I'm having a problem w/ the idle, but it's intermittent. It ALWAYS happens when the car has been sitting overnight or at least a few hours. I start it and it idles at 2500 for a little bit. Then it jumps between 12-2500 until starts to warms up. Then it only tops up to like 2k RPM. Then 1500 RPM's. When it warms up, it idles at 1100.
Sometimes though it does it When I'm sitting at a light, but doesn't seem to rev nearly as high. It will idle at about 1500, at this point I can stick my foot under the pedal and pull up, which will bring it down to like 1100, then drops to like 850-900 and right back again. Over and over again.

Like I said though, it's intermittent. It will do it maybe 3 times on my way home out of 15 miles of rush hour traffic. The rest of the time it runs great.

Sorry for the novel.

 

Make sure your coolant is 100% full (air will really mess with the EACV), and make sure you have your idle set correctly. Start there.

 

check the throttle plate for blockage/something holding it open.

 

I just topped off the coolant on Sunday.
What should the idle be set at?
I've heard of people having problems keeping their idle set correctly, and using silicone to hold the setscrew on the TB. Would a loose idle adjustment screw cause these problems?

 

Another tip: Make sure your intake throttle plates (butterfly's) are clean and gunk free. Make sure your throttle cable/return is not bound and easily moving.

This is to be done in conjunction with the idle tip above. Use a good 3M intake cleaner spray so as not to foul any sensors.

 

if u are able to pull the pedal and RPM goes down, you might want to check your cable.
I had a buddy long time ago, his cable was busted, and got caught at 5k RPM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keebler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Use a good 3M intake cleaner spray so as not to foul any sensors.</TD></TR></TABLE>


you can get honda trottle plate and induction cleaner at the dealership
(THIS WORKS THE BEST!)
a lot of times it just gets gunked up and needs to be cleaned. it is better to take the throttle body off to clean it just pick up a gasket at the dealer too

 

Thanks guys. When I get off work, I'll go by the dealership and pick some up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shawn_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if u are able to pull the pedal and RPM goes down, you might want to check your cable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shouldn't the spring catch on the TB push the throttle cable back?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bishop4G &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just topped off the coolant on Sunday.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the problem is with there being air in the coolant system topping it off won't help the situation...the system needs to be "burped" in order to get all of the air out

 

What's the proper procedure for setting the idle on a stock B16a1?

 

adjust the idle screw on the throttle body...is it throwing any codes??

 

F***! F***! F***!
So I went and got some TB cleaner and a B-series TB gasket from the dealership by my house yesterday. The TB was pretty dirty when I took it off to clean it, but looked fine when I got done. The gasket was cooked so I just went ahead and scraped it all off and cleaned the IM face.
Then I ran into a problem. I've heard all B-series TB's are the same. Apparently, this doesn't apply to the 1st Gen. B16. The damn gasket doesn't line up. The vacuum lines didn't seal properly and there were a couple other gaps. So when I tried to start it, it just held my RPM's at 3K. Even w/ RTV it didn't work.

Anybody got a 1st Gen. B16 and experienced this problem, how can I fix it? Short of putting on a new TB.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SeanEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust the idle screw on the throttle body...is it throwing any codes??</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it's not throwing any codes, I wish it was that simple. The idle set screw is siliconed into place. It should be in the right position. When I get a working gasket it may be ok.

Hey SeanEF, how do you 'burp' the cooling system?

 

what gasket did u use?

 

One from a '94 DelSol. The A3.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bishop4G &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey SeanEF, how do you 'burp' the cooling system?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Start the car up without the rad cap on and filled with coolant..let the motor run until the coolant level drops (thermostat opens) the top it off, cap it and your good to go

 

So. I changed out the bad TB gasket('94 DelSol) yesterday to the correct one('93 GSR). I also 'burped' the cooling system. It was fine, just made sure. I also adjusted the idle a bit. I pulled cleaned the TB on Monday.

Adjusting the idle helped get rid of the slight surges when the car is warmed up and idling. EX: sitting at a traffice light. I don't know how permanent it is.

What's the proper idle speed on a B16a1?

Since I cleand the TB, when I start the car, it's idling at like 2800. As it warms up slightly, it starts bogging down to between 1500 and back to 2800. As it warms it tops out at less(2500) and less(2300) every time until it gets down to about 2K RPM's. Then it only jumps between 950-2000 RPM's. When the Temp. needle finally makes it to the little round part of the thermometer symbol, the car idles fine.

My throttle cable is still sticking(right around 1500-1800 RPM's), anybody got any fixes for this? I really don't feel like getting a new one yet. I can pull up from under the pedal and it comes down to around 1000-1100.

I need to get this surging under control, it's pissing me off.

Anybody else got an idea what might be going on w/ my car?

 

try unplugging the IACV when it starts to surge. (careful, the metal area's are gunna be HOT)

 

It's only happening until the car is warm. What will it accomplish? That will tell me if my IACV is bad or not?

If it is, what IAVC is compatible w/ a B16 SIR?

 

bump

 

bump!

If my IACV is bad, wouldn't it trip a code?

 

not always.

 

Can I get a diagram please? Preferably of the whole air system for a JDM B16.
Thanks.
crx_88_si, any idea what USDM I'd use as a replacement if the IACV is bad?

 

[QUOTE=Bishop4G]
My throttle cable is still sticking(right around 1500-1800 RPM's), anybody got any fixes for this? I really don't feel like getting a new one yet. I can pull up from under the pedal and it comes down to around 1000-1100. [QUOTE]

my car dose this as well (DOHC ZC IN A 91 CRX) i cant get it to stop sticking.
if i rev it it will go do some times
and if i pull on the pedal it stops

i cant get it to stop i have played with for the past week


Modified by crxzcracer at 7:27 PM 5/28/2004

 

[QUOTE=Bishop4G]Can I get a diagram please? Preferably of the whole air system for a JDM B16.
Any idea what USDM I'd use as a replacement if the IACV is bad?[/QUOTE


-----&gt;TTT&lt;-----

 

bump.

How can I tell if my IACV is bad on a JDM B16 SiR? What will unplugging it do if it's bad/good? I'm still getting the rough idle until the car is warm.

Anybody know what USDM IACV I'd use for a B16 SIR?

Thanks.