I just won this auction yesterday:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting

this is additional info I got on the shocks from the owner:
Good morning opeth13,
I hope this answers your questions, if you need to know anything else feel free to email again any time. My husband says these were on a 99 Acura Integra, had 1&1/2 inch drop, H&R Springs on them, approximately 40,000 miles, nylon washers are still on them. I didn't know one was slow until I took the springs off. This one has small dent in upper cup but has been straighten. I took them in trade on a set of TEIN Coilovers. The car sat good and rode good before he changed them. I truly think they will be fine. I will add extra insurance at no cost, it's not expensive. Again email back with any questions you may think of. I think communication between ebayers is very important. I know how it is to purchase an item and the seller doesn't respond and just leaves you hanging, not knowing what is going on. Thanks again, ******
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Well, what do you guys think? 40k miles with H&R sports on a '99 integ? I got the whole thing for $270 shipped, which is within my budget. I'm going to be using these shocks with H&R race springs (I have them paired with Dropzone shocks as of now, good riddance ) Can I go a year on these? I want to put another 40K miles on them before I haev them revalved. The reason being, my car is purely a street car right now, a daily driver. In a year I am going to redo my suspension. Right now I have the H&R race springs, ST rear sway, no front sway, decent tires, 15x6 mesh's, skunk2 a-arms, a fairly aggressive alignment, and the DZ shocks. In a year from now, I want to have close to 600 lb rear springs, I'm going to leave the front rate the same, although I'm going to get GC coilovers or the like. I'm going to run a small front swaybar, and some more dedicated wheels and tires, because I'm going to start to participate in track events and whatnot, although the car will still remain a daily driver. So, should I be alright with these shocks for another year or so with my current setup?

 

Tell them that you want the top mounting hardware (nuts, washers, and steel sleeves) with them as your stock shock hardware will not cross over. Also, in the photo they have the front spring perches on upside down as the fronts hang down like a bell and the rears face up like a cup.

The primary key to their condition is that the adjusters must turn their full range which is approximately 1.75 or so turns. If the adjusters don't turn or go less then a full rotation and stop then they have been bottomed internally and have been destroyed requiring a $150ish each rebuild. If the adjusters turn properly and there is not sign of leakage and the mileage is true, they should probably last fine and give good service at a good price.

 

well, the person that Im communicating through emails is the sellers wife, and she doesn't seem to know much at all about the hardware thats for sale, although it seems she runs the computer and online end of things, as in she probably is the one that is computer savvy and put up the shocks for sale on ebay for her husband. At least it seems that way, and thats (hopefully ) why the perches are on upside down. I'm not going to ask them to test out the turning for me, I'll do it myself, and worse comes to worse the shocks will need a revalve, and in that case I'll just hold off installing them until I get the GC's.

As far as checking how much the **** turn, can I do this test while the shocks are off the car and the piston is fully unloaded? Thanks for the reply.

 

I bought used Konis that had Nuespeed Sports and about 50K miles or more. I still have them with GC's about 20K miles later.

If the rebound is slow it may not be a true indication of the shock condition (or so I was told).

 

ok, I just talked to the seller (the husband) over the phone. He works or owns a performance shop. He got the yellows as a trade for some coilovers they were selling. He said they rode good on the previous guys car, which was a 99 GSR. He said he "put" oil around one of the shock pistons to see if it would speed up the piston rebound (with the shocks off of the car), but he reassured me the shock wasn't leaking and HE put the oil there. He said the shocks come with all of the hardware seen in the next picture, (EXCEPT for the four items above the two black plastic things in the bottom right hand corner of the picture (the two red arrows on the right are pointing to them, and also the black plastic things themselves)

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/...d.jpg

I'm going to contact Koni for those parts. Ignore the other red arrows in the picture, it is not my picture, I found it on HT and sent it to the seller. Thoughts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by opeth13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He said he "put" oil around one of the shock pistons to see if it would speed up the piston rebound (with the shocks off of the car), but he reassured me the shock wasn't leaking and HE put the oil there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think this one, if you believe it, belongs in the "Dumbest mechanical things I've ever done" thread that is currently going on here.

The fact that the rod extends up slower than the others means nothing otehr then they might be adjusted different but has no real functional bearing on anything.

If the hardware is missing, new hardware kits can be had from Koni at $10 per pair of shocks.

The spring perch that is upside down on the front shocks is just sitting thre loose so it will take less than 5 seconds each to flip over, just be sure not to install them on the car upside down. You can check the function of the rebound damping adjuster when the shock is off the car by holding the rod in one hand and turning the adjuster tab with the Koni **** in the other.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The primary key to their condition is that the adjusters must turn their full range which is approximately 1.75 or so turns. If the adjusters don't turn or go less then a full rotation and stop then they have been bottomed internally and have been destroyed requiring a $150ish each rebuild. </TD></TR></TABLE>

good to know!

 

With sport springs I would think the standard valving will be fine. You won't *need* to get them revalved until you go to a spring rate somewhere higher than 500-600lbs linear. Of course, if they're busted, they need revalved regardless.

I got mine done when I went to 1000lb rear springs and let me tell you the difference was a revelation. Lee and the gang rock

 

oops, how do i delete this?


Modified by opeth13 at 1:53 AM 6/6/2004