yep, thats my plan for saturday morning, got some Autozone blanks $21.99each and carbon ceramic pads for $35.99. I got the tool to push the piston back to its housing also got a c-clamp just in case, got anti squeal grease, & brake cleaner. now questions.

1. whats the best way to remove the phillips screws that holds the rotors?
2. Should i return these pads and get the Hawk's from pepboys.
3. how many miles should i break-in the rotors/pads?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stockegsix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. whats the best way to remove the phillips screws that holds the rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Impact hammer, or if you want to chance the violent repercussions, just a sledge and a normal, though stocky, phillips head. Don't miss.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. Should i return these pads and get the Hawk's from pepboys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you meant "rotors" instead of pads, but either way, yes: run the blanks and use good pads and good brake fluid.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. how many miles should i break-in the rotors/pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bed them with four 20-0 stops, four 45-0 stops and a nice, slow 65-0 stop. Also, take a couple corners to get your suspension to flex and settle before doing any road racing or the like. Brakes aren't like clutches, so you should be good to go on a tiny break in.

 

i always drill the set screws out.

 

i used an impact screwdriver for 3 out of 4 corners. on the last one, the screws started to round off, so i drilled them out.