New IMPORT TUNER magazine 159.7 WHP on a stock 98 GSR.
Has anyone seeen it? I think its a SSBP 98 GSR coupe. The stock motor put down close to 160WHP! That's prob equivalent to with a type R puts out in stock form. WOW!!!!! After basic i/h/e... the GSR was close to 170whp. What a monster! Anyone else seen it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtecfool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">factory freaks
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Word!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Word!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1998_4dr_gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone seeen it? I think its a SSBP 98 GSR coupe. The stock motor put down close to 160WHP! That's prob equivalent to with a type R puts out in stock form. WOW!!!!! After basic i/h/e... the GSR was close to 170whp. What a monster! Anyone else seen it?
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It could have been just freak condition or dyno, etc. Other dynos might not have read the same baseline.
What's important here is that he only gained ~10 whp after around $1000 in parts or maybe more.
Spend 2-3 times that on a turbo setup and you could gain 10 or even 20 times or more the amount of whp that they gained from i/h/e.
</TD></TR></TABLE>It could have been just freak condition or dyno, etc. Other dynos might not have read the same baseline.
What's important here is that he only gained ~10 whp after around $1000 in parts or maybe more.
Spend 2-3 times that on a turbo setup and you could gain 10 or even 20 times or more the amount of whp that they gained from i/h/e.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Spend 2-3 times that on a turbo setup and you could gain 10 or even 20 times or more the amount of whp that they gained from i/h/e.</TD></TR></TABLE>
except bolt ons isnt a major commitment like turbocharging is... if you look at engine performance in the future bolt ons seem to be the answer....
Spend 2-3 times that on a turbo setup and you could gain 10 or even 20 times or more the amount of whp that they gained from i/h/e.</TD></TR></TABLE>
except bolt ons isnt a major commitment like turbocharging is... if you look at engine performance in the future bolt ons seem to be the answer....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It could have been just freak condition or dyno, etc. Other dynos might not have read the same baseline.
What's important here is that he only gained ~10 whp after around $1000 in parts or maybe more.
Spend 2-3 times that on a turbo setup and you could gain 10 or even 20 times or more the amount of whp that they gained from i/h/e.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not to mentiont that the little import tunner "tuner section" (or whatever the hell they call it) is a huge waste of time. EVERY time they have it they're just putting yet another intake and exhaust on yet another car. They need to move on to something elses. How many god damn times can a person show dynos from intakes and exhausts and still expect people to learn anything
It could have been just freak condition or dyno, etc. Other dynos might not have read the same baseline.
What's important here is that he only gained ~10 whp after around $1000 in parts or maybe more.
Spend 2-3 times that on a turbo setup and you could gain 10 or even 20 times or more the amount of whp that they gained from i/h/e.</TD></TR></TABLE>not to mentiont that the little import tunner "tuner section" (or whatever the hell they call it) is a huge waste of time. EVERY time they have it they're just putting yet another intake and exhaust on yet another car. They need to move on to something elses. How many god damn times can a person show dynos from intakes and exhausts and still expect people to learn anything
That's nothing unusual with I/H/E on a GSR. Why do you think 95% of the people on this board do those mods first on their Hondas?
I only have AEM CAI and DC 4-2-1 header (and 8.9lb flywheel but not sure if that frees up a couple of whp), no exhaust, because the cops hand out tkts in my town at the slightest noise.
On a warm 87.5 deg. day, my GSR put down 157.3whp (up from 139.0 stock!). That's 18+whp with $460. 13% power increase and another 8.5ft-lbs of torque. I make more torque than an ITR and as much power, without paying the price for an ITR. The race shop owner said if it were 65-70 deg. it's would read ~160. He also said if I had an Apexi N1 or Thermal exhaust it would be reading at least 160 on that same hot day.
For all those FI guys that keep saying go with turbo, not everyone can do that nor everyone has the time & money to invest spending the next few years under the hood and building up the motor and fixing it when it breaks from all that power. Besides, some of us road race & autocross our cars and are only allowed certain mods in the class we 're in. If I went FI, I 'd be racing with all the supercharged lightweight M3s & Mcoupes (rich people - money is no issue) and FI hybrid Civics and would get killed. Doesn't make sense and it's not practical for many of us. I can see going that way if you drag race at the strips, but once you go FI, there's lots of money to be spent after that.. You reduce the life of the motor and its reliability by a lot. I see all the guys that come in the race shops with check engine lights, noises, bent piston rods, warped heads, etc. or they keep building up their motors to try higher PSI's next.. They always want more boost.
I only have AEM CAI and DC 4-2-1 header (and 8.9lb flywheel but not sure if that frees up a couple of whp), no exhaust, because the cops hand out tkts in my town at the slightest noise.
On a warm 87.5 deg. day, my GSR put down 157.3whp (up from 139.0 stock!). That's 18+whp with $460. 13% power increase and another 8.5ft-lbs of torque. I make more torque than an ITR and as much power, without paying the price for an ITR. The race shop owner said if it were 65-70 deg. it's would read ~160. He also said if I had an Apexi N1 or Thermal exhaust it would be reading at least 160 on that same hot day.
For all those FI guys that keep saying go with turbo, not everyone can do that nor everyone has the time & money to invest spending the next few years under the hood and building up the motor and fixing it when it breaks from all that power. Besides, some of us road race & autocross our cars and are only allowed certain mods in the class we 're in. If I went FI, I 'd be racing with all the supercharged lightweight M3s & Mcoupes (rich people - money is no issue) and FI hybrid Civics and would get killed. Doesn't make sense and it's not practical for many of us. I can see going that way if you drag race at the strips, but once you go FI, there's lots of money to be spent after that.. You reduce the life of the motor and its reliability by a lot. I see all the guys that come in the race shops with check engine lights, noises, bent piston rods, warped heads, etc. or they keep building up their motors to try higher PSI's next.. They always want more boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEConly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's nothing unusual with I/H/E on a GSR. Why do you think 95% of the people on this board do those mods first on their Hondas?
I only have AEM CAI and DC 4-2-1 header (and 8.9lb flywheel but not sure if that frees up a couple of whp), no exhaust, because the cops hand out tkts in my town at the slightest noise.
On a warm 87.5 deg. day, my GSR put down 157.3whp (up from 139.0 stock!). That's 18+whp with $460. 13% power increase and another 8.5ft-lbs of torque. I make more torque than an ITR and as much power, without paying the price for an ITR. The race shop owner said if it were 65-70 deg. it's would read ~160. He also said if I had an Apexi N1 or Thermal exhaust it would be reading at least 160 on that same hot day.
For all those FI guys that keep saying go with turbo, not everyone can do that nor everyone has the time & money to invest spending the next few years under the hood and building up the motor and fixing it when it breaks from all that power. Besides, some of us road race & autocross our cars and are only allowed certain mods in the class we 're in. If I went FI, I 'd be racing with all the supercharged lightweight M3s & Mcoupes (rich people - money is no issue) and FI hybrid Civics and would get killed. Doesn't make sense and it's not practical for many of us. I can see going that way if you drag race at the strips, but once you go FI, there's lots of money to be spent after that.. You reduce the life of the motor and its reliability by a lot. I see all the guys that come in the race shops with check engine lights, noises, bent piston rods, warped heads, etc. or they keep building up their motors to try higher PSI's next.. They always want more boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I only have AEM CAI and DC 4-2-1 header (and 8.9lb flywheel but not sure if that frees up a couple of whp), no exhaust, because the cops hand out tkts in my town at the slightest noise.
On a warm 87.5 deg. day, my GSR put down 157.3whp (up from 139.0 stock!). That's 18+whp with $460. 13% power increase and another 8.5ft-lbs of torque. I make more torque than an ITR and as much power, without paying the price for an ITR. The race shop owner said if it were 65-70 deg. it's would read ~160. He also said if I had an Apexi N1 or Thermal exhaust it would be reading at least 160 on that same hot day.
For all those FI guys that keep saying go with turbo, not everyone can do that nor everyone has the time & money to invest spending the next few years under the hood and building up the motor and fixing it when it breaks from all that power. Besides, some of us road race & autocross our cars and are only allowed certain mods in the class we 're in. If I went FI, I 'd be racing with all the supercharged lightweight M3s & Mcoupes (rich people - money is no issue) and FI hybrid Civics and would get killed. Doesn't make sense and it's not practical for many of us. I can see going that way if you drag race at the strips, but once you go FI, there's lots of money to be spent after that.. You reduce the life of the motor and its reliability by a lot. I see all the guys that come in the race shops with check engine lights, noises, bent piston rods, warped heads, etc. or they keep building up their motors to try higher PSI's next.. They always want more boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Doing the basic I/H/E will allow a person to see if they are into the modding hobby at all and allows them to find out of its worth it for them. If you dont know dick about cars, and go turbo, you will probably just be another one of those
my daddy gave me money for my car and turbo" kids.
I only had an intake, and choose to not do the I/H/E route because handling was more important to me and bought my Teins
my daddy gave me money for my car and turbo" kids.
I only had an intake, and choose to not do the I/H/E route because handling was more important to me and bought my Teins
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIK IN DA HED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it also depends on the conditions during the dyno run. weather... tempature... faulty dyno. haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
excatly, each run can vary a few HP's. But it could be a factory freak.
excatly, each run can vary a few HP's. But it could be a factory freak.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gsr4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bolt-ons are a waste of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your just saying this because you paid out your *** for your tubo setup which will render your motor useless 10x as fast as a n/a setup would.
your just saying this because you paid out your *** for your tubo setup which will render your motor useless 10x as fast as a n/a setup would.






