ok i got a crx really cheap and built it for autocross. its a turbo ZC in it running 12psi on m24/TA34 turbo has been alot of fun but unreliable ZC transmissions (lost R & 5th) has really hacked me off many times, gonna get another trans to finish the season, but next season i'm thinking about changing it up

I want to do a b20 supercharged automatic, yes, i said automatic! b/c i wish to also bracket race the car btn autocross events, and stick is just hard to bracket, wondering on any thoughs? havn't done a b20 swap before so i assume its like bi6 swap aka b-series mount,wiring for ecu, ecu, but which axels to use?

 

My thoughts are this.

One, not meaning to be pessimistic but I bet you're probably going to be the only person to have ever done it, and personally I don't think you're going to pull it off.

Two, Built racing automatic transmissions have been done before, and yes they are great for bracket racing if they can handle the power the engines making. But they are expensive as hell, and I predict that being the hardest part of the set up, not the b20 or the s/c.

Three, the biggest issue of all... Automatics get their asses handed to them at Autocross. You can't keep the car in the high RPM all the time and that's key. Building an Automatic Drag car is one thing, but you're going to have a totally shitty set up for the twisties.

Why not just get a manual and have the best of both worlds.


And yes, b20 swaps are just like a b16 or b18 swap.

 

Check out b20vtec.com

On that site the moderator has broke several sleeves on his b20 blocks.
So my opinion is get the block sleeved or go with a b18

 

not to mention the wiring needed to get the auto trans to work.

 

not to mention the wiring needed to get the auto trans to work.

Good point IMO not worth it. If you want to autocross use a manual so you can shift yourself.

 

id go b18.

 

good points and noted, since the b20(i like the b20 b/c of stock 133lb of torque it can only go up from here) is like any other b swap then thats great easy stuff, S/C a car is just a Q of space & mounting no biggie, fuel management already got it done from the zc & easily transferable to any motor set up, prep for the b20 to handle high psi can be done w/o much hassel, but i don't think i can get the b20 s/c as fast as the zc turbo, as it will be heavier, but i hope i can over power that & hope to push 20psi on the b20

when it comes to the auto, i know how to make a controllable auto, as it locks out of gears & keep it from shifting so i can keep in the high rpms, and also a a trans brake so i can have awsome launches at the drag, and change gear ratios for best results, but its really a big Q how much abuse will the trans & TQ will take before it on me. and when it does i don't have a clue where to rebuild it as no one around here understand honda automatic performance. i only found one company who sells a higher stall TQ for honda

the real reason i guess i like the auto idea is when you look at the real (12 sec 1/4) camaros & TA (i use to drive a TA{12.4 best 1/4} and my friends laugh now that i drive import, but there slowly changing thee mind as i get closer) the ones that'll beat me over & over again(my ZC setup best is 12.90 on 1/4 pushing 16psi), they beat me b/c the car responds mostly the same b/c theres less chance on drivers error just put gas pedal down & go that and there faster, but there errors make you look better

 

but i hope i can over power that & hope to push 20psi on the b20

Which supercharger??

Jackson supercharger maxes out at 11-12psi

Vortec supercharger you better build the bottom end that should be about 400hp

 

isn't the auto trans too big? or am i thinking h22 auto?

 

I would keep it manual, and do a manual blown b20, that would be super dope.

 

its a v-2 vortech from my old car i have 5 pulleys for different psi & i do plan to build the bottom end no biggie

i'm starting to think of doing a b18c so i'll have oil squirters b/c i don't think either b20b or b20z have squirtes. & have it bored for larger diplacement,

 

go for something different and something you want to do and if you do a swap let me know how much you want you motor with everything on it

 

the point of using the b18 block was for the bore....tard

b20= skinny walls
bored b18= skinny walls

 

& if sleeved correctly w/ iron skinny will never be a problem....
DO it RIGHT or be laughed at for your mistakes

that and when looking at the big picture the b20 looks like it has way more potential b/c torque is real number that can be figured, while hp is just a formula. you can fake hp by just having more rpm

horsepower = rpm x torque / 5252
b18c1-128 lb/ft @ 6200 rpm CR-10:1
b20b- 133 lb/ft @ 4300 rpm CR-8.8:1

now if you can get the powerband on the b20b to be more linear instead of dropping off at 4.5k like it does. imagine the real power you would have all the way up to about 6.5k rpm. but now that i think of it understand more why you would want to do b20/vtech. & if it had the oil squirters to add to that i could see nothing but nice results

but i'm rambling now the point is to be able to bracket & autocross the car hince the s/c over the turbo (s/c is much more consistent, than a turbo; but turbo has a higher efficiency %) & the want for auto as it will shift the same.

 

You need more track & seat time. not an auto...