Forgive me if this is not the best how to.. But I did spent 20 minutes of my time to write it. Basically I wanted to give you an idea, what need to be modified in the bay for a keries swap. All kits require that modifacation. No matter what brand.


First you need a 92-95 EG Civic..

This is how a 92-95 EG HB looks like





Whether you have a B or D or H series engine, the procedure is the same... You have to remove the motor.

To do so you can follow the procedure in your helms manual, or use common sense or folow this list

1.Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then the positive terminal.

2.Fix the engine hood in a vertical position
DO NOT remove the engine hood.

3.Remove the radiator cap.

4.Raise the hoist to full height. Remove the front tires/wheels and engine splash shield.

5.Drain the engine coolant.
Loosen the drain plug in the radiator lower tank.

6.Drain the transmission oil/fluid.

7.Drain the engine oil.

8.Lower the hoist. Secure the hood as far open as possible.

9.Remove the strut brace (B16A3 engine only).

10.Remove the under-hood ABS fuse/relay box.

11.Remove the air intake duct, the resonator and the air cleaner assembly.

12.Relieve fuel pressure by slowly loosening the service bolt on the fuel filter about one turn.

13.Remove the fuel feed hose and evaporative emission (EVAP) control canister hose from the intake manifold.

14.Remove the throttle cable by loosening the locknut then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage.

15.Remove the engine wire harness connectors on the left side of the engine compartment.

16.Remove the fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.

17.Remove the engine wire harness connectors, terminal and clamps on the right side of the engine compartment.

18.Remove the battery cable/starter cable from the under-hood fuse/relay box and ABS power calbe from the battery terminal.

19.Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head.

20.Remove the power steering (P/S) belt and pump. (if equipped-ignore, rather remove the pump lines)

21.Remove the air conditioning (A/C) belt and compressor.(if equipped)
DO NOT remove the A/C hoses.

22.Remove the transmission ground cable and the automatic transmission (ATF) cooler hoses.

23.Remove the upper and lower rediator hoses and the heater hoses.

24.Raise the hoist to full height.

25.Remove the exhaust pipe and bracket.

26.Remove the A/T shift cable.(if equipped)

27.Remove the clutch slave cylinder and pipe hose assembly.
DO NOT remove the pipe/hose assembly

28.Remove the shift rod and extension rod.

29.Remove the damper fork.

30.Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joint with special tool.

31.Remove the driveshafts.

32.Lower the hoist.

33.Attach the chain hoist to the engine.

34.Remove the left and right front engine mount and brackets.

35.Remove the rear engine mounting bracket.

36.Remove the cruise control actuator.(if equipped)

37.remove the support nuts/bolt and mount bolt, then remove the driver's side engine mount.

38.Remove the transmission mount nuts. Loosen the mount bolt and pivot the transmission side mount out of the way.

39.Raise the chain hoist to remove all slack from the chain.

40.Check that the engine is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses, and electrical wiring.

41.Slowly raise the engine approximately 6 in. Checkonce again that all hoses and wires have been disconnected from the engine.

42.Raise the engine all the way and remove it from the car.

DONE

Now that the motor is removed, you will need to remove the tranny mount.

Use a plasma cutter to cut it or whatever else you think might do it.

See the tranny mount?



Bye bye, mount




Also that would be a good time to clean the engine bay.

Then place mounts on motor and position the engine in the bay.



For the rest of the procedure use common sense and it might end up looking like this





Note, that is a k24a in an EG using hasport mounts.

Here are the k20a and k24a oilpans



Most people will use the k20a2 oil pan on their k24a block.

H-T user Supafly's list of needed parts:
Parts needed other than the motor, tranny, ecu, harness
Mounts, axles, clutch line, fuel line, FPR, heater hoses, radiator hoses, new clutch w/resurfaced flywheel, lots of loom, wire ties, kpro, primary air fuel ratio sensor O2, shift cables, shift box, 3M black tape, wires to extend some wires for harness power wires etc., B series engine coolant temp sensor, pins for cluster, all fluids, vaccuum hoses, prototype racing intake, extra tube needed to be welded to intake, brake booster hose, thin fan, 6spd gear shift ****, load leveler for putting motor in, new exhaust, header, make sure all sensors are good, fuel rail STR, STR alternator pulley. radiator relcated to condenser position.


Here's a picture of the prototype hasport mounts




That;s it for my brainstorming

For more info on this, check out my website

 

nicely done
saved as a favorite.

 

any reason why you should not remove the hood?

favorites>add

 

sup man
nice write up
peace

 

nice job nikos

 

k20EG.....dang...its like WOW!
<----jealous bird

 

we now need a k20 how to for EK's

 

Great Job.

Funny thing is all that stuff thats needed is for the basic swap. So many possible things to add to that list.

 

why should we not remove thw hood?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22A EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why should we not remove thw hood?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, ok I think it is time to start using our common sense... Did I say we should not remove the hood?

 

nice... drooling on desk...

 

Bravo re. Nice write-up man! Good work. Definitely good to read up on when people want K-series info.

 

nice info

 

K20 write up

 

nice..... you have my

 

nice write-up nikos..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol, ok I think it is time to start using our common sense... Did I say we should not remove the hood? </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2.Fix the engine hood in a vertical position
DO NOT remove the engine hood.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

great write up, lots of useful info......and yeah actually you did say to NOT remove teh hood...hehehehe

 

some good as info.

when you replace the tranny mount, to you just weld it on to you engine bay?

 

Great writeup. Register at the mans site if you want a lot more K20 info.

 

sports compact car maganize made a write up Ek k20 swap in case anybody needs the indo.

 

ok so basically you told us how to remove an engine, and to cut the tranny mount.


o wait, the topic is called how to PREPARE for a k20a.....lmao


i wanna know how the new hasport passenger side mounts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Br1anPham &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some good as info.

when you replace the tranny mount, to you just weld it on to you engine bay?</TD></TR></TABLE>

na it goes into the tow hitch on the passanger side
peace

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by atermizi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sports compact car maganize made a write up Ek k20 swap in case anybody needs the indo.</TD></TR></TABLE> May i ask what issue?

 

july 2004 <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol, ok I think it is time to start using our common sense... Did I say we should not remove the hood? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i am confused? so why should we not remove the hood?

 

Still have shown absolutely NOTHING on shifter placement..... Ive seen 1 pic. That is Shaun (last name?) car which is posted all over this board. His shifter is 'hidden' under the stock center console which I have been told wouldnt work/fit.

Still an informative post though