i've noticed a few ppl have went with the H23 VTEC but can the H23 bottom end handle the higher redline of VTEC i know the head takes most of the punishment from redlining but i don't wanna make the mistake and turn the H23 over to VTEC and then it no able to handle it for very long so if any one with the H23 VTEC can help me out on this one i'd appreciate it thanks


Modified by ludelover04 at 7:29 PM 5/24/2004


Modified by ludelover04 at 7:30 PM 5/24/2004

 

Vtec!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not VTECH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by musclefella &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">V-tec!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not VTECH</TD></TR></TABLE>


hehe yeah you had that one comming, i was just waiting, and din't want to be the one to flame.. but

did you read this WHOLE THREAD https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=510617

 

I rev my **** to 8000... If I spin a bearing I will let you know...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I rev my **** to 8000... If I spin a bearing I will let you know...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll be back in a few weeks....

 

yes...i just now noticed that i put VTECH my bad completly lol i haven't slept for awhile so that may explain some things vtec is what i meant sorryyyyy once again lol but yes i did read that whole forum and none of them have said anything about if they're able to handle it or not one of them said they changed the oil jets/"piston squiters" just a funny name but he said he only did that to keep it safe just in case but i'd rather not have to do that unless it definetly needs it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You'll be back in a few weeks....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha. I call dibs on the head when he parts the motor out.

j/k

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You'll be back in a few weeks....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe it.. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I believe it.. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you continue to rev that high then, it's pointless

 

Acutally it is not pointless... To some setups it is beneficial to rev that high and to some it is not... It would be impossible for you to know whether or not shifting that high is pointless for a setup or not without knowing the vtec engagement points and gearing ratios of my setup because when i upshift my needle is gonna land somewhere different on the tach then when you upshift... You do not know the powerband of my car nor have you ever driven it or looked at a dyno plot so I do not see how you can tell me where to shift at...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Acutally it is not pointless... To some setups it is beneficial to rev that high and to some it is not... It would be impossible for you to know whether or not shifting that high is pointless for a setup or not without knowing the vtec engagement points and gearing ratios of my setup because when i upshift my needle is gonna land somewhere different on the tach then when you upshift... You do not know the powerband of my car nor have you ever driven it or looked at a dyno plot so I do not see how you can tell me where to shift at...</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have to rev to 8000 to stay in vtec, then why don't you adjust
your vtec engagement point?
you have an h23 vtec correct? revving an h23 crankshaft to those
speeds is dumb, i don't care what your setup is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you have to rev to 8000 to stay in vtec, then why don't you adjust
your vtec engagement point?
you have an h23 vtec correct? revving an h23 crankshaft to those
speeds is dumb, i don't care what your setup is</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have to rev 8000 to stay in vtec at all, I don't even rev to 8000 very often I just said that I have and I can... If i could snap my fingers and lower my vtec engagement, trust me i would, but it is not that easy... Despite how dumb it is I just shift when the car feels like it is not making anymore power because I do not have a dyno graph to tell me for sure...I normally shift at 7600 and the car has been fine thus far...

 

fact: An H23 crank at an H22a redline will not last as long as an H22a crank with h22a redline. How long depends on how you drive it. But basically it's less reliable. That's about all you can say for sure, everything else is just guesses.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fact: An H23 crank at an H22a redline will not last as long as an H22a crank with h22a redline. How long depends on how you drive it. But basically it's less reliable. That's about all you can say for sure, everything else is just guesses.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I couldn't have said it better myself...

 

I believe it depends on the build. If you build it correctly, it will last a long time.

The biggest factor is how you drive it. If you beat on ANY motor, it will die fast.

But like Satan said, simple engine geometry will keep an H23 bottom end from lasting as long as an H22 bottom end, given everything else is held constant.

 

I dunno, I dont follow the saftey rules or guidelines like everybody else on these threads iI just go but personal experiance, its been 1 1/2 since I did 23vtec in my beater and ts get driven hard see over 8k daily, (it's a beater lol) over 17,000 since the head was installed stock block, stock j-spec head. Keep oil in it and go till it blows

 

Well from what i have seen from LS vtecs

GSRs have the same Rod:stroke Ratio our h22s , Im guessing that a h23 has prolly about the same as an LS.

So i dont think it would be to bad, LS bottom ends can handle it so why cant the h23? Its all in the tuning and making sure the bottom end is stout enough to handle it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeeBeeOne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well from what i have seen from LS vtecs

GSRs have the same Rod:stroke Ratio our h22s , Im guessing that a h23 has prolly about the same as an LS.

So i dont think it would be to bad, LS bottom ends can handle it so why cant the h23? Its all in the tuning and making sure the bottom end is stout enough to handle it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but an LS won't spin a bearing as easily as an h23.

 

See now i didnt know that How is this statement true?

 

Ok i have heavily looked into the option of the h23 vtec and what i have come up with is this.
The h23 block does not have the proper oil paths. They have to be drilled into block. The head has uses more oil with the vtec then the h23 head does so oil management has to be optiman and really flowing.
Also as someone has stated so far without a reason the crank on the h23 bottomend is not a good choice. i've head both ways that it is forged or not. But it comes down to this. Vtecs rev high thats basically where your vtec kicks in. H22 cranks come factory balanced and are forged i believe but i know they are factory balanced where as the h23 crank isn't. The h23 crank at higher rpms is out of balance and after repeated abuse will spin a bearning and cause hell. Basically if your going to do it then do it right. Replace the 2 h series crankshafts they are interchangeable and tap the oil paths for good oil flow. Those are crucial building the h23 vtec and getting any sort of life out of it at all.
Peace and good luck with the job

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RowensPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also as someone has stated so far without a reason the crank on the h23 bottomend is not a good choice. i've head both ways that it is forged or not. H22 cranks come factory balanced and are forged i believe but i know they are factory balanced where as the h23 crank isn't. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you serious LOL LOL no company will put unbalanced cranks in their cars. if you ever opened up an h23 bottom end and see the crank you'll see the drill marks for balancing.and only the JDM H23Vtec has a forged crank. all other H23's are cast....

satan---- Joel youre a post *****

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RowensPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok i have heavily looked into the option of the h23 vtec and what i have come up with is this.
The h23 block does not have the proper oil paths. They have to be drilled into block. The head has uses more oil with the vtec then the h23 head does so oil management has to be optiman and really flowing.
...and tap the oil paths for good oil flow. Those are crucial building the h23 vtec and getting any sort of life out of it at all.
Peace and good luck with the job
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow... The misinformation is ridiculous... The H23 Block does have "the proper oil paths" in the block just like the H22... You do not have to drill or tap anything for oil... In fact, the H22 Block is Identical to the H23 Block... Why would you post something as information if you don't know what your talking about?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wow... The misinformation is ridiculous... The H23 Block does have "the proper oil paths" in the block just like the H22... You do not have to drill or tap anything for oil... In fact, the H22 Block is Identical to the H23 Block... Why would you post something as information if you don't know what your talking about? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Very true. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah true. I have an h22 head if you guys need. Actually I have almost everything you need for the h23 vtec. And I didnt just pull mine apart. It should be running tomorrow!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeeBeeOne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well from what i have seen from LS vtecs

GSRs have the same Rod:stroke Ratio our h22s , Im guessing that a h23 has prolly about the same as an LS.

So i dont think it would be to bad, LS bottom ends can handle it so why cant the h23? Its all in the tuning and making sure the bottom end is stout enough to handle it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that is correct not sure though.