I'm leaking oil between the head and block, on the front passanger side. I just got the motor built and installed it, havnt even put the wheels back on yet I think it might be the head bolts cause when I blew the motor (reason for rebuilding) I did not see anything wrong with the block, or head. I had the motor built by a machine shop, they had the block sleeved by Golden Eagle and Golden Eagle sent an OEM head gasket drilled out to fit (84mm).

So I have a couple questions,
Is an OEM head gasket drilled out to 84mm dependable?
I'm lazy , can I just change the head bolts and not the gasket?

 

Anyone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I think it might be the head bolts cause when I blew the motor (reason for rebuilding) I did not see anything wrong with the block, or head. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you saying you did not have the head checked by a machine shop for straitness or resurfaced? if not you should have that done if your pulling the head again.

I have heard of people re using the gasket but I would just get another one... once the head is torqued down on the gasket, it gets crushed to make the seal. it probably wont crush the same way if you try to do it again.

if your using the OEM gasket from GE then your all set... should be dependable.

 

I had the machine shop resurface the block and head. I had the whole nine yards done to the engine. (Block: sleeve, 84mm pistons, rods, water pump, oil pump, blue print and balanced; Head/intake mani.: port, 4 angle valve job) Looks real nice, I need to post the pictures. Cant afford gas now but at least it looks good in the car.
I think its just the head bolts. I'm going to try to retorque the head bolts, or replace them. Im not going to pull the head, too much work. Hopefully the gasket wont move.

 

Gasket upside down?
Head studs or stock bolts reused?

 

i have the exact same problem... 84mm gsr/ b16 head
i went through the whole cam removal and re-torqed my head studs, and they were all to spec... waste of time. i just said **** it and let it leak.
i hate cars.

if you find an answer, let me know.

 

The shop put the gasket on, I don't think they would of put it on upside down.

I don't to replace the head gasket, Im too broke. But I think the shop will cover it if they made the mistake.
Yeah Im reusing the head bolts, the shop will probably say its the head bolts.

If I replace the head bolts and do not move the head, I shouldn't have to replace the head gasket right?

 

I had the same thing happen to me a couple years back and the head gasket was not on backwards and the head bolts were torqued properly. I had a shop fix it and they put some kind of sealant around the problem area I think. Hondabond?? They wouldn't tell me what they did. Nice huh. Good luck finding the problem.

 

Sounds like the headgasket upsidedown from what I've seen, although that seems to leak a lot of oil. They could have made a mistake and put it on upsidedown, pull it off and check.

 

Also, what kind of headbolts did you use? Since you used bolts, I'm assuming the stock ones, not arp right? Again, I would pull the head, get a new gasket and some headstuds and make sure you put it on right side up with the correct torque specs, and tightening sequence.

 

its probably jsut the cam seal, when they leak it looks like its coming from the head, but its not.

Landon

 

agree, camseal or mayby the vtec solenoid.

 

ev eryone just post what they have read before


i have builded many engines...
something i haave learned is

when u mill the head and block u take some of the surface...
if u use the stock dowel pins without making sure they are shorter to compensate for what u have taken out off the surfaces, u will not be able to torque the head back to the right specs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ev eryone just post what they have read before


i have builded many engines...
something i haave learned is

when u mill the head and block u take some of the surface...
if u use the stock dowel pins without making sure they are shorter to compensate for what u have taken out off the surfaces, u will not be able to torque the head back to the right specs</TD></TR></TABLE>

This makes the alot of sense. I know it is not the cam seal, cause I can clearly see it coming between the head and the block.

I figured if its the dowel pins then it most likely would be leaking on both sides, sure enough I was leaking coolant on the other under the exhaust cam gear.

Well that blows, I had plans tommarrow. And it's also suppose to rain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ev eryone just post what they have read before


i have builded many engines...
something i haave learned is

when u mill the head and block u take some of the surface...
if u use the stock dowel pins without making sure they are shorter to compensate for what u have taken out off the surfaces, u will not be able to torque the head back to the right specs</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i havent builded many engines but i can tell you that 90% of the time people think its coming from the head when its not. its rare for a motor to leak there.

Landon

 

Could it be coming from the distributor? I have that problem right now, and it looks like the head and block but you follow the trail of oil and it's higher.

Maybe that helps?

 

I called the shop and they said they are suppose to check for dowel pin clearance, so he asked the guy who built mine and he did not take off much, but he never actually said the guy told him he did check.
Also it's not the head bolts, I checked my reciept and they charged me for ARP head bolts.
I did not check to see if it was leaking under the distributor, but I have had trouble with oil getting in the distriburtor cap. I wish I had a camera, I can see it leaking under the vtec solenoid where the haed and block are connected. I can see a "bubble" every couple of seconds, like an air bubble, its kinda hard to explain but I pretty sure its coming from the head gasket.
Im still leaning towards the dowel pins, this is at least the second time the block has been resurfaced, and the head has been resurfaced once. And I know they did not shorten the dowel pins.

The shop wants be to tow it to them so they can look at it, but I have to work on my car at my mom's house (way out in the country). Towing it to the shop would probably cost more than fixing it myself. (if it's just the headgasket upside down, or dowel pins) The shop gave me an extra head gasket I need the car broke in and ready to drive by July 4. (going on a road trip) If I take it to them I probably wont get it back for a couple weeks. If I do it myself I should be done with it in one weekend.

How do I check if the dowel pins are too long? I'm guessing I would have to take the head gasket off and set the head on and use a feeler guage and see if there is a gap?

Thanks for all the suggestions and help everyone

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ev eryone just post what they have read before


i have builded many engines...
something i haave learned is

when u mill the head and block u take some of the surface...
if u use the stock dowel pins without making sure they are shorter to compensate for what u have taken out off the surfaces, u will not be able to torque the head back to the right specs</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, you make a perfect point. What about the oil control piece on the back of the block. I had my block decked and I took that piece out thinking that they will lose it but then when it comes time to assemble my block together. That piece sits a bit higher and I guess I have to shave it down so it can be flush with the block.

Oh sorry for off topic,

Back to your problem. You say that oil is getting into your dizzy? if this is the case then you sir have a bad dizzy bearing and need to replace it before it breaks down on ya.

If you can see bubbles from between the head and the block then you found your problem. I would be like you said the dowl pins. It does not hurt to shave it down a bit cause it's pretty long stock, damn now I'm wondering If I should do that on my block.




Modified by CRX T-Si at 2:02 PM 6/8/2004

 

Well this sucks, it finally stopped raining. I went outside cleaned the leak and restarted the car to see if it is leaking around the distributor (no leak), now it's leaking coolant, but its not bubbling. The coolant leak does look like it's running down from closer to the back of the block. I dont think its coming from the head gasket.

 

it maybe a seal on the water line that runs on the back of the block. but if there is oil and coolant than it is more likely head gasket. what kind of motor is it, sory if you already posted it i cont remember.

Landon

 

can coolant leak from the head gasket. Im not see anymore oil leaking, maybe after leting it warm up it sealed the oil leak. Now its a real slow coolant leak. Its coming from the same area as the oil but, the way it is leaking it looks like its running down from the back of the block. It's leaking on the passanger side of the block closer to the front. I'm pretty sure I know were the coolant is leaking from. When I got the motor back I had to put on the intake manifold, the coolant return housing (not sure the technical name), and a few other things. I had new gaskets/o-rings for all of it except the coolant return line. Looks like the dealership used some kind of gasket maker. It was white. Anybody know the name of it?

 

O and its a B16A2, in a 98 civic.

 

That is fucked up gasket maker on a Honda.....I would shoot that MF if someone did that to me.

Did you check your dizzy condition??? you said it was leaking oil inside.

Can you get your hands on the radiator leak test kit???

It looks like you will have to pull the head off man. Safe then sorry ya know

 

yeah he does suck, I went to the store to get some blue RTV silicon. When I got back it starts raining again.
The country sucks. Takes half an hour to go to the store, and there is more bugs crawling on my legs then there is hair on my legs

I might work on it some more tonight, I need a garage. When I loosen the bolts for the housing I could see the trail of coolant running to the head gasket and running along the head gasket. This should fix it.

 

yes coolant can leak from the headgasket.

Landon