I think I might have to go this route since I have a gravel driveway and a hoist won't roll to well on loose rocks. Anyone ever do it like this? Was it a pain in the butt?

 

when ever i do a swap on a lift the motor comes out and goes in through the bottom, i did one swap in a gravel driveway, we just laid down a HUGE sheet of plywood and it was fine.

 

With a hoist on plywood? I tried to jack me car up on plywood and it cracked like a bitch. Wanna come down to Chesapeake and do it for me?

 

i read from some magazine that swapping a K series motor into a 7th gen chassiss does require the motor to go in from the bottom

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skeletor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With a hoist on plywood? I tried to jack me car up on plywood and it cracked like a bitch. Wanna come down to Chesapeake and do it for me?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what is it? car and motor? i normally charge around 500-800 for a swap, it would be easier if you brought it up here since i have a garage and all.

 

Just a b16 into a 94 civic. I was kinda joking. It would be nice for someone else to do it but I got no dough to pay anyone. I would like to do it myself or be of assistance to the person doing it. I'm trying to get experience but I'm deathly afraid somethings going to go wrong if I do it all by myself.

 

if you get the money let me know

 

How is the removal different from the bottom?

 

alot of people actually do it from the bottom even if they have a hoist.. esp if you are working alone it makes it alot easier.. if you try and use a hoist by yourself you risk the engine hitting the firewall or other spots of the car and scratch it up... esp on bays with a tight fit like nsx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drunknbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alot of people actually do it from the bottom even if they have a hoist.. esp if you are working alone it makes it alot easier.. if you try and use a hoist by yourself you risk the engine hitting the firewall or other spots of the car and scratch it up... esp on bays with a tight fit like nsx </TD></TR></TABLE>

Word the F up...

I don't know hardly anyone who actually uses a hoist to pull an engine... even in shops..

It's more of a pain and pointless IMO.

I recently yanked an M3 engine and from the bottom, it was CAKE... we have a hoist but using it would've been a bitch...

 

I'm going to do most of it by myself. My brother may help with some bolt turning though. I guess I just lower the car with no wheels onto the oil pan and undo the mounts? I'm not even sure can anyone tell me?

 

I found it way easier to change my tranny by pulling the whole motor out of the car from the top then doing it from the bottom.

 

this is what i do.. jack up the car and get the harness unplugged at the firewall.. all lines like fuel etc off the engine. take off the exhaust man or unbolt the exhaust from the cat back so just the manifold is on the car (i like to take the exhaust off tho gives more room)
then when all the ***** undone and all thats left are the mounts. you undo the rear mount and **** so the engine is kinda in the bay swinging by the side mounts.
then lower the car to the ground with the jacks under it with the wheels off.. and when the jacks are almost ready to bottom out stack something under the oilpan.. i use a phone book or 2. whatever is the right thickness..
then lower the rest of the way and the engine will actually be sitting on the phonebooks.

now take the bolts out of the remaining mounts and jack the car back up all the way..
now you can just slide the engine out the front under the radiator

 

ps.. you never remove the jacks.. you let the car sit on them.

 

You said jacks. Do you use two jacks? Are they placed on the sides at the jacking points?

 

well i actually lift from under the suspension i place the jacks under the rear mount on the lca.. seems like its more supportive ive seen honda jackpoints cave in numerous times.. yes i use 2, 3 ton jacks low profile .

 

Sounds like a plan. Now I just need to find another low profile jack just like mine. Thanks.

 

You can lower the car without no jack stands supporting it. It's easier to get the engine back up into possition. Just when you lower the car onto the ground without no wheels on or no jackstands just go slowllyyyyyyyyyyyyy (and double check if everything is clearing inside of the engine bay).

1. drain oil from the engine and the tranny, drain coolant and take off the coolant hoses
2. disconnect everything (harness, fuel lines, vacume lines, and so on)
3. put your car onto the jackstands, remove wheels, remove axle nuts, remove lower balljoint nut and take out the axles.
4. take off the exhaust header and downpipe, don't tounch the midpipe, disconect the shift linkage
5. disconnect rear L mount, and I take off my starter but it's not really needed)
6. place something to support the motor once you lower the car to take off the motor.
7. remove the jackstands and start lowering the car until the engine and tranny are supported on the ground.
8. remove all the mounts and lift up the car all the way up while watching for stuff clearing inside the engine bay.

install oposite of removal

 

there was a write up on how to do this a while ago.

personally i don't like doing it through the bottom. next time i'll just rent an engine hoist or something. i find it hard to balance the motor on the floor jack.

 

Everytime. It's alot easier to me. I don't like having to tilt the engine

 

if you do it my way there is no need to balance the motor on anything.. it sits on like 1 phonebook as itd sit on the ground.. perfectly steady. dont need jackstands either but you can use them if you feel safer.. i think it just slows you down since the whole process with jacking the car up is fairly quick

 

These are some old pix (about a year ago). That was my third swap and it went a lot easier from the bottom. Ive done it from the top and it is a bitch because you have to watcheverything and make sure it clears the firewall and what not. Plus i f-ed up my A/C line by pulling the motor out from the top.

Im actually doing another swap in my car right now. the car is sitting on jack stands right now

WHen pulling out the motor

1. drain all fluids (tranny, motor, radiator)
2. disconnect engine harness from shock towers
3. pull axles, disconnect header and shift linkage while u are down there
4. disconnect radiator hoses (remember heater hoses from the back)
5. unbolt a/c from bracket (if present)
6. unbolt rear, and front two engine torque mounts
7. loosen two upper mounts, JUST LOOSEN THEM
8. lower car and place something under the motor to roll it out when u unbolt the two upper mounts (i used my creppy crawler)
9 use two jack (the huge 3 ton jacks work great) to jack up car from sides and slide motor out

 

drunknbass, awesome idear, i was going to slide it from under was'nt to sure how to approach the issue. Thanks a lot bro, taking my y7 out in a couple hours

 

ok.. i know its not a EG, but this was my CRX back in the day.. and soo what if i cheated alittle.. lol

i was getting swaps down to a good 5-6 hours in and out.. running. once i got in the groove, it went by soo easy.









and bump for a clean *** B18C1.. look how clean my B16 is.. mad bling on the cam gears if you didn't notice..

*edit.. oh, and im still wondering, once you slide the engine under the car.. how are you going to lift it to bolt in your mounts? lower the car on it? you almost need the engine under a floor jack, or something?

 

I have taken out a few motors in my time and I never liked the bottom approach. I prefer to drop it from the top with a hoist. It is alot easier when you`re on the top looking down as opposed to the bottom looking up. That`s just me though.

The guy with the shop/lift/forklift has all the **** to do it the right way..If you`re going to go that route. Either way, you`ll get it right after you`ve spent some time with it..