, and the rears are 262mm with matching calipers...
the problem is that the rear pads are not making full contact with the discs, so there is a ring of rust round the discs
i bought everyting S/H, discs were very rusty to start with, but i knew that after a few miles tis would disapear. They were of a car which was a year old.. the fronts are fine
Could this be related to the MC, which has now not got enough power to push fluid to these bigger calipers, or is it something else
here is a pic of the car and brakes... enjoy!
the rust is on the inside of the disc btw


Thanks for looking
the fronts are now 282mm with matching calipers, and the rears are 262mm with matching calipers...
the problem is that the rear pads are not making full contact with the discs, so there is a ring of rust round the discs
i bought everyting S/H, discs were very rusty to start with, but i knew that after a few miles tis would disapear. They were of a car which was a year old.. the fronts are fine
Could this be related to the MC, which has now not got enough power to push fluid to these bigger calipers, or is it something else
here is a pic of the car and brakes... enjoy!
the rust is on the inside of the disc btw


Thanks for looking
The rear brakes don't do all that much to begin with. By increasing the size, you're usually decreasing the pressure, because the force from the brake booster remains the same.
In short...the rear isn't wearing out quickly enough to seat the pads on the rear rotors.
You can flatten the pads with course sanding pads. You could have the discs turned. That should fix the problem.
INcreased pedal travel makes sense too. You are moving around a substantial larger amount of fluid. Installing stainless lines gives a more solid overall feel, and should cure most of your problem as far as pedal travel.
In short...the rear isn't wearing out quickly enough to seat the pads on the rear rotors.
You can flatten the pads with course sanding pads. You could have the discs turned. That should fix the problem.
INcreased pedal travel makes sense too. You are moving around a substantial larger amount of fluid. Installing stainless lines gives a more solid overall feel, and should cure most of your problem as far as pedal travel.
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hmm good question. How is the mc mounted on crx or civic on jdm euro ones? is the bolt wholes like this / or this \ ???? i hope you understand what i mean. On a usdm engine bay the bolts are like this \ on master cylinder if your looking at engine bay from front of car. They are same way on an accord in usdm also. I'm pretty sure that is how it is on euro ones also. To figure out engine go into the accord forum and ask what engine is in a 1989 lxi accord.
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you need a itg master cylinder and it will solve the travel problem because it is bigger and willl move more fluid faster just try it trust me i did it on my rex and makes it alot shorter but also use stainless steal lines too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_EH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And what does S/H mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was wondering the same thing
i was wondering the same thing
Turn the rear brakes. Get a 90-93 Teg Booster with the proprtion valve this should solve your problem. Make sure the system is bled really good also.
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