motor= b18c1, 1.8L, 12.3:1CR

toda Bs? or Cs

would Cs be too big for that CR?
would Cs make more power then Bs with that CR?

TIA

edit... other mods: ports skunk2 IM, 68mm TB, hondata, rc440, DC ITR header, 2.5" header back. daily driver, gonna run on mixed 94oct

 

toda b's for sure
i think C's too big, kill compression

 

that depends. do you want to kick some a$$? (C) or do you want to idle fine when you come to a street light! (B)

 

dont care about idle or money(between Bs and Cs)...
just want a nice power band....
if Cs will cause u dip in my midrange, then thats not what i want...

researching, and it looks like Cs recommand 13.1+ CR...

so im leaning towards Bs til i hear more good things about Cs

 

C's is good you just need to degree the cams to avoid the dip

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quitripin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that depends. do you want to kick some a$$? (C) or do you want to idle fine when you come to a street light! (B) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think the B's and C's have the same primary lobes...

 

12.2 CR is minimum for spec C's..

12.8 CR is ideal.

I'd go with C's.

An old trick to gain a bit more compression, is to adv the intake cam.


B's and C's.... They both share the same promary lobes just a larger vtec lobe, so I don't think your midrange will be high affected by the bigger vtec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quitripin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that depends. do you want to kick some a$$? (C) or do you want to idle fine when you come to a street light! (B) </TD></TR></TABLE>

What does this mean? For the millionth time, B's and C's have the SAME primary lobes. The only difference is on the vtec cam. If you can make B's idle, you can make C's idle. Get the C's. *sigh*

 

Toda's suck, don't de em for cryin out loud. Go to importreview and you'll find SEVERAL dyno charts proving that Toda's arent that great. If you got that money, go Jun 3's, or for less do Skunk 2 stage 2's. Toda's build some good mid-range torque, but thats about all they do well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Toda's suck, don't de em for cryin out loud. Go to importreview and you'll find SEVERAL dyno charts proving that Toda's arent that great. If you got that money, go Jun 3's, or for less do Skunk 2 stage 2's. Toda's build some good mid-range torque, but thats about all they do well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ROTFLMFAO

Ok, mr. dyno bot... look at this chart.




<FONT SIZE="3">What do you have to say?</FONT>


Here is a 1.8L chart w/ C's for you, "a low hp" chart doesn't mean low #'s at the track.

 

the b's and c's are basically the same cam. c's just give you an extra 8-10whp on the top.(ask 'toda si' if he still has the comparison dyno tested on his car long ago) they cost about the same price, so why not just go for the tiny little extra lump if you're going to get the todas anyway?

todas don't suck. there are countless 190whp+ toda b/c graphs here posted by numerous members with minimal necessary mods(or at least there use to be) all the way upto 230, 240whp.

the 230whp graph you see above tho, 'the guy' swapped out his c's for the type 3's and put down 254/179.

 

I THINK THE C'S ARE THE WAY TO GO...YOUR COMPRESSION IS FINE FOR THE C SPEC'S