I just got myself a set of tein Ra's with have the 14k/10k springs. Would you guys recommend switching the springs so its 10k/14k? This is going into a k20eg. Let me know what you guys think...

 

ben,

if your car wsa bigger sure, a lot of the accord and prelude guys do this a-because they have a huigher curb weight, b- they have a longer wheel base.

it willmake for a very bouncy ride on the smaller hondas out there. if anything matchteh spring rates frt to rear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by au-gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ben,

if your car wsa bigger sure, a lot of the accord and prelude guys do this a-because they have a huigher curb weight, b- they have a longer wheel base.

it willmake for a very bouncy ride on the smaller hondas out there. if anything matchteh spring rates frt to rear</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pls Stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I dont really mind the bumpy ride. This car will be street driven however and will have a k20a2. Would it need the 10k/14k for it to rotate more? I've been reading alot about spring rates and this seem to be the trend, at least with everyone with ground controls.

 

Reversing should be fine. I have done the same on my Tein RS except the fronts were replaced with 12's so I have a F12 and R14. The car rotates much better but I may need to revalve the shocks as the rear seems a bit bumpy. It does not handle the small bumps too well and oscillates alot on them. Not sure if this is normal but when I had my HA's and they began to wear they oscillated alot like this but to a greater extent. I hope this helps.

AW

 

what do you mean when you say oscillating?? Will the rear shock be able to handle the 14k springs?

 

If you say whether or not the suspension is perfect, it is not. A properly matched shock and spring would not oscillate. As for real world use it is acceptable but not the optimum setup. I am not a pro in any sense, but I will be trying this setup on Friday at Mosport. It should be better than the HA's as they were gone...

AW

 

so do you beleive that the normal 14k/10k is a better setup then the 10k/14k?

im not a pro, but just trying ot get a good starting point from people thats been there and done that...

 

The stock shocks were matched at the factory to 14F and 10R. The fronts can handle the 10 but the backs don't seem to be able to handle the 14's. Of course I am comparing on my RS's that have more adjustment but I think the same would apply. If you are not very experienced I would leave it at 14-10 and get a bigger rear sway bar. I already had a bigger sway bar and only switched as I wanted to reduce the understeer.

AW

 

i might just go with no rear sway and 14k in the back. Can the shock be able to handle 14k realiabily(aka daily driver)?

 

Based on what I am experiencing, not unless you have them revalved.

 

anyone else with an oppinion?

 

for someone who posts a lot in this forum, you sure didn't have anything to contribute except bullshit.

sarcasm is not needed and your remarks aren't appreciated. either post something useful or sit down on that thumb of yours.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by au-gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for someone who posts a lot in this forum, you sure didn't have anything to contribute except bullshit.

sarcasm is not needed and your remarks aren't appreciated. either post something useful or sit down on that thumb of yours.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're the one not making any sense and not contributing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeNn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i might just go with no rear sway and 14k in the back. Can the shock be able to handle 14k realiabily(aka daily driver)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the street, I'd stick with the 14k front 10k rear, just get a larger rear sway bar. Swapping the springs for the street will be almost unbearably stiff and too loose for a street car. I run the RE's with the springs swapped 10k front and 14k rear and a 22mm rear bar. Although my car is only driven on the track, aka trailer queen. I personally don't think the rears feel very under dampend, but I run full stiff rear and full soft front. When I move up to 20k in the rear I'll put the 14k back in front and get the rears revalved.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by au-gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for someone who posts a lot in this forum, you sure didn't have anything to contribute except bullshit.

sarcasm is not needed and your remarks aren't appreciated. either post something useful or sit down on that thumb of yours.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah 19155 psots and i hAvent lerned a thing from .RJ he cntributes nothing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I personally don't think the rears feel very under dampend, but I run full stiff rear and full soft front. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point, I run the similar settings at the track. I have mine adjusted soft for the street. 6 compression and 2 rebound on the rear. 2 and 2 on the front. There is no way I could run full stiff on the street here in long island Still at the setting I am using and 12F 14R, the car is very streetable.

AW

 

okay, so I think I want to run the 10k/14k setup on my street/track car. How realiable will the shock be running 14k springs on a shock valved for 10k? Ill run close to full stiff on the rears...

 

Full stiff on the street in Toronto I tried half that last year and my back was in pain.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For the street, I'd stick with the 14k front 10k rear, just get a larger rear sway bar. Swapping the springs for the street will be almost unbearably stiff and too loose for a street car. I run the RE's with the springs swapped 10k front and 14k rear and a 22mm rear bar. Although my car is only driven on the track, aka trailer queen. I personally don't think the rears feel very under dampend, but I run full stiff rear and full soft front. When I move up to 20k in the rear I'll put the 14k back in front and get the rears revalved.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow 20k in back, thats some serious stiffness!! Wish me luck, I'll be running 14k front, 18k rear with 24-26mm rear bar and something scrony up front. And she will be driven on the street, once in a while

 

how so, i gave my opinion and i race auto x quite a bit, i set up cars all the time for auto x so i am prtty sure i understand the basics of setting up suspension for cars as i was a suspension tech for a major mountain biking team for 3 years.

i am not saying my opinion is the only way to go, but it makes sense. A softer spring up front witha harder spring in the rear to accomplish massive oversteer seems a lil counterprductive with all the other options you have available to tune a vehicle's suspension.

i personally have raced on spring rates of 350 front and 400 rear and was not too happy with the outcome. Switched them around and now the car handles much better compared to before. it doesn't bottom out on daily driving situations ie fast highway driving and rough roads.

if oversteer is your goal, then go with a larger rear swaybar, rear poly-urethane bushings and a heavy spring rate front and rear preferably matched. but once again this is only an opinon and each car will have to be tuned to the driver's liking.

so i don't understand how i am not making any sense as it seems like common sense to me

the reason bigger cars do run the softer spring rate up front vs the rear is the length of the wheelbase and the weight of the car. with those two factors you can understand why the bigger cars(accord, preludes, s2000) would set their cars up that way, its to get them to rotate more. On smaller cars with shorter wheelbases and less weight the only thing you will accomplish is a bouncy ride, that may or may not be able to be controlled by the damping settings on your shocks for everyday driving situations. once again just an opinion

 

suspensions are like girls.....

what works for me may not work for you.

Trial and error is the only way.

 

I would suggest trying the 14/10 first. play with the different dampening settings. If you do swap the springs i would recomend gettting all the shocks revalved. TEIN recomends that you get a revalve if you go 2kg. This is highly recomended to fully uttalize the suspension. If you have any questions give them a call or write them an e-mail.

 

leave the springs the way they are and run a ITR rear sway and no front sway

 

The Tein dampers and virtually all others dampers cannot handle a 40% change in spring rate without being re-valved. If you change from 14F/10R to 10F/14R, you need to get them re-valved by Tein. Front will be over-damped and rear will be under-damped. Just check the damper force vs velocity charts and you will see that the adjustment range is not big enough to handle the change you are proposing. Or just look at this table from Tein

http://www.tein.com/ti/h48.html


If you look at the max and min spring change rate for the RA dampers, front max is +4 and min is -2, while rear max is +2 and min is -2. So the rates you can run within the outside limits of the dampers is 18-12F/12-8R, but at the limits, you will not have any margin of adjustability. You can see that going to 10F/14R is all wrong according to Tein unless you have them re-valved. The dampers should be set such that the spring you are using and the damping force is in the middle of the range, and not at the edge or even outside the range. Most people know virtually nothing about dampers and how to match the dampers to the springs for a particular car. You are much better to take the manufacturer's opinion in this matter. Call Teinusa and they will give you a quote. Not cheap, as last time I checked, it was $160 each. By the way, you will find the rear end very lively with 783 lb/in springs, but it will rotate well on the track. Not too comfy for the street, but you can be your own judge.