Stuck Caliper: Caused bad braking
After I installed my axxiss ultimates, about 2 months down the line, the rear drivers side pads were wearing very quickly. Last night they squeeled all the way home. I know for a fact it was the back, because when im driving, and I hear squealing, I lift the ebrake and the noise stops.
Anyway, I took of the axxiss ultimates in the back, The drivers side rear was horrible, worn down like crazy. The passenger side was in GREAT condition.
I went to put back my OEM pads (still had a decent amount left, since I did a complete brake change for better braking, not because I needed new brakes) I tirned the passenger side piston in just fine, lil resistance at first, but it still turned with no trouble. Now, the drivers side, **** that. I tried sooo hard, then I put some work gloves on, and turned more. It took 10 mins just to turn it about 15degrees. I finally got it in all the way I needed it, but it was very hard to turn.
My question is, would this cause the pads on that corner to wear down so much? If so, is the caliper rebuildable? I see autozone charges about $68 for rebuilt ones, but I dont know how good they are. My other option is to just take apart my stock ones, see whats wrong on the inside, maybe it just needs new lube in it. and if something is broken, I can just rebuild it my self, alot cheaper too. I rather rebuild it my self honestly, but has anyone actually done this? Has anyone had them stick before? What did you do?
I got pics of the pads to compare, ill post them up tomorrow. Thanks.
Anyway, I took of the axxiss ultimates in the back, The drivers side rear was horrible, worn down like crazy. The passenger side was in GREAT condition.
I went to put back my OEM pads (still had a decent amount left, since I did a complete brake change for better braking, not because I needed new brakes) I tirned the passenger side piston in just fine, lil resistance at first, but it still turned with no trouble. Now, the drivers side, **** that. I tried sooo hard, then I put some work gloves on, and turned more. It took 10 mins just to turn it about 15degrees. I finally got it in all the way I needed it, but it was very hard to turn.
My question is, would this cause the pads on that corner to wear down so much? If so, is the caliper rebuildable? I see autozone charges about $68 for rebuilt ones, but I dont know how good they are. My other option is to just take apart my stock ones, see whats wrong on the inside, maybe it just needs new lube in it. and if something is broken, I can just rebuild it my self, alot cheaper too. I rather rebuild it my self honestly, but has anyone actually done this? Has anyone had them stick before? What did you do?
I got pics of the pads to compare, ill post them up tomorrow. Thanks.
Sounds like it might be the handbrake mechanism inside the caliper. If you can find a rebuild kit, the Helm book has a nice writeup about it. You'll need a kinda funny pair of snap-ring pliers to get a snap ring way down in the cylinder.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like it might be the handbrake mechanism inside the caliper. If you can find a rebuild kit, the Helm book has a nice writeup about it. You'll need a kinda funny pair of snap-ring pliers to get a snap ring way down in the cylinder.
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Good to know about the snap ring pliers. I have a helms here, just havent looked it up yet. Where would I get a rebuild kit? I know I can order the parts individually if needed.
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Good to know about the snap ring pliers. I have a helms here, just havent looked it up yet. Where would I get a rebuild kit? I know I can order the parts individually if needed.
sounds like the little tab on the back of the new pads weren't lined up with the slot
causing the uneven wear
that one caliper was probably rubbing the whole time, overheated, and now its pretty much siezed
causing the uneven wear
that one caliper was probably rubbing the whole time, overheated, and now its pretty much siezed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like the little tab on the back of the new pads weren't lined up with the slot
causing the uneven wear
that one caliper was probably rubbing the whole time, overheated, and now its pretty much siezed</TD></TR></TABLE>
Negative, the pads were lined up. Im not one that will install **** quickly, i look over everything and even rechek torque specs when done. THey were lined up, the pads didnt wear unevenly, they wore out very fast, but they wore out evenly. I know they were lined up, because I shine a light in the caliper, and if you look closely on the side, you can actually see, after its install that it lined up correctly.
So installation error is out of the question.
Back to the rebuild idea, If i were to tear apart the caliper, I know i need special grease for it, what kind do I need?
causing the uneven wear
that one caliper was probably rubbing the whole time, overheated, and now its pretty much siezed</TD></TR></TABLE>
Negative, the pads were lined up. Im not one that will install **** quickly, i look over everything and even rechek torque specs when done. THey were lined up, the pads didnt wear unevenly, they wore out very fast, but they wore out evenly. I know they were lined up, because I shine a light in the caliper, and if you look closely on the side, you can actually see, after its install that it lined up correctly.
So installation error is out of the question.
Back to the rebuild idea, If i were to tear apart the caliper, I know i need special grease for it, what kind do I need?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragejed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where would I get a rebuild kit? I know I can order the parts individually if needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>Don't know, but if you can order all the rubber parts, including the seal around the shaft for the handbrake, that's about it.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't know, but if you can order all the rubber parts, including the seal around the shaft for the handbrake, that's about it.
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But what about the internals inside the piston like the screw shaft thingie. What if i take that apart and its all fuxored up, just check it all out, and replace what looks bad, correct? So no need to buy another one for like $45 then. Cause I rather try rebuilding it.
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But what about the internals inside the piston like the screw shaft thingie. What if i take that apart and its all fuxored up, just check it all out, and replace what looks bad, correct? So no need to buy another one for like $45 then. Cause I rather try rebuilding it.
Front rebuild kits only include the rubber seals, slider pins and piston boot. The kit is pretty expensive too. You can try to rebuild the rear caliper and if you get to the point that you can't continue just get that rebuilt one from Autozone and send back your disassembled one as your core. Shouldn't be an issue as long as all the parts are in there.
Just buy a re-built one.
I just did. Something like $99.00 with pads for an A/F one.
$130.00 without pads for a Honda caliper.
It's not worth the money and effort to rebuild it yourself.
Just my .02 cents.
I just did. Something like $99.00 with pads for an A/F one.
$130.00 without pads for a Honda caliper.
It's not worth the money and effort to rebuild it yourself.
Just my .02 cents.
Most of the time new slider pins aren't necessary.
Just get the seals and boots, clean everything up, grease it up and you're good to go.
Rebuild kits [front anyway] from Autozone are under $10 per side.
Just get the seals and boots, clean everything up, grease it up and you're good to go.
Rebuild kits [front anyway] from Autozone are under $10 per side.
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