A D15 rebuild question
(Sorry about the long post) I have a 88 5spd CRX DX with the D15 and 167k miles. The car ecently failed emmisions for too high NOx. The car seemed to missfire in high rpm. When you rev in first to about 5k the tach would stick then it would jump to 6k. Also a buddy said when I shifted at this point it would blow out black smoke. I checked to see if I was getting fuel and thats was okay. Then I checked my spark. All the plugs were black except the Number 2 cylnder. That plug was coated in oil and the tip was black. Refering to chiltons and hayes I figured the piston rings were shot on the number 2 cylnder thus leaking oil into the cumbustion chamber at high rpm. Then that would cause it to miss and also not pass emmisions.
Ok now the question. I have about 500 bucks to spare at the time and was looking to replace the piston rings since the car is a daily driver. I have decent mechanical skills and have the books for information. My question is what exactly would I need to replace to get her back on the road. Like I figure I might as well replace all the rings. Also how would you clean the block while still in the car (since I don't have a cherry picker) and how would I go about cleaning the pistons and such?
The final thing I would like to say is that I want to do this because I want to learn more about engine building and want the exp. Also I do not want to swap at this time. Thanks for the help.
Ok now the question. I have about 500 bucks to spare at the time and was looking to replace the piston rings since the car is a daily driver. I have decent mechanical skills and have the books for information. My question is what exactly would I need to replace to get her back on the road. Like I figure I might as well replace all the rings. Also how would you clean the block while still in the car (since I don't have a cherry picker) and how would I go about cleaning the pistons and such?
The final thing I would like to say is that I want to do this because I want to learn more about engine building and want the exp. Also I do not want to swap at this time. Thanks for the help.
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From: hittin corners so hard you can taste my rims..
1st off.. hows your compression.. black smoke is buring oil. in most cases, and if your plugs are dark and oil saturated.. i would lean torwards the side of your valve guide seals leaking.
another note. valve guide seals are hard to replace to the "average joe" since you have to remove the valve assembly. do your self a favor.. let a machine/head shop do it for you. they'll hot tank your head, and make things much nicer.
you might want to try and post this in the tech forum.. they should be able to help you alittle more in this field. i think the CRX forum is geared more torwards modifications.
another note. valve guide seals are hard to replace to the "average joe" since you have to remove the valve assembly. do your self a favor.. let a machine/head shop do it for you. they'll hot tank your head, and make things much nicer.
you might want to try and post this in the tech forum.. they should be able to help you alittle more in this field. i think the CRX forum is geared more torwards modifications.
Hmmm, my GF's 91 DX is blowing A LOT of oil....figured it was the rings, but it "could" be the valve guide seals I guess as well.......hmmmmmm....
I need to do a compression and leak down test.
I need to do a compression and leak down test.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: hittin corners so hard you can taste my rims..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jays91DXhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to do a compression and leak down test.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats a awsome tool, and give you great information.
for one, compression.. it should not always be 300 PSI.. lol (exadurating) but even, example.. 140-135-135-140. they should be i think within 15 psi.. something to that effect.
also.. leakdown is great.. it tells you just how much is by passing , and where.. if you have a bad valve.. (notice i didn't say vavle guide seal) you should be able to hear it through the intake manifold.. and its its and exh. valve, you'll obviously hear it out the muffler. or.. if your still loosing air.. you can disconect your PCV valve, and see if you can hear air comming through that... thats bad.. that means its going past your piston rings, and thats not good.
now.. the reason why i said, "not the valve guide seals" is because, the valve guide seals don't hold pressure.. they only retain oil. the valve holds your compression. but.. if you have bad valve guide seals, the oil will drip down the valve, and introduce oil inot the combustion chamber. and sometimes will result in oil on your spark plugs.
thats a awsome tool, and give you great information.
for one, compression.. it should not always be 300 PSI.. lol (exadurating) but even, example.. 140-135-135-140. they should be i think within 15 psi.. something to that effect.
also.. leakdown is great.. it tells you just how much is by passing , and where.. if you have a bad valve.. (notice i didn't say vavle guide seal) you should be able to hear it through the intake manifold.. and its its and exh. valve, you'll obviously hear it out the muffler. or.. if your still loosing air.. you can disconect your PCV valve, and see if you can hear air comming through that... thats bad.. that means its going past your piston rings, and thats not good.
now.. the reason why i said, "not the valve guide seals" is because, the valve guide seals don't hold pressure.. they only retain oil. the valve holds your compression. but.. if you have bad valve guide seals, the oil will drip down the valve, and introduce oil inot the combustion chamber. and sometimes will result in oil on your spark plugs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CyniKal.Mindset »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">500bucks...buy a sohc zc and be on your way</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or a junkyard D15 for $150 - $250.00 and swap it yourself.
Or a junkyard D15 for $150 - $250.00 and swap it yourself.
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