check engine light ... Code 9 ?!??
Hey .. my car died few weeks ago .. and i replaced tons of **** and finally brought it to a mechanic ..he test my distrib.. and the new one i had jsut put in was bad. so i god another new one.. and it finally runs .. but with a check engine light.. and it runs like ****! .. it has no power , pedal to the floor, no response. And im going to put another distrib tomorrow and new rotor.. Does anyone have any ideas??.... the mechanic told me to bring it to a honda dealership.. and theyll charge me waay too much. Its a 90 si .
Code 9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position Sensor
It's the third sensor in the dist., and it detects the position of the No. 1 Cylinder, as the base for the Sequential Injection. It can also be located on the camshaft of DOHC engines.
CYP sensor is mounted on the exhaust cam on the ZC.
If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will heat the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism thus causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up to 170 degrees plus.
In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing by itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.
If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.
It's the third sensor in the dist., and it detects the position of the No. 1 Cylinder, as the base for the Sequential Injection. It can also be located on the camshaft of DOHC engines.
CYP sensor is mounted on the exhaust cam on the ZC.
If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will heat the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism thus causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up to 170 degrees plus.
In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing by itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.
If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.
90blackcrx you are a very knowledgable man.... I agree with him this just happened to me and the only way to fix this is to replace the distibuter... well not the only way but the easiest way!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghost_ryder35 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">90blackcrx you are a very knowledgable man.... I agree with him this just happened to me and the only way to fix this is to replace the distibuter... well not the only way but the easiest way!</TD></TR></TABLE>
depends
i have had a COde 9 since i went MPFI
have done alllllllllllllllllll kinda rewiring, troubleshooting and have never been able to get it away
the car runs perfect tho
i have tried diff dizzys, diff ecu's, rewired it 4 times, check the sensors and is still there
so i say **** it
dont u ave any more codes?
depends
i have had a COde 9 since i went MPFI
have done alllllllllllllllllll kinda rewiring, troubleshooting and have never been able to get it away
the car runs perfect tho
i have tried diff dizzys, diff ecu's, rewired it 4 times, check the sensors and is still there
so i say **** it
dont u ave any more codes?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghost_ryder35 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">90blackcrx you are a very knowledgable man.... I agree with him this just happened to me and the only way to fix this is to replace the distibuter... well not the only way but the easiest way!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
depends
i have had a COde 9 since i went MPFI
have done alllllllllllllllllll kinda rewiring, troubleshooting and have never been able to get it away
the car runs perfect tho
i have tried diff dizzys, diff ecu's, rewired it 4 times, check the sensors and is still there
so i say **** it
dont u ave any more codes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have tried everything and nothing seemed to work, it has to be the ecu.
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
depends
i have had a COde 9 since i went MPFI
have done alllllllllllllllllll kinda rewiring, troubleshooting and have never been able to get it away
the car runs perfect tho
i have tried diff dizzys, diff ecu's, rewired it 4 times, check the sensors and is still there
so i say **** it
dont u ave any more codes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have tried everything and nothing seemed to work, it has to be the ecu.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you have tried everything and nothing seemed to work, it has to be the ecu. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Right once again... Did you reset the ecu after you re wired it? Just a question because when i swapped my dizzy out the check light went off but the ecu still flashed so i removed teh hazard fuse in the engine bay fuse box and let it sit for a lil and now it works fine and does not flash any more or throw check lights so i am happy.... this could be the prob....
If you have tried everything and nothing seemed to work, it has to be the ecu. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Right once again... Did you reset the ecu after you re wired it? Just a question because when i swapped my dizzy out the check light went off but the ecu still flashed so i removed teh hazard fuse in the engine bay fuse box and let it sit for a lil and now it works fine and does not flash any more or throw check lights so i am happy.... this could be the prob....
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Kodyc
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