I spun a bearing in my stock GSR motor from oil starvation. Im not exactly sure which bearing(s) at this point as I have only pulled the oil pan.

I would like to have it resleeved and built up for more boost. What is the likelihood that the block and crank are repairable? A used crank isnt too much but Id like to salvage the block.

 

The block will be fine, see if you can have the crank turned/balanced/micropolished

 

why was it starved of oil?

 

What are the acceptable "limits" to what you can turn a crank?
What exactly should I be looking for when I pull the motor and inspect the crank/bearings? Obviously its going to be all fubared but how fubared is too much?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverCIVIC96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why was it starved of oil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just turned up the boost to 10psi on a stock motor. Motor was kinda old with 70k miles, its a 2000 GSR. Used to burn a little oil NA, I suspect from rings going bad. And I think the boost just made it worse. I noticed when I got on it hard there would be a cloud behind me. I thought it was fuel, but it was oil.

Drove it 300 miles down to Carlisle. Checked oil before I left and it was full. On the way back however it started pinging and then a few miles later ticking. I pulled over to check things out and as I coasted to a stop the fucken worthless oil light came on. I pulled the dip stick and it was smoking and bone dry. I dont know how many miles I drove without any oil but it was probably close to 100 with little or no oil. It musta burned ~4 quarts within 500 miles because there was never any puddles or leaks.

Now that I think about it 10psi wasnt really that fast either. It was street tuned pretty well by me with an AEM EMS and a wideband. I think it was getting serious blow-by and eating my oil.

No oil in downpipe or charge pipe too. I hope my head is ok, car never overheated or anything. And I think my turbo is ok. I can spin it freely with just my finger. That means its ok right? Its a brand new SC34 with 1100 miles on it.

 

How did you know it was spun? Did you notice flakes when you changed your oil? Also do you have an oil pressure gauge that would make you think your oil pressure was low?

 

by the bronze colored shavings, it looks like its mostly bearings.
when you take the crank out look for scars on the journals.

head should be fine, check cam journals

 

Well what else could made that much metal in the oil pan? The engine basically had no oil. Stupid me for not checking the oil before I started the long drive home.

Lesson learned - get an oil gauge, dont depend on the shity oil light.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lesson learned - get an oil gauge, dont depend on the shity oil light.</TD></TR></TABLE>


dummy oil light on= less than 5 psi wich ='s funked

take the motor apart and post some pics to better see whats going on

 

Is it really 5 psi? Why the hell is that threshold so low? Its absolutely worthless! And is there a way to increase that threshold? I was going for a sleeper look with minimal gauges.

 

Oil psi gauge is a must!

 

damm bro I'm sorry to hear

I know from the helms, the oil pressure @ idle should be &gt; 0.7 bar (10 psi) and at 3000 RPM should be 3.5 bar (50 psi)

Maybe a faulty oil pump/oil jets or you were really really low on oil

 

depends which bearings spun
if its a rod bearing, then id get new rod, and crank

if the main bearing spun, than you blcok and crank are both probably messed up