Guys i'm going to start off with info on my project.I have a 91 crx si with a freshly rebuilt d16z6 bottom end with p29 pistons,10lb flywheel,etc.

Now i used my 91 si harness with plug changes at the engine harness to gray plugs so that i can use the obd1 distributor, all but 2 sets of wires match up,I have 2 white left over on OBDO and 1 white,1 yellow with a green stripe on the OBD1.which white on the OBDO get's the yellow with a green stripe? this is the big plug we are talking about,the little plug had 2 wires and the colors did match.

Now here's the catch i was told this:
if you look at ur stock wiring harness, there are 2 white wires. You have to look extremely closely to notice this but one of those white wires is bigger/fatter than the other. This fatter white wire goes to the yellow/green wire on the obd1 dizzy. The thinner white wire goes to the white wire on the obd1 dizzy.

This is exactly what i did but what happens is with the 2 white wires still connected the car starts and shuts off within seconds, if i disconnect the 2 wires the car starts and idle's fine,and i'm getting 4 fast blinks on the PG7 ecu i'm using which is OBDO i don't know if this matters. also my rev limit using this ecu is 4000rpm.

HELP

 

I dont think you can wire an obd1 dist to work w/ a obd0 ecu.

 

Car starts fine and idle's fine just overheats cause i haven't bled the cooling system. the dizzy would not cause the engine to overheat right?

 

anyone?

 

No, the distributor would not cause the engine to overheat. Why dont you bleed the cooling system since you know the cause of the overheating problem?

 

I did bleed the system but i can't tell if it's overheating cause my temp gauge ain't working, the needle broke when i installed dam indiglo's,anyways i was told not sure that 4 fast blinks on a pg7 is crank sensor, which takes us back to the distr. wires the 2 white wires.

 

PG7 is an OBD-0 ECU.
OBD1 dizzy has more teeth on the reluctor wheel for the CYP sensor.
You can't use the OBD-1 dizzy with an OBD-0 ECU. It's the wrong signal for the ECU and it's going to run like ***. The injectors will fire at the wrong time... probably making your engine run lean as can be and making everything nice and hot overheating.

EDIT: 92+ dizzys have 24 tooth reluctors and 88-91 use 16 tooth reluctors

 

can anyone confirm this? cause it starts fine and idle's fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PG7 is an OBD-0 ECU.
OBD1 dizzy has more teeth on the reluctor wheel for the CYP sensor.
You can't use the OBD-1 dizzy with an OBD-0 ECU. It's the wrong signal for the ECU and it's going to run like ***. The injectors will fire at the wrong time... probably making your engine run lean as can be and making everything nice and hot overheating.

EDIT: 92+ dizzys have 24 tooth reluctors and 88-91 use 16 tooth reluctors</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes ! I can confirm it. I've never actually done it, myself.
But from everything I have read on this board.
From Katman, VTECVillain, turbogixxer, etc. You CAN NOT run an an OBD1 dizzy with an OBD0 ecu. You will probably ruin either or both. They are set up to run on different pulse rates. OBD1 and OBD2 dizzys are interchangeable however, with wire swapping.
How do you know it's an OBD1 dizzy? Might be obd0, right?
HTH

 

Nah it's definatley obd1 , it's a Jdm zc distr. so i guess even though it starts fine and all i can't run it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoRiCuA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nah it's definatley obd1 , it's a Jdm zc distr. so i guess even though it starts fine and all i can't run it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I could be wrong but, aren't OBD1 ZC's really rare?
What color and shape are the connectors on the DIZZY side of the harness?
And how many wires in each?

 

JDM D16Z6 SI SIR VTEC DISTIRBUTOR
This is an auction for a Distributor from a JDM imported SOHC ZC VTEC motor. This distributor will work great to replace your broken or worn unit on your 92-95 civic d-series VTEC motor. This is a JDM unit so this has a hotter coil and a more responsive igniter. This is the gray plug distributor so it will work from 92-95 wiring.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...65727
the plugs are gray, 2 wires on the small plug and 7 on the big plug.

 

OBD1 dizzy.
Now you need an OBD1 ECU.
Did you do the rest of the conversion to OBD1 yet?

 

yes i have it all set up for obd1 using my obdo engine harness with mods at the dist. plugs and injector plugs and i also have the piggy back harness all i need is the ecu p28.

I was hoping i can use the pg7 ecu to break in the motor for the first 600 miles, but i guess that aint happening, or could it?

 

No you need a P28.
PM one or all these HT members or search their posts in the archived content search. VTECVillain, Katman, turbogixxer, Poison, blown90hatch, there are some others that know the OBD0 to OBD1 ***** really well, but I forgot their SN's
Or search-- OBD conversion.
I wish I knew more but I'm learnin everyday, just like you.
Good luck

 

thanks alot for your help

 

Bump for a Car almost done but still having this problem,

Guys i'm going to start off with info on my project.I have a 91 crx si with a freshly rebuilt d16z6 bottom end with p29 pistons,10lb flywheel,etc.
Now i used my 91 si harness with plug changes at the engine harness to gray plugs so that i can use the obd1 distributor, all but 2 sets of wires match up,I have 2 white left over on OBDO and 1 white,1 yellow with a green stripe on the OBD1.which white on the OBDO get's the yellow with a green stripe? this is the big plug we are talking about,the little plug had 2 wires and the colors did match.

Now here's the catch i was told this:
if you look at ur stock wiring harness, there are 2 white wires. You have to look extremely closely to notice this but one of those white wires is bigger/fatter than the other. This fatter white wire goes to the yellow/green wire on the obd1 dizzy. The thinner white wire goes to the white wire on the obd1 dizzy.

This is exactly what i did but what happens is with the 2 white wires still connected the car starts and shuts off within seconds, if i disconnect the 2 wires the car starts and idle's fine, but check engine light is on haven't read code yet cause i got pissed off the car was overheating so i shut it off and been pissed off since!! Happy father's day to me

 

did you get that obd1 ecu in there?

 

for future reference (dizzy's)

obd0 does not work with obd1
obd0 does not work with obd2
obd1 works with obd2
obd1 does not work with obd0
obd2 works with obd1
obd2 does not work with obd0

There is NO way to make anything else then the above combinations

-Eric