For the second time now my clutch seemed screwed (first time this happened was last weekend). I have had my ACT XTSS clutch and prolite flywheel installed since 2/16 and they have 4554 miles on them. Last night I felt my clutch give a little and then started releasing at the very top. I was almost home so I just put the R in the garage. This morning it was still doing it. Half way to work it started acting normal again and engaging much earlier (like normal). I called ACT and they said that the most likely problem was either a leak or air somewhere in the hydaulic system for the clutch. They also stated that if there was something wrong with the clutch it would be consistantly bad, which its not. So im thinking of upgrading to a inline four stainless steel clutch line...an improvement over stock and might also fix my problem and its only $40. Anyone have a review for this product or any troubleshoot for whats going on with my clutch?

 

Bleed the system, then if problem persists...

http://www.enthusiastsauto.com

Buy an MC and Slave cylinder

 

master cyl. N/A

http://www.enthusiastsauto.com...nders

 

aren't the factory clutch lines already metal?

get your OEM parts here dude:
http://www.acuraautomotivepart...y.jsp

 

MC: 97.58
slave: 61.52
Total: 159.10

I would like to know if the factory lines are already metal

 

most of it is, but there is a short part that is rubber (look under your intake).

Have you bled the system?
Flush out the fluid and keep an eye on it...if it changes color then it's the seals going. (replace mc/sc).

The enthusiastauto.com place has Tokico OE parts...they were $75 total when I bought them there (groupbuy price?). The Honda parts are nice, but it's a wear item...

 

Well i bled the clutch last night and after doing that it felt like a brand new clutch But after some racing last night its feeling like it did (broken in). No more problems though The fluid is really dirty though, how should I go about draining then entire system? just fully unscrew the bleeder and then keep pumping the clutch?

 

40 is a rip, buy this one it is 29.
http://www.fastlineperformance.com/clutchline.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98cwitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i bled the clutch last night and after doing that it felt like a brand new clutch But after some racing last night its feeling like it did (broken in). No more problems though The fluid is really dirty though, how should I go about draining then entire system? just fully unscrew the bleeder and then keep pumping the clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a two person job unless you have a Speedbleeder. Also keep a close eye on the reservoir since it's so tiny. I would recommend flushing the whole system, but you might be on the way to a new MC/SC. I replaced mine at ~40k...it's a quick job. Ofcourse, I clutch a lot and am in traffic.

 

how much did the MC/SC run you?

 

Speedbleeder was $12 shipped, part # SB8125L

 

my friend has that clutch line and it makes a nice difference. just a "tighter" pedal feel, kinda like putting stainless brake hoses on your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my friend has that clutch line and it makes a nice difference. just a "tighter" pedal feel, kinda like putting stainless brake hoses on your car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet you'd notice the same difference if you put a new OEM line on

 

After market clutches with a heavier pp can cause the stock line to swell. I'm getting a braided line when I get a new clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I bet you'd notice the same difference if you put a new OEM line on </TD></TR></TABLE>

but OEM is more than the ss one. so if you're on a budget, why not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but OEM is more than the ss one. so if you're on a budget, why not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it... however there's alot of "I replaced this busted *** part with a better ss/poly/metal/delrin/etc part and it feels great!" out there.

I'm just curious as to what difference there would be if the OE part wasnt worn out to start with

 

so since i have a XTSS clutch i take it the SS line would be a good investment for the money...I looked at the line that from fastline and wasnt feeling it. I would like to have the full stainless, looks better IMHO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98cwitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did the MC/SC run you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't seem to be reading the posts above the posts I make.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm just curious as to what difference there would be if the OE part wasnt worn out to start with </TD></TR></TABLE>

under normal usage, i dont see where a big difference would be, but under heavy driving and continuous heavy use under pressure, the rubber lines would expand more than the stainless.. or so i would like to think. i dont have a test facility in my backyard yet, but it seems to make sense.