What does your factory type-r ecu rev to?

 

8400 redline 8500 fuel cut

 

8400 redline, 8600 fuel cut

 

European models redlines at 8400 and fuel cuts at 8900 rpm.

Some JDM models (2000) cuts at 9100.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twin-cam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">European models redlines at 8400 and fuel cuts at 8900 rpm</TD></TR></TABLE>

same as AUSDM ITR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLMOTR_R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

same as AUSDM ITR</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think so - I'm pretty sure you'll find that even though the Tach shows something like 8900rpm at cutout, the actual engine RPM is only 8500. Some of the guys with Apexi controllers will attest...

 

mine stock ecu cuts off at like 9800 for some reason. i dont have a rev limiter for some reason and my car is stock.

 

I wonder how much of this info in this thread is valid and not just people talking out their asses.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danny98r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine stock ecu cuts off at like 9800 for some reason. i dont have a rev limiter for some reason and my car is stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure the car wasnt hooked up before when you bought it? and maybe the guy left his hondata in there or chipped ecu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danny98r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine stock ecu cuts off at like 9800 for some reason. i dont have a rev limiter for some reason and my car is stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those two sentences don't make any sense together. You have a rev limiter if your car cuts off. Not to mention that it's not a stock ECU if it allows revs that high.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danny98r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine stock ecu cuts off at like 9800 for some reason. i dont have a rev limiter for some reason and my car is stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't know what the hell you're talking about. Sorry to be so blunt.

That is the most convoluted, backwards, illogical two sentences seen on h-t in a long time.

 

All factory cuts from service manual:
redline 8500 / Fuel cut 8600
factory Tach can be off by 1000 RPM. (mine is off by 700)

 

If the stock tach was off 3% (I'm assuming its reading high, because that is normally what they do) - at 8500 REAL rpm that would show up as 8755rpm on the tach.

Same goes for the speedo, especially when you get up there in speed and the error becomes more obvious.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlapSmak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All factory cuts from service manual:
redline 8500 / Fuel cut 8600
factory Tach can be off by 1000 RPM. (mine is off by 700)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Info according to Honda, not Helms (which is also wrong on the GS-R fuel cut)
Redline: 8400
Fuel Cut: 8500

I agree on the tach though.

 

Chris: I'm not disagreeing, but 3% is low. My GS-R tach is off by more than 400RPM at 8000 and Nate's 97 ITR hits fuel cut at ~9200 indicated...

 

Just an example...

Mine is way off also. I show close to 9000 when the fuel cut kicks in, maybe a tad higher.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just an example...

Mine is way off also. I show close to 9000 when the fuel cut kicks in, maybe a tad higher.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here, my tach is off by 400 rpm as indicated and compared to the last time I dyno'ed.

 

I guess mine has to be off by 1,000 RPM because i take mine almost to 10,000 before i get a fuel cutoff. I can vouch for the other member being able to rev his out really high. But seems odd to me, that if mine is off by 1,000, then why is my vtec engaging right at the 5800 RPM mark? Shouldnt it be 4800 then?

Dunno, IMHO every car is different for what you can push out of it, yes they are the same car, but seems to me that if you take two cars down the same road and one seems to be quicker, its how it was made. My friends and i proved this with their cobras, that the one was just plain quicker, same year same mods, same car, doesnt make sense to me, but seems like this is popping up more and more, where people can push more out of their engines.

 

Not that it's good but my ITR pulls all the way up to around 9400. All Stock.
Do you think my Tach could be that off? I know the ecu is stock. I'm such a itr virgin so any info would help.

Tristan
00-0503

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleeperR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Not that it's good but my ITR pulls all the way up to around 9400. All Stock.
Do you think my Tach could be that off? I know the ecu is stock. I'm such a itr virgin so any info would help.

Tristan
00-0503</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's just the tach being off.

itr_dc2: The tach isn't off xxxxrpm at ALL ranges, if it was, your idle would read 1800 which obviously would not be correct. Like the speedo both are far more accurate at the lower end of the gauge.

 

Sweet man, thanks for the info, that's kind of what i thought but wasn't 100% sure. So, guess i'll stick to shifting on my tach right around 9,000 RPM, since my fuel cut off it a little higher according to my tach.

Another topic though, when taking it out to redline, i sometimes grind 2nd gear, it doesn't grind completely, it's seems like the synchro's are having trouble meshing right, it catches fine, but i get the occasional grind noise for like .5 seconds when slamming it, or pushing the car hard.

What's the name of that stuff you are suppose to add? Synchro mesh and tranny fluid. And where to buy??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the name of that stuff you are suppose to add? Synchro mesh and tranny fluid. And where to buy??</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're not supposed to add anything. Change the fluid with Honda MTF, Redline MTF, Motul Gear 300, BG Synchromesh, etc...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet man, thanks for the info, that's kind of what i thought but wasn't 100% sure. So, guess i'll stick to shifting on my tach right around 9,000 RPM, since my fuel cut off it a little higher according to my tach.

Another topic though, when taking it out to redline, i sometimes grind 2nd gear, it doesn't grind completely, it's seems like the synchro's are having trouble meshing right, it catches fine, but i get the occasional grind noise for like .5 seconds when slamming it, or pushing the car hard.

What's the name of that stuff you are suppose to add? Synchro mesh and tranny fluid. And where to buy??</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can buy bg syncro shift and red line motor oil from here http://www.3sxperformance.com/fluids.asp

you use to be able to get it at honda..but i dont think honda carrys it anymore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you use to be able to get it at honda..but i dont think honda carrys it anymore</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some dealers have BG products, some dont, they're independent operations. I buy BG44K from the Honda dealer in Tysons Corner, although I really hate that place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But seems odd to me, that if mine is off by 1,000, then why is my vtec engaging right at the 5800 RPM mark? Shouldnt it be 4800 then?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

the tach is probably more accurate at lower RPM's than higher RPM's. just like the speedometer is likely to be more accurate at 25 mph than 120 mph. that's just my .02.