has anyone powder coated calipers
Not honda...but heres some pics...
http://www.trgperformance.com/...4.JPG
http://www.trgperformance.com/...2.JPG
http://www.trgperformance.com/...4.JPG
http://www.trgperformance.com/...2.JPG
autozone has them, turn in your stock calipers and get some new one in powdercoat...they only have red and yellow though.
red would be nice
red would be nice
I would think it would have to be done correctly, otherwise it would chip or somthing. But why would you do it? Bare steel with a little rust isn't pretty enough for you
Powder cat is not a good idea for calipers. Get them ceramic coated instead. Under heavy usage the heat built up in the calipers will melt the powder coat. Yes, that is experiance talking.
Powder coating isnt a good idea for autox cars and race cars no, but if applied right they'll take constant heat up to 300F. Why would you ceramic coat calipers? Ceramic coat is a thermal barrier and would keep all the heat in the caliper and probally boil your fluid. For a peformance car a thermal dispersant is your best choice, but if you're show/daily driver powder is fine.
I'm not going to argue for long with a guy who has "coating" in his nick, but wouldn't the ceramic coating help keep the heat from getting in there in the first place?
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To an extent it would, but eventually the constant heat would heat the part up and allow heat to transfer through other areas which would not be coated such as from your break pads through your pistons to the fluid etc. Steel/cast iron are great conductors of heat and take longer to absorb and disperse said heat when compared to aluminum. Once the pistons start transfering heat and stay at a constant temperture the rest of the caliper does the same and the temp slowly rises. The heat would be reatained and the thermal barrier would not let it escape once they are heated up causeing the boiling. In short, the calipers would eventually heat up, and not be able to cool down quick enough because of the thermal barrier retaining the heat. As an example, if you had a shed which was insulated and a small section cut ouf of the wall but had a heater pointing into the shed. Eventually the shed would heat up, and since its insualted not be able to cool down. Hope that makes some kind of sense......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRG-Coating »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To an extent it would, but eventually the constant heat would heat the part up and allow heat to transfer through other areas which would not be coated such as from your break pads through your pistons to the fluid etc. Steel/cast iron are great conductors of heat and take longer to absorb and disperse said heat when compared to aluminum. Once the pistons start transfering heat and stay at a constant temperture the rest of the caliper does the same and the temp slowly rises. The heat would be reatained and the thermal barrier would not let it escape once they are heated up causeing the boiling. In short, the calipers would eventually heat up, and not be able to cool down quick enough because of the thermal barrier retaining the heat. As an example, if you had a shed which was insulated and a small section cut ouf of the wall but had a heater pointing into the shed. Eventually the shed would heat up, and since its insualted not be able to cool down. Hope that makes some kind of sense......</TD></TR></TABLE>
good info
good info
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How's that foliatec caliper paint?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Junk.
There's no paint thats going to hold up with any sort of track use, even anodizing will fade over time.
Junk.
There's no paint thats going to hold up with any sort of track use, even anodizing will fade over time.
Prep is the key to the caliper paints. If you can afford it take them apart and buy all new seals and contact a local blasting company to media blast them with a medium grit angular grit. Just my 2 cents.
Unfortunately it seems rebuild kist for twin block Spoon calipers are either nonexistant or few and far between.
Looks like I'll just stick with the smurf blue, even though some type of brembo red would look nice behind CEW wheels.
Looks like I'll just stick with the smurf blue, even though some type of brembo red would look nice behind CEW wheels.
All you have to do, its use a wire brush to clean them, then I used a rust remover to clean up the crap. I then used a small power washer connected to my compressor to clean them. Sprayed a few costs of high temp flat black paint on mine, and put it all back together. actually, i did this while the caliper was still connected to the brake line
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRG-Coating »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To an extent it would, but eventually the constant heat would heat the part up and allow heat to transfer through other areas which would not be coated such as from your break pads through your pistons to the fluid etc. Steel/cast iron are great conductors of heat and take longer to absorb and disperse said heat when compared to aluminum. Once the pistons start transfering heat and stay at a constant temperture the rest of the caliper does the same and the temp slowly rises. The heat would be reatained and the thermal barrier would not let it escape once they are heated up causeing the boiling. In short, the calipers would eventually heat up, and not be able to cool down quick enough because of the thermal barrier retaining the heat. As an example, if you had a shed which was insulated and a small section cut ouf of the wall but had a heater pointing into the shed. Eventually the shed would heat up, and since its insualted not be able to cool down. Hope that makes some kind of sense......</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good show!
Good show!
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