i'm getting my head milled probably about .010 to .015 its just according how much it takes to get it level again(B18C1 head standard 3 layer head gasket on same block) I'll be running JDM P73 pistons standard bore, Comp cams stage 2 cams, dual springs and tit. retainers. I know when milling a head it retards timing and i need to advance to be on TDC. My question is would i be ok as far as clearances to keep the cam gears on TDC till i can get the motor broke in and get it professionally tuned and to also get the timing where its supposed to be or should i go head and advance the gears however many degrees i need to depending on how much i have to get milled off. Another question, is the answer for advancing 1 degree for every .012 or .015 milled

 

i just went through this same process. when u adjust ur valves do the valve adjustment with cam gears set at 0,0. i would say u will prolly b ok with just running cam gears at 0,0 but i would advance both cam gears to 1,1 to be on the safe side. for more safety u should clay the motor.
realistically it should take less than 10k to get the head level again. are u sure its even warped??

 

The machine shop took off .010 and yes its warped. The reason for the re-build is because I broke a Crower intake cam bending 2 valves also. So i had to replace the cams, the valves, and while i was doing that i put the JDM p73's in along w/ new rings, arp rod bolts and arp head bolts and studs. When i had the machine shop replace one of the valve guides that had broke when the cam broke and the valve hit, they had said they looked at the head to make sure it was level. well all they must have done was look at it w/ their eyes and not really checked it. Because after we got done w/ the rebuild using all new stuff and torquing EVERYTHING to spec we crunk the motor up and oil started pouring out of the head gasket right above were the thermostat housing is from the #4 cylinder and thats were the cam broke right on top of #4. so after cleaning up all that oil we took the head of again, first the head gasket was bent a little on that spot(top left corner of the gasket) and we measured with a level and a feeler gauge and we could tell the head was uneven(yes we're idiots , we should have measured before we put it on)Sorry this is long. So +1,+1 will now be my TDC? Unless i clay to find out for sure

 

Quote: lilredhatch
(yes we're idiots , we should have measured before we put it on)

The damn machine shop we took it to should have done their job. If everyone had to go back and double check the "professionals" work we would never get anything built............LOL!!

It Sucks what happened but we will make it!!!

I still wonder about the cam breaking!!!

If there is evidence of the valve hitting the piston twice on #4 cylinder and once on #1, what happened. Was it the cams fault or the miss matched KMS valve-train. I know you don't want to brag about miss matched valve-train, but damn we need answers or it may happen again.

Anyone?????????

 

the easiest way to make sure ur cams are in sinc with TDC on the motor is put a 8" 3/8ths extension down through the spark plug hole. when piston #1 comes to TDC the 3/8ths extension will b at its highest point. then move the cam gears to the desired mark by inserting "dowels" through the cam rails into the holes drilled into the camshaft.

 

My LS already has the holes but Vtec heads don't! Guess we can make them lilredhatch!!!
Ha Ha Ha......It want be the first time we have had to drill on the head!!!!!

 

VTEC heads do have holes in the cam rails for lining up the cams to TDC with the pistons.

 

That is a great trick I was never aware of. Are you sure it doesn't matter if the head is milled though?

 

it works for both milled heads and non. my new head is milled and thats how i did it. once again adjust valves at 0,0 on head, then to line everything up do what i said in the second to last post.