Would having "traction bars" aid in road race and autox apps?
Just curious to those of you who have "traction bars" on their race and/or daily drivers, whats the word? If you are not familiar with them, heres a basic rundown. You have one large radius hollow beam that has brackets on each side- and then mounts to the existing toe hook bolts. The beam runs under the radiator and is typically straight. There are two other brackets on the main beam that support links that connect to the controll arms on either side. These beams "aurora-style" end-links are adjustable to set pre-load. I would think these bars would help stiffen the chassis, their designs are simple and can prove have great results in drag racing, but are they functional for road racing?
How does it handle in turns?
Improvment over not having them?
Enough clearance for autox in the turns?
What kind do you have and why?
Thanks everybody!


How does it handle in turns?
Improvment over not having them?
Enough clearance for autox in the turns?
What kind do you have and why?
Thanks everybody!


DAs have them stock, so we can use them => caster adjustment. I would imagine that the same benefits you see in drag racing are present to a lesser extent on a track. Disadvantages are weight and rules.
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this is a real good thread. keep it going. I was gonna post the same question earlier on today.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm wannabe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
From our experience, they dont help much for drag racing either.
If you are pulling/pushing on your suspension enough to change
caster, then you are asking for premature bushing failure. The stock
lower A-Arms were not meant to move in such a way. If you are getting
excessive movement out of your lower A arms, then you should change your
bushings to new ones or to spherical bearings.
Bottom line, unless you have a 4g civic/crx or 2g integra, you dont need raduis rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, plus it is a lot cheaper than paying $300+ for that traction bar.
From our experience, they dont help much for drag racing either.
If you are pulling/pushing on your suspension enough to change
caster, then you are asking for premature bushing failure. The stock
lower A-Arms were not meant to move in such a way. If you are getting
excessive movement out of your lower A arms, then you should change your
bushings to new ones or to spherical bearings.
Bottom line, unless you have a 4g civic/crx or 2g integra, you dont need raduis rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, plus it is a lot cheaper than paying $300+ for that traction bar.
I have an EG hatchback with nrg traction bars, I used them at homestead speedway (hooked on driving) it was my first hpde the instructor said his son races professionally and has a DA that I felt faster at the track than his son, I am also curious to know the answer to the question.

[img=http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/8646/dsc06184h.th.jpg]

[img=http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/8646/dsc06184h.th.jpg]
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just curious how much torque are you making? The suspension is going to flex much different if your putting down 200 lb/ft of torque compared to only 100 lb/ft. i'd say if you don't have wheel hop then its probably not going to make a difference.
i had lots of wheel hop (so much i broke an axle) before trac bars then i added them and a benen front bar and now have little wheel hop and only at the 1/8 mile track i dont think i ever had hop on the street any how im putting down about 140 tq and 217 whp, im not into drag racing though my build is set for road racing
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