it doesnt get any easier than this way.

Get your manifold on with your injectors and clips with your resistor box mounted. Dont forget your 7 wire dizzy and female connector. Having all the female connectors for the sensors from a spare harness is nice too so you dont have 2 solder joints for lengthening a wire, you will have 1.

1. grab a sliced clip of another ecu and depin different color wires from it and lengthen them a few feet. Get a mix of the small and bigger ones.
2. Depin C1 and C2 on your ECU and put C1 into B10 and C2 into B12 (B10 and B12 should be empty, if they aren't, depin them)
3. Take 2 of the lengthened pins and connect 1 to C1 and the other to C2 and run them to the engine bay. C1 wire goes to blue/green on CPS and C2 goes to blue/yellow (on the dizzy)
4. Depin A3 and A7 and plug in your lengthened pins and run them to the engine bay, Connect A3 to #2 injector and A7 to #4.
5. Cut your existing injector wires and connect the yellow/black wires and run it to the power wire on the resistor box.
6. Yellow injector wire on stock harness goes to #1 injector, red goes to #3.
8. Run a wire from the other side of each injector to the output wires on the resistor box. Order doesn't matter - they are just low impedence voltage.
9. Switch the green and yellow wires on the TPS because the voltage reads backwards. If you are using another connector from mpfi, leave it.
10. Line up the colors on the dizzy wires to mix the 5 wires and the 2 from the ECU to make the 7 round connector.

pretty much everything else plugs right back in or connects with minor modification (vacuum lines, plugs, etc)



Modified by zcnos at 4:00 PM 6/15/2004

 

why is this easier?

 

all those damn instructions say to move wires, cut them, then extend them in the car and all that. you have a bunch of sliced and rigged wires all over.

and if you ever want to go back to dual point, you only have to plug the old wires back in. they wont be cut in half.

 

i used these instructions and it runs perfect.