Here I'm from the Netherlands.
Dragracing is just in the last year getting more populair over here.
I LOVE it, but ofcourse I do not yet know a lot about how to go faster in my runs, due to lack of experience.

I drive a Honda Civic (EG6) with a B16A2 engine.
With my current mods and a civic with only the interieur in front, empty in the back, street tyres 195/50/15 Dunlops on 1.8 Bar (around 20 psi I believe) in front and 2.5 on the back.

Done on the engine:
4-2-1 Header
No catalyzer
2" piping all the way to the back complete excaust is from Supersprint
Open air intake, a WAI
MSD Ignition Cabels 8.5mm
Stock ECU
Stock Y21 Gearbox
Stock clutch

My runs were like:

1.
Reaction: 0.542
60ft: 2.449
1/8 ETA: 9.688 @ 120.60 km/h
1/4 ETA: 14.947 @ 150.63 km/h

2.
Reaction: 0.685
60ft: 2.422
1/8 ETA: 9.624 @ 121.01 km/h
1/4 ETA: 14.879 @ 148.76 km/h

3.
Reaction: 0.500
60ft: 2.454
1/8 ETA: 9.633 @ 121.21 km/h
1/4 ETA: 14.848 @ 153.52 km/h


This is one of my runs against a Stock Civic TypeR.

My question is, how do I change my car so I can get it into the low 14s...???

All the starts were on around 5.000 rpm and then with some wheelspin and revlimiter at work before shiftinf to second gear, shifting just before fuelcutoff around 8.100 rpm.

Next race I will be driving with Toyo Tampios Semi Slicks, so I hope that'll bring down my 60ft time's.

Thanks for sharing all of your knowlidge!!!!!

Greets from the Dutch Vintec


Modified by DutchVintec at 5:05 PM 6/7/2004


Modified by DutchVintec at 5:09 PM 6/7/2004


Modified by DutchVintec at 7:31 AM 6/10/2004

 

Well what i can suggest is a couple things..

#1 Narrow your 60ft times to a 2.0-2.1...that should get you in the mid 14's

#2 Add a lil more power to your car for example 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" exhaust system..Skunk2 Intake Manifold...etc etc

#3 Lose some weight on the car

Driving technics may play a big role it so just keep practicing!!!

 

Definitly get that 60ft down. I would try lowering your launch rpm 5k seems a bit high for street tires. On 555rs i usually launched around 4700rpm after second gear burnouts. What did that Civic Type R run?

 

everything the other people said and definately get your ECU chipped, having to shift at 8100 is horrible... you can take that motor to 9000 all day long with no problems...

 

but does that engine make power at 9000rpm?

I would suggest buying good tires, Hondata fuel management and tuning it.
Then go to a dynonometer and get a printout, then see where the engine stops making power (where the power curve between 7-9000rpm drops off. That is the optimal shifting point).

 

That Civic TypeR run was as follows:
Reaction: 0.675
60ft: 2.700
1/8 ETA: 10.235 @ 121.21 km/h
1/4 ETA: 15.460 @ 152.87 km/h

That guy was strugling with wheelspin all over the place.

Think my 60ft should be better with a new clutch (probably clutchmasters), new gearbox (not new but newer then my current one) , fuelpressure-regulator (about 30-33 psi....???) and Toyo Tampiro Semi Slick tyre. Then I'm thinking of running that tyre on 18 to 20 psi.
A chip is on order from Skunk2, VTEC start @ 4.800 rpm fuelcutoff @ 9.000 rpm.

Then this month should be over, so I will need to start thinking of the next step.
Problem is here in the Netherlands, you pay big time for all the tuningparts!!! So I need some time to save the money.

Please keep coming with your advise!!!!
Thanks a lot.

Greets the Dutch Vintec


Modified by DutchVintec at 9:23 AM 6/8/2004

 

You're right, here we can flash the ECU, the program is made for the engine on every 500 rpm on a Dyno. But that is to expensive at this moment for me.

As fas as I know, the B16A2 is direct related to the B16B JDM TypeR engine from around 1998. So it should keep puting out power up to 9.000 rpm, as long as you keep on providing the correct air/fuel ratio and ignitiontiming. But I'm not 100% sure this is the case, I do believe so, we'll see when I have it!!!

Again, Thanks!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but does that engine make power at 9000rpm?

I would suggest buying good tires, Hondata fuel management and tuning it.
Then go to a dynonometer and get a printout, then see where the engine stops making power (where the power curve between 7-9000rpm drops off. That is the optimal shifting point).</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it does make power to 9000, well mine did and ive been on a dyno pleanty of times... i don't think you really need a hondata yet, a chipped ECU will be fine for now... i went 12's all motor with out hondata and i know people who have gone 11's with a chipped ECU

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchVintec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Then this month should be over, so I will need to start thinking of the next step.
Problem is here in the Netherlands, you pay big time for all the tuningparts!!! So I need some time to save the money.

Please keep coming with your advise!!!!
Thanks a lot.

Greets the Dutch Vintec</TD></TR></TABLE>


Let me know what you need...I can get you the parts and send it via USPS if they allow the sizing... I have done it b4 for guys in the UK and Austria

 

Well first I need to wait and see what'll happen with the new setup which will be done in the next 2 weeks.
- Skunk2 Chip VTEC from 4800 to rev.lim. 9000 rpm.
- Clutchmaster clutch
- New gearbox
- Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Toyo Tampios 195/45/15 on 18 / 20 psi.
- Bushings between my rearsprings (or blocks not sure how to call them)
- Catback excaust, 2 1/4" or 2 1/2", not sure yet, any advise for high end power??!!

Since I already run with a nearly empty car, I do not know how to lose anymore weight of the civic.......... It is my daily driven car, so I need some interieur.....

The I'm thinking of the next things to go into low 14s or maybe further into high 13s.
- Adjustable springs and shocks, height and hardness
- Mugen 4-1 Header, or maybe antoher make, as long as it is 4-1.
- Intake manifolt, either Skunk2, JG Edelbrock or any other suggestion
- Other cams, Skunk2 or ITR cams (B18C6)
- Valvetrain, other springs and retainers, not sure yet which ones I will need.
- Thinking of JE Pistons to go for CR 11.0:1 up to 12.0:1, must be pistons capable of running spray.
- Dyno run for ECU flashing
- Dry or Wet shot, think wet will be better choise for around 100 or 150 HP shot. (should bring me into low 13s at least I think)

Thanks again for the advise, need to get things better here in the Netherlands.


Modified by DutchVintec at 2:43 PM 6/8/2004


Modified by DutchVintec at 7:30 AM 6/10/2004

 

I can get you all that stuff...Let me know when your ready!!!

 

u know wut u should do send ur block to america get it resleeved 2.0 liter get 13.1 or 14.5 compression run jun 3 cams and drop ur 60 maybe get a traction bar plus slicks..

 

OK, great!!!
How do I get in contact with you then??
Since I'm still on the "trial user" level I can't yet send any PM's.
At this moment I'm looking for several things, maybe we can get in contact by email.
Mine is honda_vintec@hotmail.com.

I'll be picking up my new gearbox tomorrow, finally.

 

You can e-mail me directly at ichibanb18c@yahoo.com for any questions or inquires...

 

hi there guy's

me also a dutch streetracer and a good friend of dutchvintec

my lowest time is a 15 sec run with a eg6 with around 200bhp....... but we already no why i was that bad...

civic is into the garage with a broken engine

i'm now looking for a b18c1

werecan i introduce myself???

greetins michael

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Drag_Racer_DRU &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">edefinately get your ECU chipped, having to shift at 8100 is horrible... you can take that motor to 9000 all day long with no problems...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your a fool to say it's ok to take a B16 on stock valvetrain to 9000 all day long. Do not throw out false info like that to someone wanting to know what is best for his car. There is no way a stock B16 will support 9000 rpm trips SAFELY on a daily basis without the addition of springs and retainers at the very least.

 

zet een nos systeem
ik ben van aruba
of koop een paar semi slick
bfg drag radial

in aruba verkoop ik het system voor 1200 gulden en een paar banden bfg radial voor 800 gulden
laat me weten can ik je met klm naar nedeland sturen
mijn broer woont daar dus je kunt an hem het geld geven laat me weten what you wilt
ik heb heel veel onderdelen

 

stock cams wont make power over like 7800 dont waste your time reving to 9k

 

Well guys, this exactly what I'm trying to find out. But there is a difference between a stock B16A1 and a stock B16A2, most people here in holland go by the rule that especially a stock B16A2 should be able to safely rev to 9000 rpm. This is the max limit Honda Ltd has given, unofficially.
I know a few guys who run around 9000 rpm with both B16A1 and A2 and who are faster on the 1/4 mile then with stock ECU, usually about 0.4 sec faster average.

On the other hand, Timmay is right by saying that the powercurve will bent down after 7800 rpm with stock cams etc. But after shifting on a little higher revs the engine will pick up on higher revs after the shifting and have more power available.

So, my idea now is to first go and try a CAI and a fuel pressure regulator. Then just give it a few runs on the chipped ECU and stock ECU, and see what works best.

@Micheal (Bun) I think to be honust that 200 bhp is a little to much to say, even on the crankshaft I do not believe it will be that much, I would say it is closer to around 175/180 bhp on the crankshaft.

Mr Aruba, wij houden wel contact, wellicht dat we idd wat business kunnen doen.... In ieder geval alvast bedankt voor je aanbod!!!!

Everybody, thanks for all the info, we will start to make changes to my car in the coming weeks and all the suggestions are welcome. Bare in mind that my money is not yet allowing me to go and buy cams, valvetrains, etc, so I'll first go for the next basics which needs to be done.

Greets Dutch Vintec

 

remeber i still have that mugen replica airbox for you!

 

I know my friend, thanks for that.

But I've heard that a CAI is very usfull t bring 60ft down and it also gives more torque and high end power. If anyone has comments on that, please do, because I'm on the edge of buying one.

Thanx!!!!

 

Hey vintec, I have a cia for you. I dont need it anymore so you can take it for free. Good to see your on h-t also. And get beter traction. those tires are good tires, if you get some good suspetion with it. I drove a 2.2 with them but i had the
185-50-14 one's and a itr engine. So you sould have beter grip then i had.

 

Hey Jose that would be great, are you sure?!
I think Nico has got your number so I'll ask him for it and give you a call.
Thanks a million.
BTW how is your block doing? When will you have it back from the states?

I will be driving them probably in the size 195/45/15. On org. 15" honda weels.
And yes I need another suspension, not sure which one to go for yet.
But the coming race and Zandvoort, Drachten we probably will not make, I will also have those bushings between my rearsuspension, that should help a little for the 60ft also.


Modified by DutchVintec at 11:05 PM 6/10/2004

 

SLICKS.... drop those big clunker tires and get some traction that will help you the most with the 60 sec times. also prob the cheapest way to drop the 60 footer. you seem to have enough power you need traction.

 

hey jose... you now that the racing seson is over for me...

@vintec ive got his number too