wiring problem on a mpfi >>> dx to Si
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: Somewhere on the West coast, USA
wiring problem on a mpfi >>> dx to Si
alright my car keeps giving me a CPS check engine light
wiring is
c1 and c2 are wired up to the distro in the right spot
i moved b1 to b10
is that correct?
wiring is
c1 and c2 are wired up to the distro in the right spot
i moved b1 to b10
is that correct?
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,678
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Re: wiring problem on a mpfi >>> dx to Si (importboi22)
I dont know off hand which wires they go into, the spots (b1, b11, etc) but have you tried switching the c1 and c2 wires you added? Been over a month now since I did mine.
For the correct spots, Hcivic88 and Fourthgenhatch has good guides.
For the correct spots, Hcivic88 and Fourthgenhatch has good guides.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 528
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From: Knoxville, TN, USA
Re: wiring problem on a mpfi >>> dx to Si (importboi22)
-Pins B10 and B12 are empty meaning there are no wires going into them as a general rule, however some models have a wire at B12. If you have wires there depin them and pull them out.
-Depin C1 and C2 from their plug and plug C1 into B10s spot and C2 into B12s spot. By doing this you just saved yourself the need to solder any cut and solder at least 2 wires.
-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything (weird, but trust me on this one).
-Take the pin/wire from B2, depin it (this means pop it out of the plug). Now solder and heatshrink on a length of wire long enough to reach into the engine bay all the way to about 1ft after the fire wall. I say this because I like to add a plug right after the firewall later on so you can unplug your whole engine harness if you ever need to. You can do this in comfort outside of the car. Once you are done pin this wire into C1's now empty spot.
-Take the pin/wire from B11, depin it and solder and heatshrink a length of wire onto it just like you did for B2. Once you are done pin this into C2's now empty spot.
per http://fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html
used this last week, runs great.
-Depin C1 and C2 from their plug and plug C1 into B10s spot and C2 into B12s spot. By doing this you just saved yourself the need to solder any cut and solder at least 2 wires.
-Pins B2 and B11 have wires going into them but they are not used for anything (weird, but trust me on this one).
-Take the pin/wire from B2, depin it (this means pop it out of the plug). Now solder and heatshrink on a length of wire long enough to reach into the engine bay all the way to about 1ft after the fire wall. I say this because I like to add a plug right after the firewall later on so you can unplug your whole engine harness if you ever need to. You can do this in comfort outside of the car. Once you are done pin this wire into C1's now empty spot.
-Take the pin/wire from B11, depin it and solder and heatshrink a length of wire onto it just like you did for B2. Once you are done pin this into C2's now empty spot.
per http://fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html
used this last week, runs great.
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