CEL: VTEC Malfunction Rear Bank
I need some help. After the tuning last week I am getting a CEL code, I can't remember the number but it is: VTEC Malfunction Rear Bank. I have no idea what is causing this problem. I've checked the oil level and it seemed fine.
Will changing the oil help the problem?
Could it be a loose VAFC wire?
Will having too large/small a difference between VTEC engage and VTEC disengage cause this? I've heard the spread should be 400 rpms.
Any pointers?
Will changing the oil help the problem?
Could it be a loose VAFC wire?
Will having too large/small a difference between VTEC engage and VTEC disengage cause this? I've heard the spread should be 400 rpms.
Any pointers?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC solenoid maybe? Does VTEC seem to be working ok?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It seems to engage fine when there is no CEL, but when the light comes on I go into limp mode and no VTEC.
It seems to engage fine when there is no CEL, but when the light comes on I go into limp mode and no VTEC.
It's the VTEC engagement points change it back to stock. I'm having this problem as well when i change my VTEC settings, it has something to do with the unmatch VTEC settings.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can also do Initialize settings to reset those main settings and it should be back to stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
But then I wil lose the AF settings....
But then I wil lose the AF settings....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris93Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Correct me if I'm wrong but I think your L-H and H-L settings have to be 400 rpm apart. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is what Mike told me - and it was at 200 apart - which may have been the problem. I hoping that fixes it.
That is what Mike told me - and it was at 200 apart - which may have been the problem. I hoping that fixes it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But then I wil lose the AF settings....</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't.
Plus I would always write them down because you never know who will mess with it by accident.
But then I wil lose the AF settings....</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't.
Plus I would always write them down because you never know who will mess with it by accident.
Well, setting engage/disengage 400 apart didn't solve the problem. The Honda trouble shooting says to drive in first gear over 6,000 for 3 seconds several times - if the light doesn't come on then the system is fine and there is an intermittent (sp?) problem and probably poor connections or loose wires at the VTEC pressure switch, the VTEC solenoid valve or the ECM.
The mechanic checked and tweaked all the connections around the solenoid and the pressure switch. The car seemed fine after that, but after a long drive and holding VTEC steady at about 5800 the light came back on.
This is getting frustrating - I have my first HPDE next weekend.
Is this a VAFC problem or do you think it is a VTEC system problem?
I may jsut take it to the dealership to solve, but they will not be able to fic it if it is a VAFC issue.
The mechanic checked and tweaked all the connections around the solenoid and the pressure switch. The car seemed fine after that, but after a long drive and holding VTEC steady at about 5800 the light came back on.
This is getting frustrating - I have my first HPDE next weekend.
Is this a VAFC problem or do you think it is a VTEC system problem?
I may jsut take it to the dealership to solve, but they will not be able to fic it if it is a VAFC issue.
I'd check all the connections between the VAFC2 and ECU harness. If Soldered make sure all the connections are solid. If They used Taps or Crimp terminals I'd undo one by one and solder them on.
I'd suggest taking the VTEC solenoid apart and making sure everything is functioning correctly. I had the annoying intermitten CEL's like you throwing my ITR in limp mode at teh most inoportune times. After reading a couple things here on the board, I was encouraged to take the VTEC Solenoid apart and make sure the button (called the spool valve) was not sticking. Sometimes small particles get in there and lodge it causing the CEL.
After I lubed up that button along with rotating it and really giving it a workout, I put it back together and ever since I haven't had a CEL (over 13K miles). Previously I was getting a CEL once every couple days.
I also cleaned all the connections with contact cleaner on a previous attempt, but it did nothing to stop the problem.
After I lubed up that button along with rotating it and really giving it a workout, I put it back together and ever since I haven't had a CEL (over 13K miles). Previously I was getting a CEL once every couple days.
I also cleaned all the connections with contact cleaner on a previous attempt, but it did nothing to stop the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike M »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd check all the connections between the VAFC2 and ECU harness. If Soldered make sure all the connections are solid. If They used Taps or Crimp terminals I'd undo one by one and solder them on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It look like the used some connectors rather than soldering them. I noticed that the following wires have been cut and not installed:
VTC cam signal (orange wire)
TDC signal (light blue wire)
VTM signal (blue wire)
Are these needed on our cars?
It look like the used some connectors rather than soldering them. I noticed that the following wires have been cut and not installed:
VTC cam signal (orange wire)
TDC signal (light blue wire)
VTM signal (blue wire)
Are these needed on our cars?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would suggest hooking up the VTM wire, its the wire that goes to the ecu side of the vtec pressure switch wire. w/o this wire hooked up, it will cause intermitent problems, with the MIL coming on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. I've set the VTEC crossover points back to factory - if that doesn't do it then I will get the VTM wire hooked up.
Thanks. I've set the VTEC crossover points back to factory - if that doesn't do it then I will get the VTM wire hooked up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
VTC cam signal (orange wire)
TDC signal (light blue wire)
VTM signal (blue wire)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know for sure the TDC signal is for I-VTEC
I would suggest calling apex, they were VERY helpfull when I had questions on wiring.
VTC cam signal (orange wire)
TDC signal (light blue wire)
VTM signal (blue wire)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know for sure the TDC signal is for I-VTEC
I would suggest calling apex, they were VERY helpfull when I had questions on wiring.
Well, I set the VTEC points back to factory using the **** setting in the VAFC. I went for a fairly aggressive drive for about 30 minutes and no CEL - I'm hoping that solved the problem but I won't be convinced until after several more good drives.
After several sessions of hard driving the CEL has not come back on - so not overwriting the factory ecu's VTEC crossover points solved the problem.
But why can I not change the VTEC points? That is the next questions....
But why can I not change the VTEC points? That is the next questions....



