I keep seeing people building B20Vtecs, why not just sleeve a LS to 84MM? It would be definatly stronger. Is there a difference that I don't know about? Maybe its the price, But you can only go so far on a stock B20.

 

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

Because sleeving isn't cheap. Most people probably would rather throw in a B20 and not have to sleeve it. B20 blocks are like LS blocks....cheap. I could probably get one for like $100 if I tried.

That's my guess.

 

I see, that what I was thinking. But why build a stock B20/Vtec? I know that you can upgrade the rod bolts and shop peen the rods for more strength. But I think that just asking for trouble, hoping it will stay together. Thats mostly why LSVtecs and B20Vtecs have a bad reputation for braking. People want to rev it like a GSR or ITR, it may last awhile but sooner or later it going to brake if not properly built. Sleeving is not that expensive, maybe $500-$800 more when getting machine work done.

 

I have a 90 LS with a 94 LS motor. My buddy is doing a B20Vtec in his hatch, and I have been throwing around what I should do. Do I go LSVtec or do something else. Any suggestions??

 

I not saying that a Stock LS/vtec or a stock B20/Vtec is not the way to go. It is a cheap and easy engine to build. I personally plan on Sleeving my LS to 84mm, forged rods, pistons and professional balance job. I am going to PnP a GSR head that I have. I want to be able to drive the **** out of it. If you are on a budget a basic LS/Vtec or B20/Vtec will get you the most bang for your buck. You just need to conservitive with how you rev it. Moderation is key.

I started this post because I never see anyone sleeving there LS, they all want a B20. Go B20 man... I am Just wondering why people think a B20 is so amazing. A LS sleeved to 84MM is the same thing. Ok it a little different, when sleeved to 84MM you get everthing a B20 could give you and much much more. Like boosting, now its not a problem. I like this because I can't afford a turbo right now but when I can, all I have to do is install crank up the boost and see yaaaaa........ No more wondering how long is it going to last.

 

people think it cause it's the easiest way to go with a b20, you asked this earlier and someone responded already, the poeple who go b20 probably don't have the money to resleeve a ls so might as well go with the next best thing, a b20

i've seen plenty of b20/vtecs last as long time, my friend has had one for a couple of years now no problems running strong, and on stock sleeves

"knock on wood"

so if you want to resleeve a ls so bad then go for it by all means, to each his own

thats just my guess, both are good in my opinion so either or would be good depending on your money i guess

 

B20 (cheap 2L motor + crower 404 cams) = reliable and fast as ****.

 

whats the rod/stroke ratio of an ls compared to a b20?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20 (cheap 2L motor + crower 404 cams) = reliable and fast as ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes! + boost = faster than ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSTEG96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the rod/stroke ratio of an ls compared to a b20?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its the same...
they actually share an identical crank and set of rods.
A B20 block is really just a factory bored LS block... except that the B20 uses a strange "siamese sleeve" or one piece sleeve design.

Also, a B20 has a knock sensor.

I myself am doing a B20vtec turbo, for similar reasons... I knew someone with a B20, and it was easier to pick up the B20 than to bore and sleeve an LS...
-Mike

 

Sounds good everyone thanks.

 

the b20z has a knock sensor i dont think the b20b has one

 

I have a gs we bored to a b20 so the work is ridiculous, thank god I didn't do it