Not where it mounts to the body, but where it mounts to the front UCA itself?

It's not listed in Helms as far as I can tell and it's driving me crazy. It can't be high as the joints need to rotate, but I don't want those bolts coming l00se either....

HELP!

 

Gutentite

 

That's the last resort I guess....some loctite blue?

 

tight and snug.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tight and snug. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hate cars.

I need a full time mechanic....

 

Maybe use the same torque spec as another bolt what what has similar duties, like that there upper jigger what controls the rear camber?

 

#4 for about 2 seconds on an impact.

 

FSM says 22lb-ft. also recommends you replace them each time you remove them as they are a self locking nut.

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also recommends you replace them each time you remove them as they are a self locking nut.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only do this if you can spin the bolt on by hand

Most of the bolt torques are 30-40 ft-lbs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not where it mounts to the body, but where it mounts to the front UCA itself?

It's not listed in Helms as far as I can tell and it's driving me crazy. It can't be high as the joints need to rotate, but I don't want those bolts coming l00se either....

HELP!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are not supposed to rotate, the rubber bushing is supposed to deflect to allow movement. That is why it is VERY important to have the arm/bushing lined up to proper ride height before you tighten the bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They are not supposed to rotate, the rubber bushing is supposed to deflect to allow movement. That is why it is VERY important to have the arm/bushing lined up to proper ride height before you tighten the bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The whole bushing is supposed to flex radially?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The whole bushing is supposed to flex radially?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, all factory suspension bushings work like that. OK, not all, but MOST of them, upper control arm bushings, lower control arm bushings, trailing arm bushing, toe control link bushings etc etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, all factory suspension bushings work like that. OK, not all, but MOST of them, upper control arm bushings, lower control arm bushings, trailing arm bushing, toe control link bushings etc etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So what is the torque?

 

If those are the bolts I'm thinking of, I had the same problem with finding the spec. Let me see if I can remember where I found it...

Hmm... Nope, can't find it anywhere. IIRC, I torqued them to either 40 or 47 lbft because that's what most of the other 12x1.25 bolts use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Agent Smith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If those are the bolts I'm thinking of, I had the same problem with finding the spec. Let me see if I can remember where I found it...

Hmm... Nope, can't find it anywhere. IIRC, I torqued them to either 40 or 47 lbft because that's what most of the other 12x1.25 bolts use.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I originally was going to do, and then I noticed that joint wouldn't rotate anymore....which aparently is normal. I'll just have to install it l00se and tighten to torque with the weight on suspension....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's what I originally was going to do, and then I noticed that joint wouldn't rotate anymore....which aparently is normal. I'll just have to install it l00se and tighten to torque with the weight on suspension....</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what they tell you to do in the book, and once you understand how they work (which I see you do now from the above exchange with MightyMouse), it makes sense. The bushings rotate by flexing, so you want them to be as un-flexed as possible at static height. So in theory, you're supposed to put everything together loose and then torque to final spec with the car on the ground. However...

I could find no way in hell to get a torque wrench on those particular bolts with them installed, much less on the ground. So what I did was put everything together loose, then jack up the knuckle till the car started to come off the jackstand. Then mark where the bushing holder lined up with the UCA. Then pull the UCA out, line up the marks, torque it off the car, and then re-install it (which was not easy).

If anybody has an easier way, I'd love to hear it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Agent Smith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If anybody has an easier way, I'd love to hear it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The easiest way is to buy an arm from the dealer which comes pre-set and you don't have to touch it.

I use a very tall jackall under the lower control arm, and lower the car until the outer tie rod is at the same angle as when it is on the ground. For most cars at stock ride height, this means the tie rod is about level with the ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The easiest way is to buy an arm from the dealer which comes pre-set and you don't have to touch it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure? my uca's came with those bolts loose. all the ones i sold working at the dealer behind the parts counter were the same way.

if you are working on a car that's at stock ride height, there are marks on both the anchor bolt and arm. line those up and then torque to 22lb-ft. obviously this won't work on a lowered car though. i forgoe the torque wrench and use an educated hand on box wrenches with the arms installed in the car and the suspension jacked up.

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are you sure? my uca's came with those bolts loose. all the ones i sold working at the dealer behind the parts counter were the same way.

nate</TD></TR></TABLE>

You sure you guys were selling genuine OEM? The OEM ones are always preset, that is why there is no torque spec in any of the manuals, you are not supposed to screw with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You sure you guys were selling genuine OEM? The OEM ones are always preset, that is why there is no torque spec in any of the manuals, you are not supposed to screw with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My arms aren't OEM

Silly suspension!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The easiest way is to buy an arm from the dealer which comes pre-set and you don't have to touch it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That'd be great if the ones the dealer sold had adjustable camber.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sure you guys were selling genuine OEM? The OEM ones are always preset, that is why there is no torque spec in any of the manuals, you are not supposed to screw with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

um, yes, i'm sure. the FSM i quoted IS the one the dealer uses. it has the torque spec. i'm pretty sure the arms do not come pre-torqued for a variety of reasons that deal with how they are shipped. however, i will admit that i could be wrong. it's been over a year since i was working at the honda dealer so things could have changed or i could be remembering incorrectly. i did work at an aftermarket parts supplier before i worked for honda so i might be getting my chit confused. at any rate, i would still torque them myself. my luck i'd get an arm that was missed at the factory or had a burr that prevented an accurate torque spec. i like my suspension parts to stay on my car.

nate

 

With the 88-91OEM Honda crx/civic arms the bolts are installed ...aftermarket arms they come loose.

 

According to my 1995 Honda 'Civic del Sol' FSM:

22 lb-ft (Page 18-8) - described as "self-locking nut"

22 lb-ft (Page 18-21) - described as "upper arm bolt"