Shit Body Work, Ewww
My buddies got a 90 Black Crx Si, thing was a rust bucket and was given to him for free.
So he fixed all the rust using fiberglass and bondo. On the doors if you look right along you can tell that there are little dips here and there, but the car is only primerred so its dull and it was in very low light.
The car is black and the engine bay and jams are in good comdition, if he paints it black with clearcoat will the little dips go away?
Its just a fun project but he doesnt want those dips to be seen, can barely feel them when you go over it with your hand. Already primerred and ready for paint, just wanna know if its painted black would you be able to tell my look?
Would pearl or metallic help hide the effect?
ANY HELP APPRECIATED
So he fixed all the rust using fiberglass and bondo. On the doors if you look right along you can tell that there are little dips here and there, but the car is only primerred so its dull and it was in very low light.
The car is black and the engine bay and jams are in good comdition, if he paints it black with clearcoat will the little dips go away?
Its just a fun project but he doesnt want those dips to be seen, can barely feel them when you go over it with your hand. Already primerred and ready for paint, just wanna know if its painted black would you be able to tell my look?
Would pearl or metallic help hide the effect?
ANY HELP APPRECIATED
well, he didnt just fiberglass and bondo over the wholes. He cut the rust out completely (most in middle under moulding) and placed 2 layers of fiberglass over the entire door then bondo to smooth. I guess where the holes were, it dipped in some places.
Just wanna know if blacks a nice color to not show that and if pearl or metallic will help or not help
Just wanna know if blacks a nice color to not show that and if pearl or metallic will help or not help
Why wont it last, sanding was done by hand but I think the holes where to problem and even though the fiberglass was clamped I guess its still sagged that tiny bit.
I dont think hell do any more body work unless its just adding more bondo which wont be good for much lol
I heard black was good to hide **** because in the dark theres no way you can tell obviously, Ive never really stared at a black car before
I dont think hell do any more body work unless its just adding more bondo which wont be good for much lol
I heard black was good to hide **** because in the dark theres no way you can tell obviously, Ive never really stared at a black car before
what your friends wants to do is sand down as far down as he can then slap a big chunk of bondo over it, then sand it slowly until he gets the shape just right, sometimes its a matter of just adding more and sanding it down some more.
Bondo is a lot stronger than most people will admit.
Bondo is a lot stronger than most people will admit.
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Oh I no for sure its strong, even after the 2 layers of fiberglass I gave it a nice punch to see if it would hold, I suppose we could do that, bondo isnt expensive
Need to know what black shows though
Need to know what black shows though
didnt notice you were helping in the previous 2 posts, just talking out of your *** because Bondo and fiberglass is strong and cheap, see ya
Might suggest to him to sand off the primer and use a little more bondo
Might suggest to him to sand off the primer and use a little more bondo
Ya for all your years of experience, you dont seem to be giving logical/realistic info.
Obviously its a beater car/ first car and they want to do the work themselves. I did the same on my prelude and it turned out great, I also had some tiny waves you could feel. WHAT COLOR DID I PAINT IT?
BLACK!! Body shop said it would work best. Was 2years ago, forget the outcome, I dont think I could see it. Someone else will clarify. Id say go with a black with metallic, pearl would reflect light and if your body isnt straight then it would look funny right
Obviously its a beater car/ first car and they want to do the work themselves. I did the same on my prelude and it turned out great, I also had some tiny waves you could feel. WHAT COLOR DID I PAINT IT?
BLACK!! Body shop said it would work best. Was 2years ago, forget the outcome, I dont think I could see it. Someone else will clarify. Id say go with a black with metallic, pearl would reflect light and if your body isnt straight then it would look funny right
im sorry but spending over 500 bucks which is about a fraction of the cost of what it would cost to cut and weld in a new piece on a car thats over 10 years is a complete waste of money.
Think about it logically, spend a couple bucks on bondo, rebuild and repair the damage, short of taking a direct impact it will hold for a couple years, and in any case even if it takes an impact your screwed either way cuz itll require body work. As long as you seal the rust there is no reason why the bondo will break loose. The overall cost for a crx is not that much, when your talking about a car that can sell for under 3 grand in completely mint condition then pouring out 1 grand on body work, just seems like a waste to me.
I have extensive body work experience, I have worked and shaped sheetmetal and pouring that much work on a crx just isnt worthwhile to me. I do not own a high end sports car that will double in value as time goes by. I own a 1991 crx si and ive done all the body work myself and im more than happy with the results, i just did my friends 88 crx's body work, and we filled in big holes with some grid metal backing and bondo, I cured the rust with naval jelly, then hit it with rust inhibitor and some primer inhibitor paint. I completely enveloped the old rust spot to seal it from atmosphere and moisture, its completely encased in bondo. It was strong enough to take a pounding, I wouldnt leave such a thin layer that itll crumble from daily driving. Were talking about a car that was mass produced for a few years, somehow i dont think that 15 years from now we'll be discussing the poor value of crx's due to body filler.
just my 2 cents.
You def dont want to use black paint to smoothen it out, use your hands to find the overall shape of the car, your eyes can fool you as far as shaping the fender, your fingers however can tell you more.
Think about it logically, spend a couple bucks on bondo, rebuild and repair the damage, short of taking a direct impact it will hold for a couple years, and in any case even if it takes an impact your screwed either way cuz itll require body work. As long as you seal the rust there is no reason why the bondo will break loose. The overall cost for a crx is not that much, when your talking about a car that can sell for under 3 grand in completely mint condition then pouring out 1 grand on body work, just seems like a waste to me.
I have extensive body work experience, I have worked and shaped sheetmetal and pouring that much work on a crx just isnt worthwhile to me. I do not own a high end sports car that will double in value as time goes by. I own a 1991 crx si and ive done all the body work myself and im more than happy with the results, i just did my friends 88 crx's body work, and we filled in big holes with some grid metal backing and bondo, I cured the rust with naval jelly, then hit it with rust inhibitor and some primer inhibitor paint. I completely enveloped the old rust spot to seal it from atmosphere and moisture, its completely encased in bondo. It was strong enough to take a pounding, I wouldnt leave such a thin layer that itll crumble from daily driving. Were talking about a car that was mass produced for a few years, somehow i dont think that 15 years from now we'll be discussing the poor value of crx's due to body filler.
just my 2 cents.
You def dont want to use black paint to smoothen it out, use your hands to find the overall shape of the car, your eyes can fool you as far as shaping the fender, your fingers however can tell you more.
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DC5Tuner
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jan 18, 2006 08:12 PM




