I was thinking of putting a B18C1 in a 89-91 CRX. I know I could get it working, but is it logical. I've heard that the header and oil pan sit way too low so they are easily damaged. Could you even lower the car without major problems? I also read that I would only use the block and head from the C1 and the ECU, harness, axels, etc. would be from the B16. If anyone on here with this engine or even a B18C5 in their 2nd gen Rex could please give me some info and feedback on this I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!

 

I hope you don't get flamed for asking a question that's been asked quite a bit. Most people would use the PR3/PW0 ecus for the dohc vtec setup in the CRX and probably get the Skunk2 intake manifold or I suppose you could just take out the butterflies of the manifold system the GSR has. The only hing you'll ahve to watch for is your hood with the engine. You may want to cut out certain parts of the underskeleton so it doesn't look too bad. Some people will go with after market hoods that raise up like the CRX SiR hoods do. I believe Fiber Images makes a CF hood that can still use the USDM panels but has the JDM hood look.

With any lowered car you will always want to watch out for your oil pan. Even stock engined cars that are lowered can hit the oil pan on speed bumps and miscellaneous road ****.

HTH's.

 

I have a B18C5 motor in my CRX.
i used hasport mounts which are the same for the B16 or any B18 motor
As far as oil pan and header clearance, it is not a problem.
All b18 blocks are taller at the top, not the bottom.
The oil pan is as low as it was when I had a B16.
my CRX is very low, I have 15" rims and there is no gap at the fender.
I have never had a problem with the engine hitting the radius rods. because it just doesn't
Now, the top is another story.
If you put a B18C1 or C5 regardless of what head you use, you will need to
remove the under hood support right over the valve cover in order to get enough clearance. you will have a bout 1/4 inch clearance with a US hood.
I have a JDm front end and it gives about 1 1/4 inch clearance without having to cut the under hood support.
Please be aware that HPC, Hasport and all other mount makers put the engine a bit different in the car so, my information is only relevant if you use Hasport mounts.

 

Spaceballs.... What tranny, ECU, and wiring harness are you using? and are you using the stock intake manifold or an aftermarket one? Thanks A LOT for your info!

 

I am using a Y1 (JDM B16) cable transmission. with 93 GSr axles,
although you can use any 90-93 5 speed teg axles.
I am also using a B16 Ecu, which is fine as long as you get a fuel pressure regulator and a VTEC controller to get the fuel right.
I am using a type R intake manifold.
about the harness, you MUST use the one your CRX came with.
My CRX was a DX so I had to convert it to MPFi then add the 4 wires for PR3 ECU conversion.


[Modified by Spaceballs the lunch box, 3:20 AM 11/8/2001]

 

hey i have a very similar swap as spaceballs...but with the B18C instead...hasport mounts...CRX DX...90-93 teg axles...i have a reprogramed p28 ecu(type r specs.)...i had too cut out the supports under the hood and the pan looks to have plenty of clearence...i suggest this swap...i love how it pulls...

 

i thought about this swap in my 91 Si,,i didnt think it was logical,i eventually turbocharged my D,here's my reasons
1.has sport and all those bolt in kits only use 3 mounts out of the 4 that the EF has...now think about this..the B18C1 uses 5 when its in its orginal car,,now your only gonna use 3!?!
2 cost..thousands more esp if your paying for labor..when i added it all up..it was either a stock 170hp B18C with bolt ons or a built 300+hp turbocharged D..that choice was easy for me
3 all those extra parts you gotta get and waste time looking for...trans,axles,ecu,harness
4 axle set-up...the B series drivers side axle set-up,with that half shaft and bearing..are more prone to fail.
5 you cant get the good trannies like you can if you had a hydro clutch
6 hood clearance will be a issue with stock hood
7 front crossmember might not clear certain headers
most of the swaps ive see are hack jobs...so i give this swap

personally the only way i want a B in a EF..would be to buy a JDM EF SiR

or sell the EF and Buy an EG and mount the B correctly and easier

 

Yeah, it is a crazy *** swap, but man it would be sick. I don't even want to think about the turbo charging the stock motor, i am gifted with the power of turbo everyday. I drive a '91 Toyota MR2 Turbo. The reason I'm getting a CRX is for a winter/everday driver. As hard as I'm going to have to try, I wanna keep the Honda NA.

 

with hcp you use 4 mounts you just have to re drill a hole in the crossmember to put the other mount maybe not a mount but stabilizer but it works. we will see if it will hold when i put jun 3's and a type r head no hood clearance problems and is the place racing front cross member any good i might want it so i can put a real header in.