Swapping an engine is super easy after you have done it a few times. The only thing is...that pin is a BITCH. Is there some sort of cotter pin or bolt that anyone has found that works easier than banging that pin out of the shift linkage? It takes me longer to bang that pin out than it does to get the entire engine/trans out.

Also, while I am asking for advice on things that make engine swaps quicker, has anyone replaced their hoses with better ones maybe with quick release fittings or does everyone just accept that the oem hoses/connectors are as good as it gets?

 

Remove the shift rods from the shifter instead, just leave them attached to the trans.

 

USE THE BIATCH PIN OTHERWIse you shifter will feel like crap!!!
impact hammer it out as far as you can by then should be lose enough to hit with hammer and punch!!!


hoses....i just use aftermarket hose clamps....

to get hose off get big pliers and loosen it on the nipple of the engine.....will come right off!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the shift rods from the shifter instead, just leave them attached to the trans.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and that is the MOST RETARDED thing to ever do!!!!!!!!! you are just creating 100 times more work.....

 

8mm punch+ hammer is all you need to remove the "bitch pin"
It might look to big but that is the exact size punch you need to remove it

 

Sorry .RJ, but still looking for something a little more civilized than dragging the whole rod assembly out. However that would be quicker...thanks for the quick response!

 

DAMN, you guys are quick...5 or 6 answers before I can even respond to the first one. Chad, I knew I should have just IM'd you...but thanks everyone else. I had a feeling there was a reason Honda uses that pin. Any play and you're right, the shifter probably would feel like ****.

 

I've found that you can get more leverage for hammering by going in from the top. I use a piece of solid rod about 18" long that is the right diameter and hammer away. Doesn't take long, you don't have to worry about crap falling on your face, and it's relatively painless...

 

I use a really long rod, with an 8mm bolt welded on the end. Hamber the pin out from above! Quick and easy.

Although I *have* left the shift rod attached, that really only works well when taking the engine and tranny out from below...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the shift rods from the shifter instead, just leave them attached to the trans.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Pat - who has <U>never</U> gotten a bitch pin out before

 

I've never had problems getting that pin out with a pin punch and a 5lb sledge hammer 4-5 whacks and it's out.

 

yep, 1/4" roll punch and 5 pound hammer *whack* *whack* *ping*
just keep extra pins on hand, I usually lose them on the last blow when they go flying upwards heh

 

yea with the right punch it is really easy, searching for "bitch pin" in archived content brings up several results.

 

Another vote for the proper tool. 8mm (its actually 5/16", which is the same as 7.94mm) pin punch from Snap-On. I've been using one for about 12 years now, and have yet to come across a pin that would not come out. I use a 2lb sledge and a pair of Vice Grips to hold the punch, and it comes out every time. The punch has a little 1/2 ball on the end that helps prevent the punch walking around, and stops mushrooming of the end of the roll pin.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">USE THE BIATCH PIN OTHERWIse you shifter will feel like crap!!!
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After you get the bitch pin out, I always take a "death wheel" thin grinder and grind two slots on the end of the tube that slips over the tranny shifter stub perpendicular to the bitch pin holes. This allows me to use a 5/16ths or 3/8th (can't recall) bolt and a nyloc nut instead of the bitch pin when I reassemble it. The slots I ground let the ends crush slightly together from the tightening bolt and this keeps the shifter from feeling bad. I've been doing it for many many years with good success and every disassembly takes seconds from there on.

Also if the shifter arm U-joint is getting sloppy, that same grinder, some more bolts and nylocs and half an hour can let you rebuild the U-joint and remove the shifting slop. The nylocs let you set the tension.

 

If you haven't tried using an air hammer to get the bitch pin out, you don't know what you're missing. I've fought mine many times, and often ended up removing the entire linkage to get it done quicker. I finally broke down and bought a cheap air hammer at Harbor Freight for about $5.00. With the air hammer, you just place the tip and pull the trigger - takes all of about 2 seconds, and seems a lot easier on the tranny than smacking it with a sledge.

Air Hammer =


-Chris

 

Some times even the air hammer won't work if you get a bad one though. I tried punching, pressing on and off the car, drilling, air hammering, making tools, etc. on my old '85 Civic S to no avail. Changed the clutch with the whole shift linkage attached to the tranny. Sold it that way, it was the worst one I even ran into and the only one that I didn'tnotch and bolt.

 

OK, so far I think I need to invest in an air hammer, because it certainly does sound better for the tranny than wacking with a BFH.

CRX Lee, I think you are on to something, since a bolt definitely seems a lot more user friendly. I just don't quite understand what you are doing with it. I suppose a picture would be too much to ask for...but if you get bored, it would be very much appreciated!

Again, thanks everyone for your words of wisdom.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lyonel 13H4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CRX Lee, I think you are on to something, since a bolt definitely seems a lot more user friendly. I just don't quite understand what you are doing with it.
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Here is a pic, sorry for the poor quality but the digital point-and-shoot camera isn't great on small close-ups and I haven't figured out how to use the wife's digital hot rod Nikon yet.

This is from the racecar and shows the attaching bolt and slot modification but I have not yet rebuilt the whole U-joint as this one is still pretty tight. Rebuilding the U-joint involves grinding the ends off the vertical and horizontal axle pins in the U-joint and replacing them with bolts and nylocs. You reuse the existing bushings but grease them and use the nylocs add to a bit of crush and remove the slop. It works great and costs only the price of three nuts and bolts.

Normally I use a shorter bolt than this shown but this is all that was in the spares bin. The ground slots end up being horizontal on both sides so the bolt pinches the fitting on the shifter rod. I've done this for over 10 years and it works great and comes out in a snap. When I did this, I left off the shifter rod bellows boot becasue is disintigrated (no big deal) but have it on the street car with this same modification. The only note is that you do need to be sure to stretch the bellows boot up over the head of the bolt and nut otherwise it can get bunched up between the tranny and the bolt and make it hard to get 2nd, 4th and reverse gears. Hope it clears it up a bit.


Modified by CRX Lee at 3:36 AM 6/1/2004

 

CRX Lee, you rule! That is the best thing I have seen. It all makes perfect sense now. THANK YOU for the picture! I will be doing what you did before reassembly. It just makes a lot more sense than using the "bitch pin." I knew that a bolt had to be a better solution.

 

Nice mod CRX Lee!

Looks like you are slotting the shift rod approx. 3/4". Does that sound right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Looks like you are slotting the shift rod approx. 3/4". Does that sound right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd say that is about right but have honestly never measured any of the half dozen or so I have done. Just cut the grooves far enough back ao as to pass the bolt/bitch pin holes so you get them to move when the bolt is tightened. It doesn't have to move far though to hold.

 

I have substituted the pin with an 8mm shoulder bolt and a nylock nut. This works well with only a slight degredation in shifter feel. The shoulder section allows less slop than a regular, fully threaded 8 mm bolt.

 

Crs Lee's method is good. I use a small sledge hammer with a stumpy star shaped srewdriver, takes 15 secs... someone never succeded to take it out, i feel bad for you. Maybe my pin is "looser"

 

I think removing the spring pin(I won't call it a bitch pin) is WAY easier then using a nut and a bolt.

It has never taken me over 30 seconds to get one out. 8mm punch, a hammer, and a few solid wacks and it slides right out.